Gardeners’ Queries

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31332, 31 March 1967, Page 7

Gardeners’ Queries

Will you kindly advise me: (1) when kumi is ready for eating; (2)

what pruning should I give my lasiandra? Last year I cut it right down after flowering. L.B. (Woodend)

The best time for harvesting kumi for immediate use seems to be just before commencement of pronounced yellow stripping and before the skin has really hardened. Of course for storage they must be harvested only after this stage has been reached. In the pruning of lasiandra (Tibouchina) your treatment is exceptionally drastic. In a coastal environment I have grown these plants without ever resorting to more than superficial pruning, and they have continued to maintain shape and blossom to the point when one just would not believe that the effort could be sustained. It is recommended that no more than annual pruning to maintain shape be carried out. We have a long drive tn to our garage bordered by a bed planted with shrubs. Unfortunately it also contains every weed known to man! In particular twitch and convolvulus have twined themselves securely round the roots of the shrubs and there are several well-establish-ed docks comfortably ensconced in their shelter. Is there any weedicide with which the weeds eould be eradicated without killing the shrubs? The only plants which matter besides the shrubs are spring bulbs, and I could probably dig up and remove quite a number of these before spraying. Another query: you mentioned in answer to another inquirer the advisability of feeding fruit trees. Could you sometime, give more details, such as type of fertiliser and quantity, and whether a maximum quantity would be applied all in one go. Also would one use the same fertiliser for a vine now in its third year and for roses? —RJ. (Christchurch) Having seen quite a number

of. similarly well infested shrubberies I find it not difficult to visualise your problem, for such it is and a most difficult one to overcome. There is absolutely no overall spray coverage which will effectively eradicate the weeds without damaging the shrubs in the process under prevailing circumstances. The best plan is to clean up the area by hand using a dutch hoe to cut the weeds off at ground level and then carefully spot treat individual plants with a paint brush or one of the spring loaded guns sold for a similar purpose, using a strong solution of weedazol TL. The fertiliser treatment for fruit trees and roses will be dealt with fully at the appropriate time of the year which is just before bud movement in early spring. Plants differ in their requirements both in amounts and type of nutrients needed. Regarding the disease of your nerium examination has failed to produce identifiable symptoms although the presence of a fungus disease is not excluded. At this stage of the season little can be done and it is suggested to wait for regrowth next season to see whether similar trouble recurs.

I have a Chilean firebush planted last winter. I am afraid I put superphosphate around it last spring and have learnt since that no manure should be given to it The leaves are becoming very yellow and I am wondering whether there is anything I can do to help it become green and healthy again. I enclose a leaf of the plant—Reader (South Westland).

Yes, the Chilean firebush, Embothrium coccineum, is ultra sensitive to fertilisers which usually prove fatal to it There is nothing that can be done to save it now. This plant resents fertilisers including lime and does best in peaty or humus enriched soil tending on the acid side. Could you please tell me suitable plants to grow in tubs each side of a porch facing south, where plants grown in the ground would inter-

fere with drainage. Also what tub plants could be grown for the entrance facing north in an exposed position? I would also like to know depth and diameter of the tubs to suit these plants.— Tubby (Doyleston).

For the southern side of the house, hydrangeas, aucubas, flaxes, schefflera and viburnum japonicum are but some suitable plants which could be used. Golden privet Cotoneaster harrovianus and Cotoneaster cornubia and others, yews, Grisolinia littoralis variegata and Euonymus japonicus variegatus are some examples of plants for exposed northern positions. Enclosed our peperomia plant which seems to have given life away. We had it growing in a 4in pot in good soil. No manures have been given it and it has been regularly watered. However it seemed to develop a sickly look especially down tiie stem, then seemed to wilt and die. Cause and cure would be appreciated.—lnquirer (Christchurch).

Peperomias are very sensitive to water and excess can cause the development of stem and root pots which in fact have advanced to such a stage on your plant that it has died. These plants are one of the few house plants which should not be watered regularly. Allow the soil to get on the dry side before doing so. Many of my Delicious apples, which are only just ripening, have stained centres though there are some where this has extended further. These all tend to be sweeter. What is the cause and should something be done about it?— W.D. (Christchurch). The symptoms are those of a physiological disease, watery core, to which some varieties such as Delicious are more susceptible. Apples grown on the shady side of the tree seem to suffer less from it There is as yet no known cure.