Finding A Position For And Planting Roses

Press, Volume CIV, Issue 30804, 16 July 1965, Page 6

Finding A Position For And Planting Roses

For planting roses select a position which receives most of the day's sunlight, is not exposed to strong winds, and yet is not a bottle neck of stagnant air which can assist in the spread of disease. It must also have good drainage as roses cannot thrive, and often will not survive, in a water-logged soil. Places close to hedges, trees or shrubs should' be avoided because they provide too much competition both for food and moisture.

Although capable of growing in most types of soil a good medium loam is the ideal but this aspect need not be problematic if sufficient organic matter such as compost a well-rotted manure is used to fortify the ground. This should be applied well in advance of planting and incorporated in the soil by forking or digging, in addition lime may be necessary for the heavier soils.

If newly purchased roses have dry or shrivelled roots, they should be immersed in water for 24 hours without delay. If there is another reason for not planting the roses straight away they should be heeled in separately with the wrapping removed in a shallow trench somewhere in the garden.

PREPARATION * Before planting every site should be prepared by digging a hole deep enough for the union between the stock and plant to appear just ibove ground level when the soil has been replaced, and wide enough to enable full uncramped spread of the roots. The roots should be trimmed to about 12in in length and all damaged ones removed. A handful of bone dust, blood and bone or fish meal should be forced into the bottom of the hole before positioning the plant. As the soil is being put back, gently move the rose up and down to enable percolation of soil under and around all roots, ensuring that no air pockets are formed. Then gradually firm the soil. This can be done by placing one foot on either side of the. plant and treading while moving around it. STAKING

Where standard or weeping roses are being planted, it is preferable to drive the stakes in first to avoid subsequent damage to the roots which can occur if the rose is planted first, it will also be found easier to drive the stake in vertically if it is Jone beforehand. A nylon stocking is one of the best materials that can be used for tying as it is ex-

tremely strong yet will not I damage the rose stems, however. periodic renewal will be necessary. Planting should only be contemplated when the soil is not saturated; the roots of the plants should be kept moist to avoid drying out while awaiting planting and placing between damp [ sacks until required is recommended; make sure that the I roses are firmly held but not Irammed, in the soil as loose'ness is often a cause of fail- . tire; do not plant too deeply I and do not apply artificial manures when planting. Remember that roses require a certain amount of cultural attention such as manuring, watering and spraying, and that there will be many occasions when cut flowers will be required. Spraying should he wide enough to allow easy access to each subject. As the vigour varies somewhat even amongst the roses in the same class it is as well to ascertain this factor when buying. PRUNING

Roses are rarely purchased pruned, but often, to facilitate handling, they have been cut back when lifted in the nursery. Pruning to promote strong basal growth can be done before or after planting Rose stems bruise ver’

easily and this can encourage ! disease and possible die-back, | It must be emphasised that [ only sharp secateurs shouldl be used. There is a certain I amount of disagreement concerning the merits of sometypes of secateurs and most rose specialists regard the anvil type as a truly murderous weapon as it is claimed these crush the stem This is true where the user handles then) roughly or tries to use a blunt tool. However, correctly handled and with a keen-edged blade any good design of secateur is satisfactory. Cheap ones are usually poorly designed and should not be used. BALANCING The actual pruning is really quite simple for, apart from cutting away the snag which is sometimes left by the nursery and is all left after the stock has been headfid back to the bud, take the stems and shorten sufficiently to balance the reduced root area. Of course, any damaged stems may have to be i removed completely. Prune to an outward-facing bud, making a careful cut just less than one quarter inch above and sloping away from it. With the exception of climbers, treatment is more

or less the same for all roses. A climbing rose, particularly a sport, should only be lightly cut back as it may otherwise lose its climbing tendency. Standards and weeping roses are not reduced below the head. VARIETIES The are many outstandingly attractive new roses such as “Uncle Walter,” “Picca'ckl'ly" and “Elizabeth of Glamis” but many of the older varieties are still as good as they ever were and in making a selection heed advice concerning suitability and also let choice be governed by personal taste. Although coloured photographs are a good guide to assist choice, lhe flowers of live specimens very often look different. The thoughtful gardener will go around to nurseries and gardens during the flowering season to see them first-hand.

Photographic Awards,— Awards made by the New Brighton Phofogra-phic Club in its fourth open competition were: Monochrome. A grade: P. McCulloch (2). Acceptance: A. Ewart, highly commended. Colour. A grade: R. Carson, honours; Mrs J. McDonald and G. Bridgeman (2). Acceptances: Mrs P. Bewley (2) highly commended. The judge was Mr M. B. Miller.