Climb Safely This Season—II Climbing Skill Comes With Experience

Press, Volume CIII, Issue 30610, 28 November 1964, Page 11

Climb Safely This Season—II Climbing Skill Comes With Experience

“In mountaineering there is only one principle: that we should secure on any given day the highest form of mountain adventure consistent with our sense of proportion. Ail else is more a matter of practice than of principle ... In climbing mountains danger is a present and constant element, not remote as in other sports. It is always with us. behind the veil of pleasant circumstance, and we can be at grips with it almost before we are aware.”—Geoffrey Winthrop Young. It must be emphasised that real competence can only be gained from experience. Good instruction can provide a sound foundation and point the way. The rest is over to the man himself. Instruction classes can give valuable advice, stimulate interest, and teach the technique of the sport. Procedures can be explained which will eliminate much of the laborious trial and error method, but the essential requirement for competence is experiencegained from trips to high and low hills, under all sorts of snow. ice. rock and weather conditions, experience in camps, valley travel, in rivers, and by association with others who frequent the hills. A climber’s knowledge of snow conditions will never be complete, no matter how long he may climb. The difficulty of snow and ice peaks may vary so greatly according to conditions as to make some of the smaller peaks major climbs when they are not in good condition. A good climber is constantly alert and concentrates on climbing safely and well, and on handling the rone properly to preserve the safety of his companions.

Do not hesitate to obtain detailed information about conditions and the best routes from other climbers or guides, and carry out the instructions received. Steps.-—ln soft snow, steps may be kicked by the leader when they are necessary, and those following should consolidate them. On harder slopes the steps must be cut with the ice

axe, using the adze for hard consolidated snow and the pick for hard ice. Crampons.—lf properly used, crampons may increase safety and will greatly increase speed. Place the feet with the sole parallel to the slope so that all the points bite at the same time, flexing the ankles Io take the strain. When climbing steep slopes without cutting steps, the crampons must be deliberately stamped into the slope to make them grip. Practice in the use of crampons is essential before attempting to use them on anything but the easiest of climbs. Anchoring.—On difficult slopes or when crossing doubtful snow bridges, always move one at a time, with the other members of the party anchoring or belaying the person moving. When anchoring or belaying, keep watching the climber who is moving, and take in or pay out the rope promptly as he moves. A shaft anchor is used when the shaft of the ice axe can be driven deeply into the snow. The anchor should be made above the person anchoring, and the

shaft should be vertical, not at right angles to the slope. When using a shaft anchor to belay a moving climber, take a turn round the shaft of the axe at the level of the snow. Stand close to the axe and hold it firmly so that it is not jerked out of the snow by the sudden strain. Ability to hold a man by a shaft anchor can be increased if, after driving in the shaft of the axe, the belayer stands sideways on the slope with the upper foot stamped against the shaft.

The rope from the man moving is then passed at snow level above the shaft and down over the instep of the upper foot. The rope is held as low as possible round the down slope side of the other leg. If the moving man should fall, the rope is allowed to run through the hand, when friction of the rope against shaft, boot and leg will bring the fall to a halt. As satisfactory anchors and belays are so problematical on ice, the best rule is that those who cannot climb confidently on long, steep ice slopes should keep away from them until they can. (To be continued.)

(■Published in association with the Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand. and the Mount Cook National Park Board)