GARDEN NOTES FLOWERING SHRUBS NOW MAKING SPRING DISPLAY

Press, Volume XC, Issue 27463, 24 September 1954, Page 15

GARDEN NOTES FLOWERING SHRUBS NOW MAKING SPRING DISPLAY

[Specially Written for “The Press”] [By T. D. LENNIB, NJ!.]

Friday, September 24, 1954. Early-flowering shrubs rank paramount in the glories of Christchurch gardens, and at the moment the most arresting of these are the yoschimo flowering cherries in Riccarton avenue near the Hospital, and the glorious golden bill masses of the forsythias so common all over the city. There are other varieties of the Japanese cherry which, in shades bf white and pink, will continue the display for a month yet. There is little difference among the flowers of the several varieties of forsythia. They differ slightly in their habit—spreading or erect —and easily maintain their position as probably the most distinct and satisfying of our hardy early-flowering shrubs. For decorative purposes, forsythia, is invaluable, for its long shoots are thickly festooned with the beautiful bells, and last a long time in water. Results are abundantly clear now of the wise steps taken by thoughtful gardeners during the dormant season, and encouragement is thereby given to plan ahead still further, for success is always pleasing. Early spring troubles this season are insignificant, mainly caused by the favourable weather. Lengthening days and warmer weather allow of much more work being done, so that all the routine work of September can be attacked vigorously. Planting can go on at full blast. That covers shrub and tree planting, flowering plants for the borders, gladiolus, chrysanthemums, etc. It is essentially a time for looking to the needs 'of the flower border to ensure a good supply through summer into autumn, and further if need be.

Azaleas, camellias, rhododendrums, lilacs, flowering brooms, magnolias and viburnums are some choice flowering shrubs for which room may be found, for all these are worthy of a place in most gardens. Gladioli are indispensable for summer display, and can now be freely planted. The popular gladioli has a wonderful colour range, and is not difficult to grow, provided clean corms are planted. Diseased bulbs showing substantial areas of brown surface marks should not be planted. Where the disease is evident, corms should be dipped in an aretan bath. Peonies and delphiniums ai*e other perennials that are always striking and popular. Neither plant is hard to grow under good garden conditions, but delphiniums are subject to mildew in the autumn. This can be controlled by fungicide spraying. Preparations for planting chrysanthemums should be made. The range of suitable sorts is increasing rapidly. Most people concentrate on the smaller flowered class, as represented by early flowering, anemone centred, or purely decorative types, and these naturally are much to the fore, such as Beautiful Lady, Alice Dunevan, Ethel Anderson, Romance, Herbert Sutcliffe, Bronze Beauty, Edith Cavell, Enton Beauty, Trenna and Kinpauch. The large flowering show types are still popular, but successful culture of them largely depends on the provision of shelter against frost. Bedding plants can be put out, and here the choice should be governed by aspect and space to be filled. Edging plants may include lobelia, aubretia, allysum, pansy, viola, polyanthus, myosotis, Livingstone daisy, dwarf marigold, tagetes, etc. For general display the choice is very wide. But it would be wise to leave space on the borders for the later supplies of aster, zinnea, stocks, marigolds, petunias, etc., which are slower in developing. Looking ahead, it is wise to sow Iceland poppy, polyanthus, primrose, violas, gaillardias, pansies, carnations, delphiniums, and hollyhocks as basic needs for the perennial border next season.

In boxes of moist sandy soil under glass sow cineraria, calceolaria, petunia, lobelia, salvia, cyclamen, primula. Put twiggy sticks to young sweet pea plants starting to run up. They will thrive better if kept upright Slugs and woodlice can do great harm to young seedlings, therefore dust naphthalene around them. It is a good repellent of these soil vermin.

Make a point of keeping the soil loose around growing plants. It is a great incentive to growth for it conserves soil moisture around the roots. Lawn makers should be active, sowing new lawns or improving existing ones by topdressing to fill in hollows or bare patches. It should be borne in mind that the grass needs manuring like the dug ground. Poor, mossy lawns ar« generally the result of soil impoverishment.

The lilac has not lost its popularity, in spite of intense competition from Other good border shrubs. The English type in lavender and white, is noted

for its strong perfume, but as grown in the old way by root division, is not so free flowering as the French hybrids, which are budded on to privet stocks to prevent this handicap. Variety of colouring, with single and double forms are the features of this section. Then there is the Persian lilac, wrongly so-called, as it comes from China. It is a less robust grower, with smaller trusses of lilac or white flowers. All three sections are well worth attention for spring flowering. With some varieties of lilies—candidum, tigrinum and auratum—lily disease is serious. Its first presence is indicated by a browning of the young leaves, and is followed by a wilting of the later leaves and flower buds. It will be visible now on affected candidum foliage. These dark leaves should be picked off at base and the clean growths sprayed with Bordeaux or Cosan. Early control is very important. VEGETABLE GARDEN Potato planting will be possible without danger. Second early sorts will be popular, and varieties suitable include Epicure, King Edward, Cliff’s Kidney, Arran Banner, Chippewa and Aucklanders. Where early plantings are showing through, a safe precaution is to draw an inch of soil over the shoots. Keep up the green pea supply by sowing a row of Greenfeast, Onward, Dwarf Defiance or Stratagem. These although slower in developing than the first early sorts, give a much bigger pod return. Salad vegetables are also imp'ortant for present sowing. This class includes lettuce, parsley, radish, mustard and cress, endive, and turnip. All root crops should be sown to get the benefit of full spring growth. Carrot—Early Horn, Chantenay, Nantes, Manchester Table, and Intermediate are good sorts. Among parsnips, onions, and beet, there is less need for variety, individual taste going on more restricted lines. With beet, the long-shaped root is becoming more popular. Belt’s non-bleeding and Dobbie’s Purple are about the best of this type. Early cabbage and lettuce should be sown to give plants for succession planting and use about the holiday season.

Dwarf and runner beans can now be sown. There is great variety in both sections, and an interesting collection of their seeds—distinctive in shape, size and colour—could be easily made. Of at least a dozen sorts in general use, from very dwarf to the 10ft high pole bean, something can be said for all.

Asparagus shoots are showing through the ground, and it is timely to suggest the application of a nitrate of soda watering at loz to the gallon of water, to which a handful of salt can be added. Sweet corn can be sown-. Golden Bantam or Dwarf Champion. This vegetable is getting very popular and is not hard to grow, but do not crowd the plants. Seeds should be 6 inches apart. Tomato planting can be considered where the risk of frost is minimised. Those wishing to take the risk should have covering handy for a frosty night. For the same reason leave the sowing of marrow and pumpkin for a week or so.

These crops will justify a free use of good compost. FRUIT GARDEN

When stone fruit blossoms have fallen spray with lime sulphur at one in 100. This will help check spores of fruit rot and leaf curl. Of course no fruit tree should be sprayed when in blossom.

Apples may still be pruned and sprayed with red oil at one in 20. The strawberry bed should be weeded. Give plants a good dusting of blood and bone manure and cover all the spaces between with clean straw. The vine should be ship-shape as regards pruning and spraying. It will bleed if pruning is done after growth starts.

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT “Green Fingers,” St. Albans.—There is no reason why in a year or two your forsythia should not be flowering profusely as you want it to do. While young the shrub may be making too much growth without these being shortened. The forsythia, often callee the golden rain tree, flowers best on the older growths; therefore this season’s display comes on the branches made last year or in previous years, so that a judicious pruning of early long shoots would cause the desired early flowering. As for all other springflowering shrubs, pruning should bedone in October, so that the shrubs have the season ahead of them to mature growth for the following I season.