A fair fashion deal for larger women

Press, Volume CX, Issue 32425, 12 October 1970, Page 6

A fair fashion deal for larger women

(By

NORMAN HARTNELL)

I love making dresses for outsize women. I have always said so. It is nicer playing about with loads of fabric, rather than having to skimp one’s ideas with a slip of a mini dress for a skinny size 10. Rossano Brazzi, the handsome Italian film star, has an outsize wife, and will not let her slim—he likes her; that way. Barbara Goalen used to say I that when she felt too hippy she never stood up, and always slipped behind a table, so that nobody noticed. Hattie Jacques would not ■ get any more film parts ifi she were too slim. All these outsizes are happy that way —and why not? A fair deal Now at last larger women are beginning to get fair deal from fashion. There is even a beauty contest held annually only for women whose hips are more than 44in. I There is also a "large girls’ I club,” and if you join it (free) I you get regular clothes catalogues. But there are certain things to remember if you are anxious to look as well as you can and you are the opposite of Twiggy.

The first thing is do not try to look like Twiggy. It is more reasonable to model yourself on Elizabeth Taylor, who has definitely proved that large women can still look lovely—and sexy. The next thing, to my mind, is to show off your good points: face, shoulders, and neck, for example. Make up extra well, wear face-framing hats, and chunky jewellery. At night, wear low-cut dresses. You can take it—your shoulders are magnificent, whereas thin women dare not show their salt cellars.

Wear large jewellery, carry large handbags, attract attention to your face and hair. Choose a becoming hairstyle, wear bright lipstick and eyeshadow. That way, your face become a focus of attention, not your hipline. The midi is fantastically flattering to your shape, and so wear it. If you fancy a trouser suit, choose a mini dress or tunic top, not a jacket.

The long, lean line of a finger-tip sleeveless coat, worn over, say, a man’s shirt will flatter you. Pinafore dresses suit the plump

girl. So do high-waisted dresses, with a seam under the bust. If you have no waist, never wear a belt, try shirt-waisters. shifts and high-waisted styles instead. Multi-toned silky tunic tops with long sleeves are flattering when worn with black trousers, but if you have a turn, for goodness sake wear a girdle, or. the silky top will cling. I could not agree more with Harvey Silver, directoi of a famous outsize dress house, who says: "Women should be as nature intended them to be—curvy and womanly.”

I At last “outsizes” are not fashion outsiders any more, i But then in my salon they never have been. London trends Tights, stockings and socks are getting very trendy. The latest person to jump on the bandwaggon with switchedon footwear is, of course. Mary Quant. One pair of knee-highs i with turn-down cuffs is called “sweet corn,” because of its pattern of “whole kernel" holes. Another Mary Quant masterstroke is tights—in colours like lilac, aubergine, and fuchsia—with three hearts down near the ankle.