Pressing Gives The Final Professional Finish

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31680, 16 May 1968, Page 10

Pressing Gives The Final Professional Finish

Pressing with steam is generally essential for best results, and this can be achieved by a steam iron with a good head of steam, or a damp press cloth. But remember, a damp cloth needs to be renewed frequently, and “damp” does not mean “wet.” For the right amount of water in the damp cloth, first fold in half, then fold again in thirds. Put one-third in water, then fold it between the two dry thirds and wring the cloth. The dampness will distribute itself evenly.

Pressing Wool. Whether using steam or dry iron, wool is generally pressed against wool. Moderate temperature is set for a dry iron.

To prevent marks on the outside of a garment when seams are pressed open, press on a seam roll. A wooden rolling pin makes an ideal seam roll. Cover it tightly with several layers of wool, making sure the covers do not slip. Ideally, use light or dark wool for the final cover, according to the fabric you are pressing.

Simplify the matching of plaids or stripes at seam lines by pressing under the seam allowance of one of the sides to be matched. On the right side of the other piece, mark the seam with chalk. Place the pressed-under edge along the chalked seamline and pin or slip-baste the two pieces together and stitch.

On the Wrong Side. Place a wool cloth on the ironing board with the wool garment over it, wrong side up, and steam press. If using an iron, place dampened press cloth over the garment

Pressing on the Right Side. Place a dry wool cloth over the garment when using a steam iron. Cover the wool cloth with a damp cotton cloth if you are using a dry iron. When only one of two seams to be joined needs to be eased, as in the two-piece sleeve of a jacket, steam press the ease as much as possible before joining the seams. The ease in the seam will be less noticeable in the finished garment If the ease from the top of a sleeve needs pressing out, use only the tip of the iron.

When both seam allowances are to be pressed in the same direction, press the seam open first, then in the designated direction. This process ensures a clean, sharp seam line on the outside.

Press each seam before it is crossed by another one. For pressing areas needing shaping, such as curved darts or seams, use a tailor’s “ham” or cushion. Because of its ham-like shape, it can be used in many garment areas and simplifies difficult pressing.