COLOURFUL FRONTAGES IN CHRISTCHURCH SUBURBS

Press, Volume XCIII, Issue 27859, 6 January 1956, Page 13

COLOURFUL FRONTAGES IN CHRISTCHURCH SUBURBS

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially written for "The Press”]

(By

T.D. LENNIE. N.Z.]

FLOWER GARDEN

It is worth while now to tour round the suburbs, seeing the display from the street. Almost without exception, the verdict will be distinctly favourable. An unkempt garden is rare, and in most cases, most colourful frontages are to be seen. Apart from the usual plants used, such as lobelia, marigolds and alyssum, more and more of the one-time unusual bedding plants are being used. These include bedding geraniums, bedding begonias, silver leaf pyrethrum and centaurea. Few gardens today do not use at least a few of these. The dwarf bedding dahlias, Univins and Coltness, are also to be seen in many of these displays. It is a question whether roses or annuals contribute most to the wonderful front garden displays that undoubtedly provide the basis of the claim that Christchurch is the garden city. These front garden displays are not produced except by planning ahead, and hard work throughout the spring. Most residents contributing are naturally pleased with results, as well they may be. But we are only in the middle of the summer, and the work must go on—weeding, staking, planting and watering. No doubt there will be spaces to fill in or replacements to be made, and suitable plants to fill them can still be put out. Asters, petunias and zinnias are suitable for this purpose. Chrysanthemums and dahlias are growing well, and it is necessary to tie them to stakes for their heavy, topheavy stems can easily be blown over and damaged beyond repair. With strong, old clumps of both it will be wise to thin out some of the crowded growths or poorer flowers will result. Border carnations will give much better flowers if the stems are tied to stakes or wires. It is impossible to grow good flowers if the stems are able to straggle on the ground, as the flower pods will burst and earwigs and slaters will complete the damage. Try it out by keeping the stems upright.

If necessary or advisable, bulbs of tulips, narcissi, hyacinths or other spring-flowering bulbs can be lifted and either stored in boxes in the shed or replanted in another place. Any clumps of narcissi affected with eelworm should be destroyed, or, if of value, subjected to the hot water treatment —three hours at 110 degrees. The lawns are showing the effect of the hot. dry weather. Copious waterings are necessary, and a light dressing of sulphate of ammonia will help. Now is a good time to apply a dressing of either arsenate of lead or D.D.T. to control the grass grub. Similar applications should be sprayed on cinerarias. clianthus. geraniums or other leafage showing tunnel markings or holes. Watch for the odd weeds coming up amongst bedding plants. These tend to go unnoticed until their seed heads appear, and if left will cause a lot of bother. VEGETABLE GARDEN The important carrot crop should be helped with 10-day sprayings of an insecticide to control carrot fly. A dusting of sulphate of potash between the rows, lightly hoed in. followed by a watering will help to fill out the roots. Tomatoes also require regular attention. Tie to stakes as the plants grow.

keeping to single stem by nipping out all side or lateral growths. When flower clusters appear, spray these lightly with fruit-setting hormone for heavier setting of trusses. Some of the bottom leaves can be nipped off. particularly if showing rusty spots or patches. A spraying with bordeaux or Cosan will be beneficial.

Look over the asparagus bed. Sprawling stems should be staked. Compost is easily made and the benefits of its use proved beyond doubt. While you - are at it. do the w;ork properly. One of the main causes of success is a sprinkling of lime over the heap followed by a sprinkling of soil.

Sowings of carrot, beet, silver beet, turnip, lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower can be made. Carrots sown now will not take the blight like those sown in August or September. A row of peas can be sown—Massey. English wonder, or a similar early variety.

Runner beans are promising. These should be kept growing by copius waterings and poles or twine for climbing. When planting Brussels sprouts, do not crowd the plants. They are bushy growers and should be about two and a half feet apart each way. Work in the vegetable garden is more exacting and recurring than in the flower garden, as one has to look’ further ahead. That applies specially now. for however full the garden may now be with summer supplies, the winter has to be provided for and early January is the time to do this. Winter greens should be got in early and the ground previously occupied by peas or early potatoes should be in good order for such as savoy, sprouts, curly kale, drumhead cabbage, brocolli. or leeks. Celery should also be planted in the trenches previously prepared. About nine to 12 inches between plants should be allowed. Cauliflowers planted now should be ready for use in March-April. A row of early peas can be sown.

Do some thinning of rampant shoots of marrows and pumpkins. One fruit to a shoot is about the limit and the end of that shoot should be cut off two leaves past the fruit. Growing cabbage and other greens should be protected against grubs by a dusting of Derris dust. Aphis is common on them, and it can be controlled by dusting or spraying lindan£ or other insecticide. It is essential that these plants be kept clean and healthy while the young centre leaves are turning in. FRUIT GARDEN

A mild pruning of currant and gooseberry bushes can be made after fruit has been picked. On these, growths can get very dense, and it will do no harm to remove some shoots to let daylight into those left.

Grape thinning should be done, and it is wise to cut out laterals not carrying a bunch of fruit. There will be many such on the vine branches.

Woolly aphis will be showing on some apple trees and will spread quickly if not treated. A short, stiff brush dipped in red oil can be used forcibly on the colonies to good effect, as a spray may not get past their woolly natural covering. Some kinds of apples are immune to this pest, but Cox’s. Sturmer. Delicious. Wolsley. and Jonothan are good hosts to this pest.