Propagating Lilies By Scaling

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31291, 10 February 1967, Page 6

Propagating Lilies By Scaling

Most lilies will have ceased flowering now. Propagation, vegetatively, can be done in several ways: by means of bulblets, by splitting up the bulb clusters of established bulbs, or by scaling. It is the latter method which will be described here.

Scaling is a much preferred method for lily propagation than seed, because by this means both species and named varieties can be handled. Seed raising, which is not a vegetative form of propagation anyway, is restricted to species only.

The first essential concerning vegetative propagation, and this applies to all plants including lilies, is to choose only healthy plants. In recent years lilies have been found very prone to infection by virus disease and any plants showing suspicious symptoms should be discarded, as infection is inevitable. Mottled or yellow streaked foliage is usually indicative of virus. When flowering has finished, or at any time during the dormant season, bulbs should be lifted and the outer scales removed. The number removed will be governed by the size of the bulb but it is usual to remove two or three

rows. More can be removed from larger bulbs without harming them. Excessive removal, however, will impair flowering in the forthcoming season.

As soon as the scales have been removed the bulb should be replanted without delay to avoid drying out. The propagating medium should preferably consist of equal parts of peat, leaf mould or old sawdust and sharp sand, and the mixture moistened but not saturated. Containers to hold the scales and medium can be pots or boxes of suitable size, depending on the number of scales taken. Whatever is used drain, age is an important provision and should not be overlooked. To induce swifter and greater bulblet formation and reduce the incidence of disease, scales should be dipped into an equal mixture of fungicide such as sulphur and rooting hormone, the type used for soft wood cuttings.

Scales should then be Inserted for half their depth into the rooting medium, but care should be taken to ensure that they are put in the right way up. After they have all been planted cover them completely with sphagnum moss and water thoroughly.

Place container in a cool, shady place, the cooler the better at this time of the year. Seclusion or partial exclusion of light is recommended at at least until the formation of the bulblets has taken place. Avoid overwatering the scales at all times and prevent excessive condensation such as would occur if the box was covered with glass or polythene, as these conditions are likely to cause the scales to rot.

Bulblet formation on the scales varies according to variety and prevailing conditions, but they should be apparent after about six weeks.

When roots have formed on each bulblet they can be detached and potted separately if so desired.

They may also be lined out in a shady part of the garden; while this can be done in the autumn preference is generally for leaving them in their pots or boxes until the spring. The number of bulblets which form to each scale again tend to vary, but it is rarely less than two. Flowering can be expected when the bulbs are about three years old, but it is not uncommon for flowers to appear after two years.