THE HARDY AMIES LOOK

Press, Volume CV, Issue 31016, 23 March 1966, Page 15

THE HARDY AMIES LOOK

From British line to international look—this is

the major step taken by

Hardy Amies

in designing his

men s wear collection for 1966.

The full range of clothes designed by Hardy Amies this year is international both in its styling and in its breadth of choice of styles, colour and pattern.

This collection of designs for 1966 consolidates many points of style that have in the past been put forward either as feelers or trend-setters. It confirms much of the more forward thinking that has marked previous Hardy Amies’

men s wear collectio This very consolidation opens up a far wider variety of style and colour in British men's clothes than has been known for some time past The development of design, carefully planned by Hardy Amies over the last five years, has now reached a vintage year, in which the choice is wider and the style leadership is more authoritative and more firmly established than ever. Five years ago, when Hardy Amies first became a consultant designer in menswear, he launched his “British Line” for men, in a deliberate move to reestablish a distinctly British flavour in the styling of men’s clothes. Basically this was a line that tapered continuously down from broad, naturallysloping shoulders, full chest and close-fitting hips, to slim trousers with narrow ends uncluttered by turnups, and slanting over the shoe. Since that time, the line has been developed, and varying style features have been introduced, so that while its basic framework has been retained, its application has become wider and more flexible. Shorter jacket length, narrower shaped trousers, square-cut jackets, higher fastening four-button jackets and coats with short, ultra slim lapels are some of the style variations that have

□ns. i been introduced in the past, ■ all strengthening and in- . creasing the trend towards international appeal. Now, for 1966, Hardy > Amies goes truly inter- , national, both in the wide choice of styles that he offers, and in the specific line of the suit and coat In both, the main emphasis of design appeal is on the younger man, because to quote Hardy Amies: “In fashion today there are no old men. only the young and the dead.” The essence of the Hardy Amies international look in suits is a longish jacket ■ which can be either loose and boxy or fitted and waisted, with a high fastening to emphasise its slimness which is further accentuated by the now thoroughly established extraslim shaped trouser. This is still basically a British line. What has really happened is that under British leadership and influence, the international look in menswear has become British. Coats, in order to set off the tall, slim, long legged look of the suit are widecut and ultra-short. The knee-length overcoat of last year has shortened still further to the mini-coat thigh-length, wide-skirted, in single and double-breasted Raglan and Chester styles. And confirming one of his most important trendsetters of last year, Hardy Amies introduces the minicoat in fur. There are single

and double-breasted minicoats in black Orlon fur and brown mohair/Dynel fur, giving the semblance of real fur coats, chunky and rough textured.

The raincoat the most drab of men’s garments, also confirms and develops a trend set last year when it was shortened to the thighlength rain-cape. This has now taken on a new concept in colourful checks. Widecut rain-capes, with flap breast pockets and Continental half-belt backs, all in large or small checks, or in brilliant plain colours such as burgundy, royal blue, and lovat, all lend colour and style to the international appeal of the collection.

Checks are featured too in coats and suits that take the revival of colour in men’s clothes yet another step forward. Here Hardy Amies introduces racing checks, big bold checks that present a new concept in pattern blends, toning coat with suit in an eye-catching harmony that will lend its own particular flavour to the 1966 men’s fashion scene. The motoring coat, introduced by Hardy Amies five years ago, and 'popular as a short coat ever since, now borrows from this international trend, and adopts the round, ghillie collar.

slant pockets, and high buttoning that all take their cue from the abbreviated international style. Single and double-breasted styles are shown in smooth colourful, blue or brown Llama wool.

For good mixture, chalk stripes are back for ultraformal suiting. Camel-colour, in wool coats and stretch slacks, is back in a variety of styles, including a short motoring coat with vertical breast pockets and wide, vented skirt, a five-button ghillie-collared jacket and a four-button raglanshouldered sweater jacket shown with stretch sandcoloured trousers tucked into high boots.

These ultra close-fitting trousers worn inside boots are again a confirmation of one of'Hardy Amies’ trendsetters of last year.

Double-breasted suits are strongly in evidence. With either a shortish, box-cut jacket or with a longskirted, look, the double-breasted is very much part and parcel of the Hardy Amies International look with a British flavour.

This look is a blend of formality and informality in menswear, in which the informal takes precedence and sets the tone. Thus in party wear, the most important development is seen in Hardy Amies’ “Ad-Lib” suit—not so much a suit, more a way of life.

It is a three-piece suit with a new style waistcoat, tailored to fit, with a cloth back, and full-width shoulders. The Ad Lib concept is that, when the semiformal party starts to relax, you can dispense with the jacket and still be welldressed in your waistcoat — or more correctly, your sleeveless under-jacket.

Here too the Ad Lib suit confirms last year’s trendsetting style of close-fitting slacks worn inside high boots—-slacks that dispense with side pockets, too, in the interests of a cleaner line, with cash pockets provided at the front.

national menswear l J

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