Time To Prepare For Pruning

Press, Volume CIII, Issue 30471, 19 June 1964, Page 6

Time To Prepare For Pruning

Soon it will be time to bring ont the tools dnd other items necessary for pruning. The tools required to do the job properly include . a pair of secateurs, a pruning saw and a knife with a strong blade that would be suitable for paring. A pair of steps and probably a ladder may be necessary,' and to finish, some form of sealant.

Secateurs Secateurs on the market are as variable in design as they are in price. There is the so-called roll-cut type with a single cutting blade, which cuts against a brass anvil. This part is replaceable. Alternatively, there is the straight-edged double-bladed kfnd, or the old favourite, which is a modification of this type, the parrot billed form, which consists of curved double blades. Both types, if kept in good order and used correctly, do : an excellent job, the choice is up to you and is only limited by the cost involved. Saws These are important for removing larger limbs that would cause damage to secateurs by forcing them’ out of trueness. Wood in excess of a half to three-quarters of an inch in diameter should be removed with a saw. The pruning saw is most

desirable because of its shape; it permits the maximum of manipulation in awkward angles. A bow saw is more useful for dealing with really large limbs but, because of its construction,' in unsuitable for closely spaced branches and for cuts at difficult angles. Knife

This is required for "paring the edges of cuts that have been formed by saws, i.e., cuts in excess of half an inch in diameter. A smooth cut will heal much quicker than a rough one and sealing agents are much easier to apply to Smooth cuts. There are special knives with curved blades available for this job but any kind of knife could be used. It must have a reasonably-sized blade that is strong and will maintain a good edge. In the past knives were the only tool used when pruning small diameter branches and some gardeners experienced in their use find them preferable to secateurs. Forays into the fruit garden with gorse knives, fern hooks, hedge slashers, butcher’s choppers or axes may impress any onlookers but their use is strictly taboo. Needless to say if is to be hoped that all equipment to be used in pruning is kept clean, sharp, and the teeth of the saws slightly off-set to

one another. Blunt cutting edges bruise the bark, make cutting harder work and results in aching wrists. Little or no set on a saw blade prevents ’ smooth manipulation and results in jamming, due to an accumulation of sawdust in the cuts. Steps and Ladders These should be in a good state of repair because it is generally too late to check them after they have collapsed. Steps with a single support are more manoeuvrable than the more orthodox type with the double support, especially on uneven or sloping ground. Make sure that the steps are firmly set out and do not rock or sway. Ladders of aluminium are easier to manhandle than the wooden variety. These should only be necessary for the tallest trees and should be set firmly in position sb they do not rock. It may be advisable to tie the top rung securely to the branch of the tree against which it is resting to ensure that it is really safe from slipping. Sealing Agents

Cut • surfaces greater than three-quarters of an inch in diameter should always be sealed by one of the numerous sealing agents that are available. Some of these are

available for immediate use while others may need to be made up before they can be applied. Sealing is applied to assist in the process of healing, reduce drying out or the entry of moisture, and, most important, tb prevent the entry of disease agents. A group, sometimes known as hot waxes, include resin, burgundy pitch, and tallow, as well as certain proprietary preparations and need heating before application. Most of these are excellent but their use is often limited by their inconvenience of handling.

Another group, referred to as cold waxes, include grease and bitumen, as well as proprietary products. When using wax it is possible to introduce a growth-promoting hormone which aids in callus formation and is particularly useful where main limbs have to be removed. Clay pug is a preparation that can be readily made up at home and has been in use for very many years. It is claimed by many users to aid in callussing but its disadvantage may be its unpleasant ingredients and method of preparation. It consists of clay, cow manure and horse hair kneaded together to produce a plastic consistency. Good quality household paints can be used where other materials are not available.