Midi Length Dominant

Press, Volume CX, Issue 32395, 7 September 1970, Page 2

Midi Length Dominant

(By NORMAN HARTNELL) LONDON. The fashion message in Britain this autumn seems to be short, sweet, and expensive: midi for everything. Midi hemlines as often as possible, a midi coat, a gypsy midi or maxi party dress, plenty of gypsy headscarves, and a pair or two of 1940 ankle-strap shoes—that is what your wardrobe must contain if you want to be up-to-date in the coming months. And all these things, as you well know, are not cheap. On the other hand, you can, if you are clever, get by with a small number of basic clothes, and ring the changes by adding or subtracting accessories. The midi dresses remind me of Renaissance portraits. You remember the wearer, not the dress. So, do not be afraid to wear the same sombre coloured, printed midi on Monday, Thursday and Saturday —but dress it up differently each time. My basic list of clothes for next season's wardrobe includes a gypsy midi or maxi for parties, a billowing, printed wool midi for daytime, and a plain dress with important sixteenth century sleeves (very trendy right now). “Layered Look” The “layered look" is important when it comes to building up accessories. That printed wool midi, for instance, will need a sleeveless jerkin, preferably in plain wool.

By all means buy a skirt in geometric tweed, and a flowered shirt, and wear the jerkin over these too. By rights, every autumn wardrobe should include a French-inspired knickerbocker suit If however, knickerbockers do not suit you, you can wear a knitted trouser-suit with a sleeveless coat or tunic over the pants instead of last season’s jacket Colours are expected to be aubergine, violet scarlet, peat brown, terracotta, forest green, saffron, and cloud blue.

Clients often ask me what length the midi should be, and I tell them anywhere that suits them from below the knee to anklebone. This is particularly important when wearing the “medi midi,” or mediaeval midi, a sort of alternative to the Renaissance midi. Wardrobe So my advocated wardrobe i looks something like this: — Party gypsy midi or maxi dress. Printed wool day ’midi dress. Geometric midi skirt. Knickerbocker suit or handknit trouser suit.

Two (at least) colourful igypsy headscarves. Two pairs (at least) 1940 ankle strap shoes. One pair cross-laced boots. Plain day dress with fancy sleeves. Sleeveless jerkin. Flowered shirt. If a gypsy dress does not suit you, you might prefer a “safe” black dress in velvet embossed chiffon with leg o’ mutton sleeves.

If a printed, floaty midi does not appeal to you for daytime then try a wool-worsted “restaurant suit” with a longsleeved, mock-snakeskin blouse. The jacket must be bolero style, and the skirt should have a passementerie embroidery cummerbund. Try Cardigan If you dislike jerkins, try a knee-length cardigan in Shetland knit instead. They look grand over pants too, or can be worn over a dress as a coat.

Incidentally, if you cannot afford a midi overcoat, remember that midis take to jackets like ducks to water.

Stockings of tapestry, mesh and crochet will, I predict, be the most fashionable, but if this is too extreme for you, [try new colours in tights like I burgundy, lavender, olive,

mahogany, orange or buttermilk.

Teach yourself to mix or match your wardrobe clothes. Knee-socks save money if you are in a midi—and who’s to know?

For winter evenings at home there is a new unisex fashion of which I heartily approve.

Men and women are now wearing what used to be called smoking jackets, but are now “at home" jackets. They are rather piratical in flavour and are worn open, so that they look almost slashed to the waist. For an exclusive look, look for a smoking jacket in silk, dull satin or brocade, and trim with an attractive co-ordinat-ing braid. Advantages It is true that certain clothes—shirts, for example, and bowler hats, not to mention trousers —look good on both sexes. There is another, strictly practical advantage, to “him and her” patterns. Make one and it is twice as quick to make up the same style again. Plan your pattern lay-outs carefully, and you will be able to save oii fabric yardages too. How do you persuade a conventional man to wear a slashed silk smoking jacket? Perhaps you could start him off in a simple kimono towelling bathrobe. Once he likes this—and he will—make a twin robe for yourself. The same paper pattern will later adapt easily for a short smoking jacket for each of you: this time in silk.