PRACTICAL GARDENING

Press, Volume XCVIII, Issue 28895, 15 May 1959, Page 3

PRACTICAL GARDENING

Specially Written for ‘The Press ”by

T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., NZ.

Trees To Suit Those More Confined Spaces

Last week we noted the importance of choosing trees suitable for the decoration of large areas such as lawns, and today the question of trees and shrubs to ornament more restricted spaces can be reviewed.

Most gardens provide a border along the street line inside the fence, and also down the sides of the section. These spaces are very important, for they provide excellent positions for those flowering shrubs and trees which most persons love to have, and which can be so decorative in their season. Even the smaller sections usually will provide some space for such decorative subjects and still leave room remaining for the indispensible small plants or bulbs.

For the front border, plant, not closer than 10ft apart and about 3ft from the fence, such splendid flowering subjects as the flowering apple, prunus, or almond—so glorious in the spring. The blue ceanothys and the laburnum are good So is the ‘‘golden rain” or Forsythia—perhaps one of the most popular in local plantings. The magnificent magnolia, rhododendron, camellia, guelder rose (Viburnum opulus), snowdrop tree (Halesia tetraptera), Chiliam firebush, any of these can be recommended. Indeed the selection of these lesser growers becomes almost bewildering in its diversity; for to those mentioned could be added the flowering

brooms, the native Hokeria, purple or variegated flax, purple-leaved dodonea, and berberis.

The Judas tree (Cercis silaquastrium) is also worth including for its profuse pink flowers in November.

There are also many dwarfer plants growing to three or four feet in height, which are admirable for planting in between the taller trees and shrubs, or in the narrower borders. Among these are Indian asaleas, and dwarf rhododendrons, both of which are excellent for shaded places, while

ericas and dwarf viburnums, and, of course, our glorious red manukas, cannot be overlooked in making a selection. The main thing with all these, of course, is to know the natural dimensions to which each will grow, and choose carefully with a wary eye upon future development rather than upon immediate effectiveness. Gardening should always be treated as a “long range” project, and nowhere is this more necessary than in the selections and placement of trees and shrubs.

Here And There In The Flower Garden . . .

We can write dahlias off for the year. Top growths should be cut off about six inches above ground, and the tops removed to the compost heap. The strong stems will not rot away quickly, therefore it is wise to chop them up with the spade. This will leave much valuable space for replenishing. Lilies, always popular, are excellent for these spaces, being back row flowers, themselves.

Lilies are such lovely things, too. Beginning with L. candidum —the Christmas lily—you can have a procession of these lovely flowers from November to April. Some wonderful things are now available. L. auratum gives us some wonderful types and, although not inexpensive, are worth having. So is L. speciosum magnificum. Marlyn Ross is the newest thing in yellows, while there are quite a few pink coloured varieties, and improved white trumpet lilies to flower in the summer. Lilies like a moist, shaded position and a rich, welldrained soil. Spring-flowering bulbs should be used now for whatever spaces are available. Most look best when planted in some quantity, for they then make a great show, and cause the minimum of interference with the spring planting

out of summer border plants. At the same time as you are planting the bulbs, such things as wallflower, Iceland poppy, beauty stocks, Canterbury bells, sweet William and polyanthus and other spring-flowering plants can be put out. Some very distinctive autumnflowering bulbs can also be planted now. The pink amaryllis belladonna is well known. The white variety is much more attractive, and there are also the crinums in pink and white. Then there are the Spider lilies, or nerines, in white, pink and red; and various autumn crocus should now be planted. Most people realise the beauty of the gentian and esteem it for its charm and intense colouring. Probably the two best varieties are G. acaulis, the wonderful spring-flowering sort, with its large bells of brightest blue; and the G. sino-ornato, which is flowering now. Both are very amenable to cultivation, making quite large patches of growths where a fairly cool, semi-peat slope is given them, for good drainage is more essential than sun heat. Both varieties do well on the rockery, for there the stones give the roots the coolness they love. Once established, these gentians spread out into close mats, in their season producing freely their striking azure bells on short stalks.

In The GREENHOUSE

Though work in the greenhouse may not be so onerous during the winter months, the interval will allow of other preparations. Empty pots can be gone over, washed and stacked. Labels may have to be renewed. Supplies of soil, sand and peat can be taken under cover, ready for spring potting work. Pot plants should not be overwatered. Fuchsias and geraniums, as they finish, should be stood down. Cyclamen, primulas, and schizanthus can be potted up to fill the benches. These plants revel in half-compost soil. Attractive things for the summer can also now be potted up. Lilies are excellent. So is the justicia, Deutzia gracalis, Russellia juncta, and narcissus and hyacinths.

The VEGETABLE GARDEN—

Onions, carrots, beet and cabbage which were sown in March 1 should be hand weeded while the weather is good. The clearance now will have an important effect on their future growth. Cabbages and winter greens are growing well, and should be ahead of the butterfly grubs. Aphis is, however, likely to be present, and this pest calls for an insecticide spray applied with force. Planting of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuces can still be made. Trench any vacant ground. Leave it in the rough for frost and< weather to get into. Apply a liberal dressing of carbonate of lime to all ground, but taper off on the piece which is going to be the potato patch for next season. Too much lime in the soil will bring the potatoes up in surface scabs. As the brussels sprouts grow, keep picking off the bottom leaves, leaving a thick tuft at the top. Aphis thrives on these plants. If they are making slow growth, water with strong animal manure. The asparagus bed can be tidied up by cutting off all stems above ground level. This will avoid the dropping of red seed berries which are not wanted on a productive bed. It will also allow of the clearing away of any weeds. When this has been done, spread a 2in thickness of sawdust or strawy manure. And may I repeat that finished growths of tomato, runner beans, potatoes or sweet corn can be composted or chopped up for digging in. Any trusses of green tomatoes can be taken off and tied up to hang in the shed where they should colour up and ripen for later use.