NEWS FOR WOMEN Paris Fashions Reveal Nostalgia And Futurism

Press, Volume XCV, Issue 28167, 4 January 1957, Page 2

NEWS FOR WOMEN Paris Fashions Reveal Nostalgia And Futurism

The Paris collections divide' themselves sharply into those that look backward and those that look forward. Dior and Balmain both cast nostalgic glances over their shoulders to a not-so-distant past, just before the holocaust of 1914 brought to an abrupt end an era of elegance and luxury, writes Ernestine Carter in the “Sunday Times,” London. Balenciaga and Givenchy are the masters of the future. Balen-, ciaga’s main preoccupation is the development of his tunic theme! of last season. He has extended it to suits: a miracle of proportioning cuts the line in three—jacket or cape, tunic and tight skirt. His tunic frocks are narrow and widely suede-belted for day; fitted and’flaring for evening. His capes are like cocoons entirely concealing not only shape, but hands. (An American re-1 marked that handbags will presumably be carried in the teeth.)

Coats have brutally wide shoulders, reminding one of Sid Fields, and stop abruptly an inch above the skirt hem. Black dresses abound, subtly draped and invariably worn with black gloves. For evening, satins gleam in the rich colours beloved by Balenciaga and Castillo and are accompanied by bell-shaped cape-collared capes or cloaks.

Hats are enormous cloche shapes or spirals of tulle or the tiniest of tiny pillboxes, worn dn top or at the back of the head. Givenchy’s collection was viewed in rapt silence*. Idea after idea followed in such rapid succession that they almost defied note-taking. So far into the future has this eccentric genius peered that he might be creating clothes for Martians.

A series of high-waisted dresses, coats and suits—past the Directoire towards the Precieuses, with enormous mob-cap hats to match—-are alternated with dresses so straight

and tubular that, as they narrow to the hem, they out-hobble the tightest hobble skirt. His drawstring theme is still dear to his heart, and many of these little black sacks have draw-string-gathered necklines. Bows at the neck are repeated at the narrow hems, tying in draperies or panels which grow from the basic tube to obscure the shape infront or back* and sometimes capelike, shroud the arms. In contrast to the tubes, he showed balloon skirts for evening, short or long, cuffed in to a stringent hem. In between these fantasies he showed a series of dazzlingly simple suits, their high waists indicated only by a clever horizontal seam across the back or straps at the front. As at Balenciaga, coats and suits are largely and elaborately buttoned and sleeves are never more than threequarter length. Givenchy’s are clothes of tomorrow, a manufacturer’s rather than a customer’s collection.