Accessories From 1930s Back

Press, Volume CIII, Issue 30433, 6 May 1964, Page 2

Accessories From 1930s Back

- .N Z .PJL. -Reuzer * PARIS. Trimmings and accessories borrowed from the 1930 s emerge as the complement to the new spring fashion models here. The mood epitomised by the “man’s woman” ! is based on minute detail, rather than any vital change in silhouette. Paris abounds with ideas which are easy ‘ to copy and adapt. Inexpensive accessories like pale stockings and multi-layered white organza collars are already on sale in Paris " department stores. The essence of this year’s “look” emerges in many details, ranging from a deflated hair style to the revival of belts and low-heel, two-toned shoes. The new look decrees a small head. Hair is either, bobbed in Charleston styles or worn twisted back in a chignon. Coiffures are trimmed with hair bows and bandeaux, or hidden under: symmetrical toques and turbans. The dominant millinery trends are the Greta Garbo cloche, the sou-wester withstitched brim folded back off . the brow, and Yves St. Laurent's squared-brim sailor hats. White Camellias If a single accessory could symbolise Paris fashions in this spring of 1964. it would be a white camellia. Every couture house revives the artificial camellia or gardenia buttonhole. Dior even discarded the traditional

sprig of lily-of-the-valiey in favour of white camellias or burgundy red carnations pinned on a jacket rever. caught at the base of a white collar, or looped through a narrow sash belt Miguel Ferreras even replaces cuff links on long sleeves silk shirts with miniature camellias. Other designers use flowers instead of buttons. Although Yves St. Laurent was not even born in the 193ffs. be has built his entire collection round the prototype of that era: the “white collar girl.” I The most popular coilecI tions in Paris score with simple navy or black dresses, •spotlighted by white collars and white accessories. St. Laurent handles the effect with puritanical simplicity. Other designers. like Cardin and Crahay of Lanvin, prefer frothier effects with layer-upon-layer collars of white organdy which appear as light as French pastry Waistcoats, jabots, and modesty vests fill scooped necklines. Crahay shows doub’e collars of white over black organdy.

Wearing Of Scarves The seasoning in the new look may be nothing more, than a different way of wearing a scarf, thereby adding excitement to a collarless neckline. Square scarves are folded straight and wrapped. round the throat with one end trailing over the shoulder. Balenciaga drapes his scarves in an assymetrical

.triangle across one shoulder and sleeve. Large triangular shawls are used for evening in matching fabrics. They are worn kerchief style over the head or draped gracefully over the shoulders. They look newest when trimmed with a wide jewelled fringe which can be bought by the yard at any department store Crochet trimming "a la Chanel” are another easy effect. Yarn pipings edae cardigan suit jackets, necklines and pockets. Madeleine de Rauch brings back the embroidered three-letter monogram, featured in a dark shade on the pocket of white silk shirts. Belts Are Back Belts are back everywhere. Both one and two-piece dresses suddenly look younger and more feminine with a belt encircling the natural waistline. The majority of belts come in dog leash or rat tail styles, although Balenciaga shows six-inch wide crushed sashes made of glove leather in contrasting colour. Lanvin launches evening belts made like a necklace of six rows of evenly matched pearls.

! Camellias and other floral i effects evoke Botticelli's j spring in formal fashions. Any plain evening dress may be garlanded across the bodice with flowers, or acquire a short white jacket made of guipure lace flutter- : ing with semi-detached petals.. Balenciaga's most spectacular model is a full-length coat made entirely . of life-sized ipink and white sweetpeas. Seamed Stockings Legs are clad in seamed stockings in new pale, offwhite shades Castillo s stock- • Ings have hair-breadth seams; which he calls “invisible.” Ail the designers agree that seamed stockings slim the' , legs and are more flattering J than the seamless variety. i Novelty hosiery in lace or textured patterns remains on the scene for sportswear. i Shoe news comes in low i heels, featured in St Laur- ; ent's cyclist effects laced up • over instep, and Balenciaga's sturdy pumps with a big isteel buckle. Street and forfmal shoes revive the old “T“i strap style, or hark back to : sling back and two-toned speci tator court shoes of the 1930’5.