Work For January

Press, Volume CV, Issue 30952, 7 January 1966, Page 6

Work For January

Another year is in front of us and, although it seems but yesterday that spring crops were being planted and summer bedding schemes planned, the time has come when we have to contemplate how to diversify the winter menu, when to harvest or lift, and where to dry and store.

There is often a tendency at this time of the year, to allow plants to continue their existence unattended by watering, or weed control. This is undesirable. VEGETABLES

Undoubtedly some of the big problems confronting those of us who have been

away during the last week or two will be to distinguish crops from weeds, cope with the pest invasion, and straighten and tying in such plants as tomatoes, and even runner beans.

Many weeds can be quickly removed by pulling them up with the roots intact, a job which can be efficiently and effectively done where the soil has been well tilled. Small weeds, of course, rapidly succumb to a sharpedged hoe, and hot weather very rapidly kills and shrivels them if they are left on the soil surface.

During the season more people have spoken to me about the prevalence of “blight” in their garden and most have expressed surprise on being told that the damage is, in fact, being caused by aphids. I am quite surprised at the extent and heavy infestations on the many varied crops this season, but of course the host range of these sucking insects is very extensive. Virus infection is frequently spread by these insects since they feed on plant sap and thereby transmit disease on their mouth parts or their saliva. They can cause severe stunting of plants, curling and yellowing of leaves. Some of the vegetable host range includes beans, brassicas, cucurbits, tomatoes, potatoes, lettuce, sweet corn and carrots.

As some species may have as twenty or more generations in one year, and as even a small colony can cause rapid transformation of a plant from a healthy specimen to a very sickly one, a suitable aphicide should be applied without delay. Suggested materials include systemics of the demeron methyl group for which a permit is required, lindane, malathion, and parathion.

January is the time when winter-maturing crops should be planted out to give them a chance to develop as much as possible before the onset of bad weather. Warm soil, long hours of sunshine and regular watering and weeding, together with pest and disease control, combined with satisfactory nourishment, are factors which help to increase growth and development rapidly. Vegetables to be planted are listed below- To minimise wilt during hot weather, some plants, such as brassicas and leeks, should have their leaf surface reduced by one third but this cannot be done to lettuce or celery, for instance Pinching back of cucurbits should cease now unless growth is so rampant as to become evasive, and regular watering and weeding should be done. Staked tomatoes, however, will need to be regularly inspected as they must be side shooted. Removal of basal growths and lower leaves, in cases where the first trusses of fruit are maturing, is also desirable. Tomato worm may begin to prove troublesome and spraying with carbryl or D.D.D. is recommended as these caterpillars can cause a lot of damage to the fruit if they are allowed to continue to eat unmolested. Keep the staked plants well tied so that the plant continues to grow upwards. Dwarf tomatoes may by now need a mulch or some other form of cover applied between plant and soil to keep developing fruit clean and healthy.

Potatoes should receive their final earthing up, a task which can be done incorrectly and often without much comprehension as to why it is done at all. The correct procedure is to mound the soil on either side so as to create a trough not a peak, a means whereby moisture can be trapped for the benefit of the plant. It affords protection against greening of tubers and reduces U<e chances of entry of the larvae of the tuber moth into the potato. Some support is also given to the plant. Avoid irregular waterings which can lead to physiological troubles and coarse vegetables. Sowings for the month include the following:—beetroot dwarf beans, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, endive, lettuce, kohlrabi, parsley, radish, peas, swedes, turnips, spring onions. Plantings of the following can be made:— borecole, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, celeriac, endive, lettuce, leeks, silver beet. FRUIT Fruits of all sorts will be ripening in rapid succession, but the plants, whether bush, cane or tree, will still need attention.

Many pests and diseases are likely to prove troublesome and, provided a relatively safe material such as captan, carbryl or malathion is used, protection can be given the fruit until a day or two before harvesting. Codling moth, leaf roller, pear or cherry slug, brown rot, mildew, spider mites, leaf hopper, black spot and raspberry bud moth are some of the likely trouble makers for which to watch.

Watering, too, should not be neglected whether fruit is still maturing or has been harvested.

Summer pruning can also be contemplated, especially on apple trees which have made vigorous growth. The temporary check given by shortening back long current season’s growth usually encourages greater development

of fruit buds on the remaining wood. The usual procedure is to prune back growths in excess of nine to 12 inches to about four or five leaves during midJanuary, when the main flush of growth has ceased. Subsequent secondary growth is shortened during winter pruning.

Raspberries fruit on the one-year-old wood only, which means that wood which has fruited this season is spent and will die while young growth that has been produced since spring will carry next season's crop. Unless the variety is prone to carry a second crop in early autumn, spent canes can be cut and burnt after harvesting has been completed. This will give remaining canes more freedom to develop, and also reduce the incidence of raspberry bud moth and the possible maturity, spread, and carry-over of any fungus diseases, especially where spraying is not done. Grapes, too, will require some pruning, particularly where strong growth has been made. Excessive growth can be detrimental to fruit development and makes it more difficult to effect control over invasive pests and diseases. Air circulation is also restricted. Fruiting laterals should be shortened to two or three leaves past the last bunch. Non-fruiting growths can be completely cut back to two leaves unless required for replacements. It is necessary to go over the vines periodically thereafter to suppress any growth which arises from cut backs. Ornamental During January gardens will receive considerably more attention after a period of absence, or else they will be left to fend for themselves.

If you are going away, hoeing, mulching and very thorough watering is good insurance for plant survival. Staking and tying of plants which may need it are also recommended.

Tidying up will occupy some time for those Of us just back from holidays and undoubtedly there will be desire to infuse a little life and colour into various vacant spots. We have just planted out some salvias. French and African marigolds and petunias, and others such as stock and zinnias could well be added. These are all bright flowering subjects which make no personal demands other than good watering after planting and occasionally thereafter to produce a good display of colour before autumn. Weeding is important and

should not be neglected. There is some truth in the saying “one year’s seeding, seven years’ weeding.” Some seed, from such a common weed as fathen, for instance, which seeds exceedingly profusely, can remain viable for at least five years or more. Many weeds will produce viable seed after they have reached a certain stage of maturity, even when they have been pulled up. These should be burnt and not composted. Roses can be budded this month, but only during periods without wind, which rapidly dries exposed wood when the bark has been lifted. Budding enables a desirable variety to be raised on an undesirable plant. The buds should be taken from mature growths of current season's wood. Maturity is usually indicated if the thorns snap off cleanly and easily. The bud itself should be cut with half an inch of rind above and below it. This requires a little practice. Only ramblers can be pruned now as they flower only once during the season. AU spent wood —that which has borne blooms —should be cut at ground level and current season’s growth which is retained should be tied down to induce greater flower formation.

Pests and diseases can seriously affect all roses and the only remedy is to spray. There seems to be a trend towards cutting grass almost to ground level. Why this is being done at this time of the year I am not quite sure unless it is because of the failure of the machine to cut sparse growth satisfactorily. During the warmer, dry periods the sward should be left longer, although regular but less frequent mowing should still be maintained. If the cylinder mower is not doing a satisfactory job it may be because of blunt blades, or need for a minor adjustment, —bringing the sole plate up until every part of one of the blades of the cylinder just brushes against it when revolved.

Many ornamentals can be propagated from cuttings during the month, the material used being semi-ripe. No success will be had from soft growth. Ericas, leptospermum, fuchsias, azaleas and abutilon are some which can be rooted in a sandy medium.

Carnations, too, can be grown from cuttings, or layered, but in all cases the most vigorous growths should be taken from healthy plants only. Lillies which have completed their flowering can be lifted and the scales used for propagating.