GARDEN NOTES ALL PLANTS HAVE OWN STRICT CLASSIFICATION

Press, Volume XCI, Issue 27675, 3 June 1955, Page 11

GARDEN NOTES ALL PLANTS HAVE OWN STRICT CLASSIFICATION

[Specially Written for “The Press”!

[By

T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.I.H.,

Friday, June 3, 1955. It is necessary in all phases of botanical nomenclature that each plant shall be collected into its proper genus and given a watertight individual appelation. In this way genera are defined and further subdivided into species, and these again into varieties. We can illustrate the method by referring to the carnation which, as dianthus carophyllus, is a member of a ’big family including pinks and Sweet William. But the name carnation has come to mean the sweetest and choicest of them all, and no flower excels it in beauty of form and colour. Over the years it has been immensely improved and subdivided into classes according to markings and season of flowering. Thus we get selfs, flakes, bizarres and picotees in English border carnations, and the later flowering tree or American perpetual carnation. The English type is summer flowering. The American has been developed to bloom in winter, and it is this type that furnishes the exotic beauties of fantastic price when grown under glass. With this type there is no limit to size, form, or colour, though selfs are most favoured. The English border carnation is different, and the four types mentioned must conform closely to the colour markings, and have absolutely smooth-edged cupped petals. About 40 petals is the ideal with a non-bursting calyx or pod, for a burst pod means too many petals, and this is fatal on the show bench. Seedlings are very, prone to err in this way. FLOWER GARDEN

There is never any shortage of work in the garden and very few short cuts can be taken. Even the tidying up jobs, faithfully done from time to time, are not always complete and most home gardeners will have this fact impressed on them by observing the wrack of fallen leaves now littering the ground. Good use of these leaves can be made, of course, either by digging them in on the borders or raking up for use in the compost heap, where they make most valuable material. It is safe to say that in shortages of of artificial fertilisers recourse to homemade humus manures has demonstrated results fully up to the claims of the composters. The leaves disposed of will doubtless show spaces that can be filled to complete the display. Bulbs for spring and summer are one solution that should not be overlooked. Lilies can fill a gap better than most things, especially towards the back of the border. They can be obtained to flower from November to March—a larger season than most plants. Narcissus, hyacinths, and tulips planted in small clumps are also very desirable.

It is time all gladiolus corms were lifted, dried and stored under cover for the winter. To leave these in the ground several years is to risk reversion to a poor quality ancestor. Gladioli are liable to thus revert, especially if grown in damp, cold positions, and with good kinds the risk is not worth taking. It also gives the best chance of checking up on the existence or rust disease.

If the corms are spotted with brown, rusty spots, they should be isolated or discarded. Soaking the clean ones in a cosan or aretan bath is a very good precaution.. It is wise to be careful in saving the small cormlets as they grow very freely and can easily leave an aftermath of unwanted seedlings.

Dahlias also should be cut down and either covered with strawy litter, or put under cover.

Quite a lot of judicious thinning and pruning of climbing plants and shrubs can be done where these are getting overgrown or too high. It will often be found that cutting out one or two of the close-set or spreading branches will improve border plants without detracting from the general show. It is too early yet to prune roses, but over-strong branches can be pruned off. This certainly applies to climbing roses.

Old plants of carnations can be gone over to remove trailing long growths. Best results wil be got from close central shoots, which, if numerous, should be thinned out.

Layers put down in February should now be rooted, and can be taken off for replanting. Layering is not difficult, and is the best way to reproduce any favourite, variety. Plants of so-called tree carnations are now showing strong flower stems.

N.Z.]

with many buds on each. These should be thinned off, leaving the top buds only if good flowers are desired. If it is posible to put a cloche over the plant, the protection will work wonders.

Preparations should be made now where planting of shrubs and roses is contemplated. It will be all to the good where positions can be fixed to trench the space, adding farm manure or compost in a fifty-fifty proportion with the existing soil. This should ensure good conditions when planting is done, say in July or August. Hortnap applied at the same time will reduce many grub pests which hatch out in the soil.

VEGETABLE GARDEN Composting and tidying up should be the strong point here, for good supplies of compost will be valuable in spring.

There will -be many vacant spaces not required until sowing time in the spring. Although fallowing in Itself is good, a better scheme can be suggested. Dig over the ground without breaking down the spadefuls and thus leave a much larger area of soil ’’exposed to the beneficial effects of winter. If lime or basic slag is available to scatter over the surface, so much the better.

As an alternative to the digging, cover with a two inch layer of sawdust, much of which wil have decomposed by August. 5 Celery and leeks will benefit largely from a weekly watering of liquid manure. Both should then receive the final earthing up when the soil is dry enough. It is always wise to have a day’s supply of root crops under cover, but unless the ground they occupy is wanted for other purposes, carrots, parsnips, and beet will keep fresher in the soil.

Cabbage and cauliflower plants can be put out for use in the early spring. Endive can be planted out. This grows quickly and when blanched is a most delicious substitute for lettuce during the winter and early spring. Remove all stakes to cover. They will be needed again next season. FRUIT GARDEN If any old trees have to be removed, do so early and carry on with preparations for fruit tree planting. Root pruning to restrain over-vigorous, unfruitful growth can now be done either by opening up a trench four or five out from the trunk, or in the case of some pears, digging down and under to cut the tap roots. Do not allow dead branches, fallen fruit of leaves to lie about. Pick off mummified fruit 4rom the trees. All this should be burnt or put in the rubbish tin, not in the compost heap. Pruning of all fruit trees and vines can be started. With vines all laterals should be cut back to two eyes from the main branch and a lot of others removed entirely, for the vine is a strong grower and makes a close network if left to itself. Raspberries, gooseberry, and currants should be pruned early, burning most of the prunings as not suitable for composting. With the gooseberry, bear the picking in mind and prune off low trailing branches and many above that prevent access to the fruiting limbs. Examine the apple trees for patches of woolly aphis. A dab of red oil or methylated spirit with a small brush will settle them. See that the sprayer is effective, as it will soon be needed for the winter spraying. Look over apples in store to remove bruised or decaying fruit, for if in boxes these will quickly contaminate their neighbours. ’

Though spraying before pruning is advisable it is seldom done, and is not important where care Is taken to pick up prunings and mummied fruits for burning. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

“Inquirer”.—Your specimen is one of those half-hardy biennials not often seen nowadays, as it has few points of excellence to recommend it. It is Cosmos ecklonis, sometimes called the perennial cosmos. It would be better to keep your seeds to sow out of doors in early September. “St. James Avenue”.—(D Used engine oil is, in effect, similar to the red oil used for apple tree spraying, and can safely be used for painting cuts.

(2) Sow your Aster seed in the open early in September. (3) Open a trench on the top of the rock wall down to the plum roots, then cut the roots away to prevent damage to the rock face.