GARDEN NOTES SPRING PRUNING NEEDED BY MANY GOOD SHRUBS

Press, Volume XC, Issue 27499, 5 November 1954, Page 11

GARDEN NOTES SPRING PRUNING NEEDED BY MANY GOOD SHRUBS

IBV

T. D. LENNIE,

A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.J

Friday, November 5, 1954. It is opportune now to say something of the treatment of the lovely spring flowering shrubs. They have all the summer to perfect their show for the next year, because if pruned or shaped early, all growth left will build up, and shapeliness and habit will be improved out of sight. Many of these shrubs—apple, peach, prunus, cherry—simply need a mild shaping; but others, if left alone, soon get bare at the bottom and flower high up on gaunt branches. Brooms, erica, boronia, forsythia and tamarix are in this class. Therefore it is imperative to see that leading branches are cut out early to give the lower ones a chance to function. Tamarix are best cut back very hard as they will break from the old wood like the rhododendron or laurel. This getting bare at the bottom is of course natural to all trees, and pruning is resorted to as a means of holding their youth longer. The advice does not apply to later flowering shrubs such as hydrangea, rhododendron, azalea, and viburnum. These are stocky growers, and require only a thinning out of branches during the winter. Continue planting chrysanthemums and gladioli. Old plants of the forjner should be shortened to about knee height. This causes the production of side growths below where cut off, with a resultant loss of height which is often an advantage. Where old clumps of dahlias exist in the garden and are now shooting, much better results will be got by lifting and dividing into three or four sections. The divisions will give better flowers than the crowded old clumps. Border carnations are sending up their flower stems. These are usually

Border carnations are sending up leir flower stems. These are usually much too numerous to permit of all furnishing good blooms and a heavy thinning of them is advisable. Pinching out, say, a third of the stems, with later, the disbudding of the individual stems, will give greatly improved flower on an adequate stem. Sweet peas showing blossoms should be given a liquid manuring once a week during the season. This can be made from any farm manure, fish or artificial fertiliser, and during the growing season is unequalled as a | worthwhile stamulant. Sow hardy annuals and perennials. The former are good for border display during the late summer months. For instance, sunflower in line along the fence, nasturtiums in dry places under deciduous trees, nemopfiila, larkspur, viscaria and godetia, are typical of this promising section. VEGETABLE GARDEN

Cucumber, marrow and pumpkin are very important crops and should now be sown. While they call for much water, a well-manured soil is even more necessary. A slightly raised heap of compost material should grow them well. In cucumbers, the hardy, long green or Crystal Apple are the best to sow. Varieties of marrows and pumpkins are numerous, but the favourites with market growers are Ironbark, Queensland blue, Turk’s cap, Triamble, Golden Mammoth, and Golden Squash.

Ornamental gourds, giving an interesting variety in shape and colour, should be sown where they can ramble over some supports. Scarlet runner beans should also be sown. With these, also, there is variety of seed, but great similarity of pod. Dwarf french beans are frequently undervalued because of being sown in too hot a position which causes too quick a ripening. The same applies to peas. Many peaty soils over-rich in nitrogen will not hold moisture sufficiently so that while root and other crops do well, the legumes are failures. Liming in the early winter is one remedy. Plant tomatoes. Two feet between plants is not too much. Compost or manure will be neccessary, and when planting place a good sft stake behind each plant. They should be in a good sunny position, not under trees. Main crop potatoes can be planted. Before earthing up early plantings, scatter super or other manure along the rows. It will then be handy for the searching roots. Should the foliage turn black in spots, suspect potato blight and spray Bordeaux. Aphis are often present, but seem to do little harm.

Make sure of summer vegetables by sowing onion, silver beet, radish, cress, lettuce, turnips and parsley. Sow .sweet corn either in double rows at six inches apart or three seeds ■ at nine to 12in intervals. To obviate wind damage some form ef staking ■ can be given later. All kinds of peas should also be staked and the easiest method is by stakes and binder twine. Place the stakes in pairs astride the row and about 6ft apart. The twine can then be run along the rows from stake to stake, adding a higher line as the peas grow up. The twine can be salvaged none the worse when picking is finished. Main crop varieties to sow now are Greenfeast, Onward, and . Stratagem. This latter will grow 4 to sft and given very long podg with peas of the largest size. Sowing of winter greens is now urgent. Savoys, leek, broccoli, brussels sprouts, Scotch kale, kohlrabi, drumhead cabbage, celeriac, and swedes should be got out in January, and it takes seven to eight weeks to develop to the right size. Rhubarb and asparagus are now in season. Cutting and pulling should be regular, and if d seed head forms on the rhubarb, cut it right out from the base. Where the water supply is adequate, keep all growing plants nicely moist after removing small weds. FRUIT GARDEN Indications seem to assure a good fruit crop again this season, and it will be a pity if neglect to spray should jeopardise the crop. Many will later regret not having sprayed. Apples and pears are open to destruction by the grub of the codlin moth. The remedy is arsenate of lead sprayed now and ft month later. Raspberry canes should also be treated for the little grub which eats out the cane eyes. If you have many bare canes in your patch, this grub did the damage and those canes should be cut right out.