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PROPAGATING SHRUBS FROM CUTTINGS

Most home gardeners like to try their hand at propagating plants of. all types. Many seem to be unsuccessful. while those few who seem to be able to root anything are looked upon with envy and spoken of as having “green fingers.” Their success depends, to a large extent, on observation, for they notice that certain plants can be induced to root better at certain times of the year. The present time, for instance, is a good time to root the cutting of manykinds of shrubs to be found in the garden.

Cuttings are taken from material that is semi-ripe. This means that although the shoot is still growing, the wood is beginning to ripen; it is no longer soft. Shrubs that flower early in the season make growth after flowering and it is this growth that is "used in making the cut-

tings. When taking cuttings, chouse plaints that are healthy. Reject shoots that are flowering, and avoid using leading shoots or stronglygrowing upright ones, select side growths instead. Shoots from the outside of the bush on its sunny side will root better than those from the inside of the bush or from the shady side of it Having selected a suitable growth, take a sharp knife and remove the shoot. Retain the growing point and make a cut below a leaf or a pair of leaves so that the cutting is about four inches long. This will vary somewhat according to the material being used.

Remove the lower leaves, only sufficient so as to be able to insert the cutting into the rooting medium. Now dip the cut end of the cutting Into one of the rooting hormones. Those in powder form are most suitable, and the grade for semi-ripe cuttings should be used. Propagating Structures Those who have a glasshouse will find that cuttings will root easily here, in a propagating frame, boxes, or even in pots.

Not all of us have glasshouses, but a garden frame is quite suitable. A temporary one can easily be made by taking a large wooden box and knocking out the bottom; this can be stood on a concrete path or on the soil. The box should be covered with a sheet of glass or polythene.

Small quantities can be rooted in a pot which is covered with a glass jar, or the pot can be placed inside a polythene bag. This pot can be stood on the kitchen window silt The Rooting Medium This should consist of a high proportion of sharp river sand or fine gravel. Where soil is of a medium nature a mixture could be half and half, but if the soil tends to be heavy the proportion of sand should be increased; no fertilisers of any description should be used. The frame can be partly filled with the rooting medium, or pots and boxes, already filled, placed in the frame. The rooting medium should be well firmed and watered if necessary so as to be reasonably moist This will facilitate the insertion of the cuttings.

After Care of the Cuttings The cuttings should be inserted by using a dibber, and each cutting should be well firmed. Label each batch of

cuttings and add the date to the label for future reference. After insertion, the cuttings should be well watered. At no time should they be allowed to dry out and spraying overhead daily, and even more often in hot weather, is advantageous. Cover with a light sheet of glass or polythene and keep covered at all times.

Shade from direct sun should be provided. Where possible the frames should be so sited that they are in shade. Shade can be provided by covering the frames with scrim, or by applying a lime wash to the glass or polythene. The length of time taken for the cuttings to root will vary with conditions as well as with the plants that are being propagated. In some cuttings, but by no means all, the cutting may begin to grow when it has rooted. Once rooting has taken place the coverings can be removed from over the cuttings. The cuttings are usually left undisturbed until the fol-

lowing spring when they are lifted and lined out in a corner of the garden where they should be carefully attended during the growing season, and the following year they can be planted into their permanent positions. Suitable Subjects

■The following are some of the shrubs that are easy to propagate, but it is by no means a comprehensive list: — Abutilons (Chinese Lanterns); Buddleias (Butterfly bush), Cistus (sun roses), Diervilla, Deutzia, Euonymus (spindle berry), Forsythias (golden bells), Hebes (shrubby Veronicas), Hydrangeas, Jasmine, Lavender, Philadelphus (mock orange), Rosemary, Spiraea. Very many shrubs can be propagated at this time of the year, with varying degrees of success, some being quite easy, while there are others more difficult Home gardeners may like to try their hands with all kinds of shrubs and I wish them every success in getting them to root

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19630215.2.35.1

Bibliographic details

Press, Volume CII, Issue 30057, 15 February 1963, Page 6

Word Count
840

PROPAGATING SHRUBS FROM CUTTINGS Press, Volume CII, Issue 30057, 15 February 1963, Page 6

PROPAGATING SHRUBS FROM CUTTINGS Press, Volume CII, Issue 30057, 15 February 1963, Page 6