GROWING DAFFODILS

Press, Volume CV, Issue 31000, 4 March 1966, Page 9

GROWING DAFFODILS

Daffodils, or, to be more exact from a botanical point of view, narcissi, can be associated with the arrival of spring perhaps more than almost any other flowering plant. The profusion of blooms under the trees in such places as Hagley park is a fine sight. With the exception of one or two species which are autumn flowering, most narcissi open in spring. Most are at home wherever planted. Infinite range of colour, size, shape and scent, as well as adaptability, makes this a flowering plant which seems unlikely to lose its popularity. Continued breeding and improvement of varieties and the ease with which they can be hybridised ensures that they will always remain popular and in demand. Although they will grow in most types of soil they are intolerant of bad drainage,

which will often induce attacks by fusarian disease. The best type of ground is a cool loamy soil to which has been added leaf mould, but as it is rarely possible to provide both of these the humus content should always be maintained at a satisfactory level. No fresh manure should be given at any time but bulbs tolerate both acid conditions and lime although extremes should be avoided. After the usual thorough preparation of the ground, a task which always pays dividends, a fertiliser dressing of 2:1 of blood and bone and sulphate of potash can be raked in at the rate of four ounces a square yard. This mixture and rate can also be used for subsequent topdressing where the bulbs will be left in the ground.

The planting season for narcissi is from March until May, but it will be found that the earlier they are planted the better the flowers. April is the latest month that I would recommend. Late planting frequently causes short foliage which comes above the flower. Depth of planting depends primarily on soil type and bulb size. Deeper planting will be necessary in lighter soils than in heavy. The deeper the planting, within limitations, the more rapid the growth. As a rough guide narcissi bulbs should be planted about two and a half times below their size. Spacing of bulbs in the ground is again variable. For instance, if you are planting for effect close planting is required. Wider spacing must be given if choice blooms are desired, and also is called for where naturalisation is planned so that when the bulbs split up they will not interfere with each other for several years. As a rough guide allow 2 inches between bulbs if they are to be left for only one year, four inches for two years and so on. Where massed displays are intended, as for instance on a lawn, establishment can be effected by simply scattering the bulbs and planting the individual bulbs with a long narrow trowel where they fall. For this purpose only strong and hardy varieties, such as White Nile or King Alfred, should be selected. Greater effect can be obtained, too, by keeping varieties apart rather than mixing.

Good soils will facilitate deeper plantings in such situations as the border, thereby allowing the sowing and or planting later of the smaller types of annuals on top. How-

ever this method will mean bulb lifting every three or four years. After flowering, foliage should not be tied in knots or cut out as the leaves are a source of food for the rest of the plant and help to build satisfactory reserves in the bulb. Lifting should be done if needed as soon as the leaves have yellowed and withered. Dry in a shady, well-ventil-ated place to prevent scorching and access to narissus fly. This ever-prevalent pest, the larvae of which are so destructive on many other bulbs apart from narcissi, can be prevented from doing any damage if the bulbs are immersed in very hot water (110 deg. F for one hour immediately after lifting. Alternatively, fumigation using Paradi crystals, can be done. Selection is largely a personal business and perusal of reputable bulb grower’s catalogues will help. With a little patience a successional flowering sequence can be planned as is illustrated by the guide listing given below. June - August: Narcissus tasetta, Soleil d’or, paper white. Late August-September: Species such as N. bulbicodium and cyclamineus. September: Early trumpet, Magnifence. October: Trumpets, doubles, small and large cups. Late October: Jonquills. November: Poeticus.