Norman Hartnell Says:— THE MAXI-SKIRT IS DEAD

Press, Volume CIX, Issue 31922, 25 February 1969, Page 3

Norman Hartnell Says:— THE MAXI-SKIRT IS DEAD

LONDON. We have had a death in the fashion industry, but I am afraid there will not be any mourners. After a long illness, the maxi-skirt has finally passed away, and I can only describe it as a happy release for us all.

I never particularly liked the style and I could not see the point of it in today’s progressive society, except as a gimmick: 1968 was the year that would make or break the maxi-skirt, and it Anally broke it

Although it was primarily a winter fashion, none of the major countries paid it much attention in their winter clothes collections. I know I did not.

The trouser-suit delivered the final karate chop to the already groggy maxi-skirt and I reckon that is the last we will see of this ungainly garment as a major fashion contender. Trouser-suits, on the other hand, are at least logical and practicable, although, as you know, I am not mad about them either. I think that the old saw about a dress being like a wedding speech still rings true. It should be long enough to cover the subject, but short enough to arouse interest. Hemline Battle The battle of the hem-lines raged throughout 1968, and there seem no signs that the war will be over in 1969. In certain maisons de couture in Paris, hems went up. while in others they went down. In Italy, hems merely swirled. A cowardly, but pretty, way out of the controversy. In London, designers like myself were accused of sitting on lhe fence, as we poised our hem-lines mainly mid-knee.

Desperate, ready-to-wear houses started making clothes in mini, midi and maxilengths to please everybody Furriers even produced coats with rip-off hems, so that in two ticks your ponyskin could be maxi, to midi, to mini.

But all to precious little avail. The only maxis that had any real success had been maxi-culottes, or, in other words, trouser-suits.

Had maxis been taken up seriously by Royalty, by film

stars, or by the teen-agers, I dare say they might have been prolific by now. Early Opposition But, from the start, women did not really like maxis—and men positively loathed them. Of course, films like “Bonnie and Clyde” brought a temporary maxi-boom, but the vogue seems to have died when the film finished its general run.

Today, you will see leather coats a 1a Zhivago with long hems, and a few dresses, but, basically, this is one decision you, the public, have made: no maxis.

Despite attempts of publicity men, and a whole army of fashion designers and beauticians, the woman of the world said, firmly but politely: “Thank you very much — but not today ...”

Indeed, the public have been having great fun with hem-lines, while couturiers and designers watch them anxiously to try to determine which length the woman in the street will favour. The trouble is that the woman in the street favours every length. Walk down any street and you will see hems starting at eight inches above the knee, and hems hitting the lower leg at four inches below the calf . . . and all the hem lengths in between. Anything Goes Anything goes, in the hemline battle of 1969, because nobody has won yet. The teen-agers want skirts as mini as possible. The midtwenties and mid-thirties choose hems from six inches above the knee to two inches below, and many early thirties settle for a safe flutter around the actual knee-cap.

Just why has the maxi been such a flop? In 1947, my late friend, Christian Dior, introduced a sort of maxi-dress called the New Look. That was 22 years ago, and women the world over queued to buy it.

This was because, psychologically, it appeared . at the right time. After years of utility clothes, women wanted something rather lavish, with masses of material floating round their legs. But, when maxis were introduced a couple of years ago, they were ill-timed. Women always want something new but they did not, it seems, want maxis. They wanted trouser-suits, instead. Trouser-suits are the sworn enemy of maxi skirts—what is more, trouser-suits have killed maxis. I have heard it said that fashion is dictated by climate, social status and desire to attract the opposite sex. Social status is not easily discovered from a glance at

clothing today. The millionaire in his baggy garden pants is happy that way: and the secretary in her excellent off-the-peg suit needs a connoisseur to pronounce her suit either “bespoke” or ready-made. Whereas, up until the French Revolution, the “quality” always wore more splendid clothes than anyone else.

Only the desire to attract the opposite sex still rings true. And women will always want to dress attractively in order to do this.

Which, since men do not not like them hiding their legs, obviates the maxi. It should obviate the trousersuit, too. But if you look at some of the slinky, semitransparent trouser-suits

Wilted Vegetables.—You can often revive wilted vegetables (provided they are not too far gone) by soaking in cold water for half an hour and then hanging up, in a draught, in a wire salad basket or clean cloth.

Keep This Evening Free! February 26th PLUNKET SOCIETY Benefit Preview of THE PAJAMA GAME, THE PAJAMA GAME, THE PAJAMA GAME, THE PAJAMA GAME, Theatre Royal, 8.30 p.m. Theatre Royal, 8.30 p.m. In the presence of our National Patron, the GovernorGeneral and Lady Porritt. Tickets available Plunket Rooms, Oxford Terrace or D.1.C., S 3, 82, $l. Bookings D.I.C. Dress Formal. —Advt.

round, you will quickly understand why it does not. Meanwhile, all the new spring clothes I have seen come in every conceivable hem-length, apart from maxi. That fashion, I would say, is now beyond human help, and I can not say I am sorry. Cosmetics For Camouflage Beauty problems sometimes go deeper than mere where-to-buy problems. Often, I receive letters from women with facial blemishes, like acne, small scars, or birthmarks. The answer here is what has become known as cosmetic camouflage.

In Britain, for instance, the Government have just appointed their first Health Service consultant in cosmetic camouflage, and I consider this an enormous step forward. Let us hope it is only the first. She is Mrs Doreen Savage, who for many years has successfully taught people how to hide some blemish or other —probably very minor—but which can play havoc with a person’s self-confidence.