DIOR’S NEW FASHIONS

Press, Volume XCVI, Issue 28346, 3 August 1957, Page 2

DIOR’S NEW FASHIONS

“Spindle Line”

Presented

(N.Z. Press Association—. Copyright) PARIS, August 1. Christian Dior drops the waist, erases the bosom afid brings in a moderately shorter hem and a straight-bloused silhouette in the new “Spindle Line” presented today. The message this season is the unfitted chemise for street wear and the flattened long-bdsom look Dior defines his silhouette as being “between two parentheses” . Waists rest on the hip-bone through evolutions of the bloused vareuse, in two-piece dresses. Necklines are puritanically high for day wear. The bosom first states its existence in afternoon clothes, when the eighteenth century look comes in. Dior’s controversial hem length is shorter by his own standards established about 15in for day wear, but is not revolutionary compared with other Paris houses Straight and Loose Spindle coats and dresses are loose, tubular sheaths, cut straight and tapering, from wider sloped shoulders to a narrow hero Suits bring in .the long, tapered jacket with a bulky, wide-top look. Peplums reach to the top of the thigh in j loosely belted style, or hug the hips. The first afternoon dresses launch the Gauguin sarong in sheaths with skirts draped on the hips like a loin cloth. The opposing silhouette is the eighteenth century costume which revives the voluminous skirt width evenly distributed in bouffant style’s over crinolines. They are mounted by means of shirring at a line 2in below the normal waist. The long bodice corset-cover effect is established by vertical seaming and a tight bust line.

Vertical seaming from neck to waist, abolishing undercuts beneath the bosom, is the secret of Dior’s newest look.

Eighteenth Century Eighteenth century dresses are typified by draped shawl collars, fichus, ruched trimming, ribbon boWs and knots, and petticoats The plunging decollete of Dior’s romantic look is in sharp contrast to daytime austerity

Hats, married to each costume in matching colour or fabric stress small cloche and sailor shapes, worn straight, Bretons and bowlers tip to the side. Chignon caps, tiny pillboxes and dolls’ hats come in for evening. Black is the strongest single theme, complemented by intense shades of bright red. Tyrolean green and alice blue.