Winter Tasks Will Keep Gardeners Busy

Press, Volume CVII, Issue 31385, 2 June 1967, Page 6

Winter Tasks Will Keep Gardeners Busy

Growth waa exceptionally alow thle autumn, a feature which was especially noticeable in newlysown lawns. Lack of rain was a contributing factor. Another noticeable feature has been the rapidity with which soils lost their warmth after the initial early frosts, a most definite growth retardant. So now it’s just a matter of waiting for the spring to arrive before any real plant movement can be expected.

Shorter days and seemingly longer nights, and often less favourable weather, preclude much garden activity, if an excuse is needed. However, there are countless tasks which are very often put off for yet another day, and so remain undone or cause loss and delay, when major activities are resumed in a few months. Tasks such as com-post-making, bulb, vegetable and fruit storage inspection, construction and repair work are but a few jobs which can be attended to. The bulk of ornamental and fruiting trees and shrubs together with many other horticultural lines will be on sale this month, and this affords the opportunity to inspect stock and to begin planting. VEGETABLE GARDEN

Soil warming by means of cloches or similar structures is to be recommended for early sowings of such vegetables as lettuces and cabbage. The covers should be placed over the intended area to be sown several weeks beforehand to ge'. the g.eatest benefit from them. Care should be taken to insulate the edges and ends.

Prevailing conditions have been suitable for digging and vacant areas could thus be readily turned over. Any green crop which has attained 12in to 15in should be dug in, ertainly not allowed to flower, thus giving it a chance to rot before the beginning of spring sowing and planting. A little lime and sulphate of ammonia sprinkled in the trench as the digging proceeds will help to speed up decomposition. Preparations may begin for the planting of both asparagus and rhubarb. As both these vegetables are long-term crops, occupying the same piece of

ground for a considerably longer period than any others, thorough preparation is a necessary and rewarding procedure. Perennial weed removal, deep digging forking over and thorough incorporation of organic matter is advisable. Drainage, is most essential for asparagus beds but rhubarb is more tolerant of moisture. However, neither will put up with water-logged conditions for long. Leeks provide a most valuable and nutritious addition to the menu and at this time of the year it should be possible to get an indication of the crop potential. In many gardens some will already have been harvested, bu* as they are a hardy vegetable capable of withstanding heavy frosts and as considerable growth can still be expected they need not be consumed too quickly. Keep them weed free and if necessary a side dressing of well decomposed fowl manure and superphosphate can be given to boost them along. On the other hand, winter brassicas need careful treatment in this respect as excessive use of nitrogenous fertiliser can cause soft tissue development which is extremely vulnerable to frost damage. A common mistake with broccoli or winter cauliflower is the belief that all will grow into large specimens and in consequence as the curds become exposed they are covered by breaking ah outside leaf over them. Thus they are left until, weekj later, instead of a large end product there is only a rather open, brown-looking curd to be seen. Once the curds become exposed, however big or small, they should be cut within a week, but breaking a leaf or two over them for this period will keep the frost at bay. Brussels sprouts should be carefully picked beginning with the lowest ones and using a sharp knife or scissors as this often allows the formation of a second crop to emerge from the axils. Only a few should be taken from each plant at any particular time. Some of the lower leaves can be removed in the process and the terminal bud pinched out where this has not already been done. Removal of side shoots from celeriac should now

cease and soil can be slightly drawn up around the swelling bulbous roots. As with celery, leaf spot can prove most troublesome and spread rapidly if not checked. A fungicide such as captan, zineb or Bordeaux mixture will afford control if applied early enough. FRUIT SECTION There are two most important tasks ahead in this department They concern the planting of new fruiting stock and the pruning of most fruitbearing subjects. Planting is best done when the soil is not too wet. Wet soil is difficult to deal with, making for messy work and resulting in packed ground which impedes drainage. Newly-purchased stock cannot always be planted straight away for one reason or another. Do not leave them lying in the corner but stand in water, preferably after the wrappings have been removed.

Pruning of fruiting subjects is beneficial in a number of ways—the whys and wherefores of which will be dealt' with in the coming weeks. It is also necessary to attend to new subjects in this respect, a factor frequently overlooked. Irrespective of the kind of fruit the job must be done properly, and one must know something of the characteristics of the tree, cane or bush, as not all have the same fruiting habits. Tools used in the operation must, of course, be Sharp. FLOWER SECTION

Pruning of ornamentals can also commence where applicable. As with fruiting subjects, a knowledge of their habits is important before one begins the job. It is a simple matter to saw off even a big limb but it may take a decade or even more to replace it, if ever. In the process of pruning don’t forget the climbers such as wisteria and clematis, for they also need attention. Herbaceous perennials such as aster, tritomas and phlox may be lifted, divided and replanted. Dahlias which have not yet been lifted can still be taken up and stored in a frost-free place such as under a hedge or house. Agapanthus are often forbotten once they have been planted and then they gradu-

ally. deteriorate. As a rule they can be lef* for a good number of years undisturbed and when they should be divided is a personal judgment. Lifting and dividing now can rejuvenate them to provide a good display in summer, although lifting can be done almost any time of the year providing care and efficiency are exercised.

Root cuttings can be taken now from a variety of plants such as perennial anchusa, Rhus and crat apples growing on their own roots. Healthy stock only must be used and the method consists of taking pencil-thick roots about 6in long to which are attached fibrous roots ifl possible. These should be selected from outward growths arising from the main roots and placed in a medium of sand and soil (2:1) in a more or less verticle position. Many plants will, during pruning, yield good material from which hard wood cuttings can be made. These include abutilons, hebes, fuchsias and hydrangeas. Any plants purchased should be unwrapped immediately and either heeled in or stood in a tub of water until ready for planting. Before planting the root system should be examined and any damage or excessively long roots cut off or shortened. Then spread the rqots out in the planting hole and back fill the soil, firming constantly to avoid leaving air pockets. Stake if necessary.

Many firms will have issued their latest catalogues now. These are generally available free or for a very nominal charge, often refunded with a minimum purchase. Persual often brings to one’s notice a particular plant which could well enhance the garden display, and also provides the opportunity to find out about new releases. It is a good way of furthering one’s knowledge Finally don't fofget that during winter uncleaned tools will quickly rust It is a wise policy to scrape, clean whatever equipment has been used immediately after completion of the task and wipe it over with an oily rag.