Leafless Bowers

Press, Volume CIV, Issue 30715, 2 April 1965, Page 6

Leafless Bowers

During December th* leaves on my pear tree withered and fell off, leaving a really good crop of sweet juicy pears hanging on bare branches. All the pears have now been used and the tree, which Is only a young one, is again covered with green foliage and is a mass of white blossom. How does one account for that?—Sandilands (Christchurch). No positive explanation can be given for the drop of leaves. Various factors could be involved such as severe mite attack, damage from spray or spray drift, or root damage. I have had two troubles this season with my peach tree. They are 1, the trouble affecting many leaves shown by the enclosed specimen of a sort of skin infection of the peaches themselves—a brown patch appears on the fruit with hardening of the skin and of the flesh below it. Often there is a brown discolouration without this hardening but the quality of the fruit is affected. Another garden problem has been mildew which has ruined my sweet peas this season after a bumper display last year in the same position. One of my delphiniums, of which I have a number, has also been badly affected.— Tyro (Christchurch).

The shot hole appearance of the peach leaves is due to a fungus disease which may be controlled by a post-harvest spray of Bordeaux mixture, a reapplication at bud movement, and any of the usual fungicides, such as captan, during the season. It is difficult to ascertain the cause of the patches on the fruit without seeing specimens. Powdery mildew on delphiniums and sweet peas may be controlled with such fungicides as captain and zineb. Could you Identify the enclosed weed for me. I have It in my lawn and wish to kill it by spraying. What must be used to dispose of it?—Flower Lover (West Coast). The specimen was unsuitable for identification. Control should be possible with Turfmaster applied according to maker's recommendations. Could you identify the potato Included with this letter? Two rows of unidentified seed were put in with the enclosed result.— (F.T. Tai Tapu). Further information regarding the plant. particularly the colour of the flower, and a more representative sample would be appreciated to assist in identification of the variety. I have a shot silk rose climbing on a *ff’ by Mt trellis. It is 12 months old and has thrown up very long branches, too long for the trellis even when curved and tied against it. Can I cut off the extra length without spoiling the effect? My hydrangeas have grown very high this year and have been covered with flowers. I would like to have them Only abeut four feet high. Is it too late to shorten them now? Could branches that have flowered and are flowering now be cut very low soon? What Is the best way to stake hydrangeas?—“Maureen.”

It is very difficult, if not impossible, to restrict such vigoroulsy growing plants as cutting only induces more growth. Root severage or the restriction of fertilisers, especially where the soil is of a better class, is sometimes effective. Hydrangeas may be pruned for shape and compactness as soon as the flowers fade by cutting off the flower head with one or two pairs of leaves attached. It may also be pruned later. One way to stake them is to pull the bush together with twine’ held by a supporting peg at the back.