New Guinea Expedition Sixty-Mile Trek To Ilaga Mission Station

Press, Volume C, Issue 29554, 1 July 1961, Page 8

New Guinea Expedition Sixty-Mile Trek To Ilaga Mission Station

(Specially written for "The Press” by PHILIP TEMPLE)

ILAGA MISSION, June 17. Sitting in the sun here the 1 six members of the expedi- ' t.' n are dry for the first time ■ in seven days. A week ago we left Tiome '• in the Baliem Valley and began a trek magnificent in its 1 surroudings but nightmarish in content. We left Hollandia on June 9 and had a superb flight over the great lakes plain of ! the Idenburg and Rouffaer < rivers—two that combine their sweeping meanders to form the Mamberamo that bursts through the hills to the Pacific. The jagged limestone range to. the south loomed nearer! and then suddenly dropped; away as the Baliem Valley! opened beneath us. Landing! at Womena the only Government post in the area. ■we l stored our airdrop supplies and then moved to Tiome! further up the valley by light j aircraft. In the hot afternoon sun' we sorted final loads at the6000ft mission airstrip. Four-! teen carriers were hired—six to come through with us on. the 60 miles to llaga, the mission within a few days of I our objective, the Carstensz Peaks. The payment for the trip was a bush knife for each man. Ijomba. our headman, led off at a scorching pace up a tributary of toe Baliem. The “tuans," who were carrying similar loads to the bearers, had trouble keeping up. There were six thankful New Zealanders who stepped carefully across a vine bridge and camped by the riverside at dusk. The next day. June 10, gave a promise of things to come. After a walk through; sweet potato gardens where, the carriers' food was pur-; chased for the remainder of, the trip, we steadily left populated areas behind and headed for the high range separating us from the Baliem proper. We waded across the river and walked through some trees towards! the hillside.

There was a shout, ahead the noise of our shotgun, and our Dani carriers came scurrying back without their loads.

Unwittingly Ijomba had taken us into hostile territory. and four arrows had been loosed off at the leading “tuan." The shotgun

had put them to flight, but warriors still danced round threateningly upon the hill. We made a smart detour. The next hours were spent dragging our unwilling, unacclimatised bodies over an 11,000 ft pass, and climbing through the network of moss forest roots. The weather grew worse and the going muddier. With almost our last reserves of energy we dragged ourselves over the top and straggled into a cramped second camp. The fo’atowing day half of out carriers - lert us. and larger toads of 40-50’bs became toe average for toe rest of the trek.

We rapidity dropped to the hostile semi-desert ed basin of the upper Bailliem, bypassing toe "Hole in the Wall’’ where the river pastes underground. Crossing a natural bridge across a tributary we found deserted village® and gardens—symptoms of total wars.

The heavier members suffered most of all. Our legs were constantly sheathed to toe knees in mud and gradu-

Ijomba illustrated with vigorous gestures that enemies were ahead and the sliotgun and revolver went ahead to reassure the carriers. We crossed a palldsade and were met by a single warrior Whose manner wus more fear of our guns than welcome. ■ Slyly he watched us depart On the opposite bank of the river, columns of smoke signalled our passage to others further up the valley. Gamp three was set up on the crest of a knoll giving a good viewpoint and protection.

The next day the mud started. Alternately we stumbled over greasy togs in 'bolts of moes forest and I ptouched tlunou.'Jh the streams of mud wihcch passed as tracks across toe swamp. ! We went for three days [dragging one boot after the other, sometimes ankle deep 'and sometimes knee’ deep.

ally all equipment and clothing became smeared. The first few days were virtually rainless, which helped us on our way. but when rain finally made its appearance our world became entirely liquid, and we almost fielt it better to take to the river and swim. From the air or from a high point this basin looks ideal for dairy farming, and would be if drained, but only a journey on foot can tell the truth of swamp. Day temperatures were moderate at our average height of 8000 ft, but at night our down jackets were much appreciated. On the fifth day we reached the head of the basin where the river banks began to dry out, and solid rocks were once more felt underfoot. We were confronted by a north-south range, to the south and Prinz Willem ranges sported some fine virgin limestone peaks, while a Line of hills to the north effectively encircled us. The climb over the range took us 12,000 ft up and on to scrubby tarn-covered tops, looking back from the top. we took in forty miles of our journey and picked out past camps That night, after a heavy day. we suffered our worst camp, on swampy tussock. During the night water oozed through the floor of our single tent and dripped through the roof from a swirling mist. The six of us woke in the morning with sleeping bags saturated, and we set off at a trot to warm up and reach the llaga Valley as quickly as possible. Our carriers were reluctant to move under these conditions, and it was some time before toe sun rose high enough to urge them on. Following the broad ridge, the valley suddenly burst into

view’, and the mission and the airstrip below gladdened our hearts. A rushing descent took up down 3009 ft to toe villages, where our party was. given a great welcome. We' were relieved of our pack* and led at a run to the mission where fresh native food and sleep in dry surroundings, was a supreme luxury after the experience of toe previous week. The natives who were our carriers and who populate the whole area of our activities are of the Dani tribe. They are a highly intelligent and willing people who have shown their superiority by steadily dominating all the valleys surrounding the Baliem. They are of medium height and present a variety of facial features, ranging from the Semetic type to almost an Italian type. Naked except for a gourd or string covering the lower parts of their bodies, the natives are able to stand up to extremes of temperature and altitude. At night on the trek, they W’ould stop by a convenient shelter and light a huge fire to see them through the cold and darkness. They were able to carry loads up to 351 b on remarkably small amounts of sweet potatoes, after we left the last friendly village. Always friendly and happy, Ijomba led the carriers in prayers two or three times a day. and it was nn honour to particiapte in this simple expression of Christian faith in toe centre of this virtually unexplored island. Tomorrow, with fresh curriers, we leave for the Carstensz mountains, a hidden jewel in this sea of green velvet A few days will see us on the snow—our goal. (To be continued.)