ADVANCE OF THE 'TOTAL LOOK’

Press, Volume CVII, Issue 31412, 4 July 1967, Page 3

ADVANCE OF THE 'TOTAL LOOK’

(Reprinted from “Newsweek” by arrangement)

Even for the fairest figure, the mini craze presents a maxi problem.

Nothing it seems, can neutralise the effectiveness of a thigh-high hemline more insidiously than sensible shoes, neutral stockings, a nondescript coat or just any hat Accordingly, the biggest news at New York City’s fall showings last week was less in dress than in its wrappings and trappings—all in the name of the “total look.” Short skirts are still the dernier cri, but never without co-ordinating tights, patterned stockings or soft over-the-knee boots which make a woman look all of a piece. The new, featherweight boots from the New York shoe designers David Evins and Beth Levine, which hook on to garters or just cling to the leg, neatly double as camouflage for the calfheavy and insulation for the frost bite-prone.

Both types should also appreciate the new calf-length “midi” coats and capes. The coats, which are slimly cut and often belted either high or low, come in furs ranging from mink to jaguar and in wools that are sometimes collared and cuffed in fox for a Dr Zhivago effect The capes vary from, simple shoulder coverings to dressy,

waist-length capelets, to long, sweeping cloaks reminiscent of Dracula’s daughter. Marquis de Sade fans will probably appreciate Jacques Tiffeau’s ensemble of high leather boots, black leather dress and wide-brimmed cha-

peau, while Zorro lovers should recognise something in Pauline Trigere’s black poncho studded with rhinestones. Dior-New York has a fitted, black velvet cape-coat, and, for soggy weather, Bill Blass

offers a swashbuckling, midi raincape which should intimidate the most intrepid drop of water. When Dior’s Marc Bohan introduced midi coats In Paris last year, most women seemed too taken with short hem-

lines to want to hide them. “I think chic women will be ready to wear longer coats this fall,” says Saks Fifth Avenue buyer Barbara Muller, “but not dresses— they’re too comfortable short.” In effect, the midi and the

mini are complementary weapons. A mini-skirted lass can now appear mysteriously covered up on the street and then, upon decoating, set off almost as many shock waves as Tempest Storm.