Most Of Our Apples Have A Long History

Press, Volume XCIX, Issue 29269, 29 July 1960, Page 9

Most Of Our Apples Have A Long History

The apple is the fruit of antiquity. Some of our very best varieties are from 200 to 300 years old, and still hold their own with the latest introductions. Cox's Orange Pippin, Stunner and Ribston Pippin are examples of this. .The very names indicate their chance raising from pips in various parts of England, for a pippin was an apple raised from a pip.

Not so many years ago a British trade journal classed Cox’s Orange as the best English apple, and Newtown Pippin as the best American. This, it must be admitted, was before the Delicious or Staymen’s Winesap became as widely known as they are today. I do not think any fruit is as easily pollinated as the apple, or so likely,to alter its characteristics. For seedlings from any fruit tend to differ from the parent. I am often shown chance seedling fruit, and, although some possible resemblance to the parent stock may be apparent, these can only be classed as seedlings without name. Sometimes a really worth-n-while sort appears, as, for instance, the New Zealand varieties Lord Wolseley, Fair Belle, Kidd’s Orange, Red Merivale, or Prince Bismark, but these can only be classed as “good.” The father of apples is the old Ribston Pippin, which dates back to 1690. This was the parent of both Cox’s Orange and Stunner Pippins. These three, with the Blenheim Orange, form England’s famous quartet of dessert apples, with almost two centuries of history behind each. The odds, therefore, are distinctly against the successful raising of any superlative dessert apple from the pips today. From the United States we get Delicious, Jonathan, Statesman, and Desert Gold—all excellent apples—while from Australia come the popular Ballarat, Granny Smith, and Democrat. One reason for the fidelity of growers to some of the older sorts, such as Statesman and Democrat, is probably due to the cost of planting an orchard. The initial cost of orchard stock is such that any new sort has to be well proved, before that expense is incurred For th e home gardener and fruit grower the aspect of expensive risk is not so great, and there is a corresponding latitude for new experiments in plantipg. All the same, it is usual to find the old and tested varieties still predominant in most home orchards where space is a limiting factor.

It is not only as an orchard fruit that the apple family has come into favour in recent years, but also for decorative purposes. This is evidenced by the resurgence of popularity of the crab apples. John Downie, Jack Humm and Gorgeous. These miniature apples make most effective lawn specimens in their spring flowering, and again when carrying their brightly coloured autumn fruits.

Work Now Is Important

Planting, pruning and spraying will now keep this department very busy, for, with lengthening days, we shall soon see signs of spring growth, and that means the end of winter work. It applies particularly to spraying, as full winter strength affords the best check to the cycle of life of both insect and fungoid pests. The spraying formula is simple enough. On all fruit trees spray lime sulphur, for almost all trees attract some form of fungoid troubles calling for this form of liquid spray. But with all pip fruits, vines and bush fruits some forms of insect life are harboured, and for these the best known control is by the use of a red oil

spray at a strength of one in 20. There should be no delaying of this important work, for the sooner all fruit trees are given the appropriate treatment the more certain this is to prove effective.

Fruit tree planting is now general. Once in position, these should be lighlty pruned for shape, and this is very important. Consult your nurseryman regarding varieties. Do not make the mistake of planting a selfinfertile plum, such as the greengage, by itself, or planting a peach tree in a cold, wet position better suited to an apple tree. Give good preparation to the site of all these trees by digging deep and wide, and manuring thoroughly. For the trees you plant are going to remain there for a long time. No tree likes wet “feet,” so don’t overlook the advantage of securing drainage by placing some rubble, old tins, etc., at the bottom of the hole before planting and filling in the soil. This servies the double purpose of keeping the roots dry and disposing of a considerable quantity of unsightly rubbish in one operation.

Vines and raspberry patch need a thorough pruning now, while the gooseberries also need attention by pruning to a high, open centre.

Caustic Sprays

While there is considerable risk involved in the use of caustic — even after dilution, it will mark the clothing and injure the skin—its use, particularly in the treatment of “old man” apple trees, is often very desirable. Nevertheless it is a treatment only to be undertaken with full appreciation of the risks involved and the operator should wear suitably protected clothing and gloves and work only on a still, windless day. Caustic spray is suitable for any tree infested with moss, lichen or rough scaly bark giving cover to insects and, their eggs. It is better than red oil to rejuvenate old, neglected trees, but care must be taken that it does not damage any plants below and near to the trees.

Cousins in his book recommends this mixture: one pound of caustic in half a bucket of water. Then add %lb carbonate of potash. Stir .till dissolved and dilute the solution to 10 gallons. Meanwhile, dissolve lOoz of soft soap in a little boiling water, and when ready to spray add this to the 10 gallons and stir the whole thoroughly. The soap acts as a sticker, and its addition secures a thorough wetting and is economical. Some use only the caustic soda and water, but this not as effective as the complete recipe given above, which will convert any moss-grown tree into one with clear, shining bark free of insect life.