GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXVIII, Issue 26662, 22 February 1952, Page 10

GARDEN NOTES

(Specialty Written for “The Press.") (By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.RrI.H., N3Z.)

Friday, February 22, 1952. FLOWER GARDEN Most people are revelling in the warm temperatures of summer, and the plants of the garden are mainly in the same position. The season in Canterbury hasdbeen good so far, and this is reflected in the growth and appearance of most gardens. This, I think, can be attributed to the plenteous rains experienced from winter right through to mid-Decem-ber. This caused good early growth, with plenty of reserve to offset the heat of January. The main demerits of the season were undoubtedly the effects of a cold wet winter, not only diminishing crop results of fruit trees, but worse, the death of many promising young trees. Flower plants somehow escaped serious damage. It is a common comment of visitors to marvel at the high standard of display by nearly all gardens. I think this largely results from the absence of high fences or hedges, and the free planting of showy annuals and beautiful trees and shrubs. No other city that I know can approach our standard, although Palmerston North and Timaru are travelling the same road. There are still opportunities of carrying on the display into winter by planting lobelia, Iceland poppy, antirrinhium, wallflower, aubretia, geums, Canterbury bells, carnations, sweet William, and double dwarf daisies. It is often possible to make spaces for these by clearing away spent plants and foliage which generally are breeding places for slugs and earwigs. In the general plan of neatness, remove stakes and twine that have done useful service in supporting delphiniums and other plants. At the Institute of Horticulture conference in New Plymouth last week, Mrs Knox Gilmer (Wellington) made a strong plea for greater attention to the planting and preservation of New Zealand flora. It is a fact, and rather a strange one, that our gardens are deficient in showy native plants. More use could be made of coloured manukas, clianthus, veronicas, dodonea, pittosporums, plagianthus, celmesias, hinau and clematis, and the time will come when they will be more of a feature in good gardens. Summer time is grub time in the garden—when spring laid eggs develop into voracious little pests to deplete the green covering of leaves. Their presence is evidenced by holes on the leaves of raspberries, loganberries and geraniums. The black slug on cherry and peat, green looper on geraniums, leaf roller on camellias, ana the stem borer on laurels, can all be destroyed by spraying with arsenate of lead. Planting of spring flowering bulbs can be planned now, though March and April are.,the main planting months, as by then the main summer display will have passed. The lifting of bulbs, where necessary, should not be delayed, as most are dormant now, before autumn rooting begins. Where clumps of nerines, belladonnas, amaryllis or sprekelia are being grown in full sun, give them a good watering once a week. It will help the autumn flowering. VEGETABLE GARDEN It is wise to hasten plantings of celery, leeks, savoys, kale, sprouts and other winter greens, for these need a full five months to mature. Then sow seeds of an early cabbage. Flower of Spring, Greyhound,, or Wheeler’s Imperial for preference, and also a pinch of lettuce, endive, parsley, and golden turnip. Cabbage, planted a month or so ago, should be sprayed with arsenate of lead to control butterfly grubs. Shallots and onions can be lifted and sun-dried before storing. Use a fork in lifting, to prevent damage to bulbs. Pinch tops of runner beans when these have reached top of supports or fence.

Peas, when the crop is pulled, should be dug into the ground. Nitrogen stored in the root nodules will be of benefit to the next crop. Tomatoes are worth attention in tying up, nipping out side growths, and a good watering once a week with liquid manure. A handful of sulphate of ammonia or fish manure in the watering can will do the job. This also applies to other crops, such as carrot and runner beans, especially in a dry place. Yellowing of the foliage is a sign, and calls for liquid manure.

As vacant plots occur from now on, it is advisable to sow lupins, barley, or oats for digging in before spring. Lime can be scattered before sowing. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS “Appreciative,” Radley.—Your plum tree is suffering from old age and want of attention during recent years, the sending up of suckers being a result. Pruning each winter to restrain top growth, and manuring of the roots to provide nutriment, have probably been overlooked. Suckers (whith are robbers) should be carefully dug out as they appear. Next winter give the tree a thinning out of surplus overthick branches and a mulch of good manure if available. At 35 years a plum tree is by no means finished, if helped to replenish its resources. “Banks Peninsula.”—ln reply to your question as to the relative merits of Ailsa Craig and Pukekohe onions for autumn sowing, both are eminently suitable, but they have entirely different qualities. The former is a large onion, but not a good keeper. It is quite suited for home use or show bench where size is a factor. ■ Pukekohe is a type of Spanish onion, medium size, and very hard .when well ripened. It is much the better for market growing or long keeping. Autumn sowing is essential with both varieties. It allows for a full period of growth—lo months or more—resulting .in hard, well-ripened bulbs, which spring sown seed cannot hope to produce. “Domain Terrace,” Spreydon.— Footrot in onions (as you call it) is probably mildew, rather common with this crop, and very disastrous. The wet spring would be a contributing cause. It is hard to control unless taken early. The best preventive is hydrated lime and sulohur, mixed dry in equal parts, and dusted over and around the plants in early soring, with a second application in December. It is best to use a powder blower or duster. Seed from infected plants, often carries the disease.