GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 26514, 31 August 1951, Page 7

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for "The Press.”)

LBy T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.] Friday, August 31. 1951 FLOWER GARDEN

It is a fitting time to consider the position of that essential section of flowering plants known as border perennials. Often when planted they are left to outgrow their merits, unless restrained and cultivated with some judgment. This cultivation means reducing large clumps every lew years, so mat me smauer divisions nave chance to do meir best. /ipplv this policy to perennial phlox, ox-eye and Michaelmas daisies, kniphona, ins, agapanthus and campanula, and me border will be made neat again, with a far better quality of tower display during the summer. Examine ciumps or Iris styiosa and poser plant for slugs at the base of the leaves, 'these plants are favourite breeding places. After hand picking, dust lime freely through the ci owns.

Continue the planting of flowering shrubs, such as magnolia, boronia, camellias, coloured brooms, hydrangeas, azaleas, and ceanothus. Shrubs resplendent with bright berries in the autumn are a feature oi Canterbury gardens. Some of the best lor present planting include the cotoneasters. the crotengus, the viarnums, butcher’s broom, nolly, and of course, rowan and prunus. In like manner, those lovely pink and cerise flowering tfruits, cherry, irunus, apple almond, and peaen, can ie planted. They are unequalled for fence line specimens, and are perfectly hardy. Gladiolus can be planted. Before planting, corms should be freed of the brown outer coat. It is not safe to plant corms showing any proportion of brown spots, indicating the rust disease, which may kill growth before flowering time. Chrysanthemums can be lifted and divided. Choose healthy young offsets and put them out in manured positions. Discard clumps showing weax shoots, as these have probabo been impaired by eelworm or rust disease.

With warmer weather it will be possible to consider filling the border spaces with suitable plants. Delphiniums in the popular Bishop strain, also pink, can be planted. So cain gerberas, single and double lorms, Thalictrium diptericarpum and aquilegifolium, with their lovely companions. the gypsophilas, Bristol Fairy and Flamingo, which are such effective aids in flower arrangement. Perenial phlox, blue scabious, heleniums, pyrethrums and aquilegia are all indispensable plants for the border.

Finish pruning roses, and while about it remove suckers from roots, fjoing well down to the root source in doing so. Where aphis are presen spray with an insecticide. VEGETABLE GARDEN

Although the season has so far been too wet for comfort and good garden work, the chances still present themselves for going ahead with preparations for sowing, because the increasing warmth of sunshine will do much to help to dry up the ground. Tilth of soil is all important, and is dependent in great measure on the weather. It is brought about by cultivation, and means bringing the whole dug soil into a fine, friable state. Spade, hoe and rake are needed to break down the clods into minute particles, and until this is done, seed sowing is handicapped. Decide where the various vegetable crops are to go. Begin by putting down the garden line to provide a straight line, and rows can then be correctly aligned. These preliminaries are necessary in the orderly garden. Most root and leaf vegetables can now be eown. Turnip-rooted or globe beet are general favourites. Carrots in the varieties classed as short— Early Horn, Chantenay, Nantes, and Manchester table—are good; with intermediate for those looking for a larger root. Parsnips, parsley, white turnips, radish, lettuce, leeks, onions, and cabbage can be sown. Sow early dwarf peas and two or three weeks afterwards sow a good second early pea, such as Greenfeast or Onward. Potatoes can be planted, and where these were sprouted, early growth can be expected. Allow at least one foot between sets and 2J feet between rows. Under glass, whether greenhouse or cloche, seeds can be sown of halfhardy vegetables, such as celery, tomato, cucumber; also lettuce and cabbage for early plants. Rake off thick deposits of manure from the asparagus bed. and make new plantings if required. FRUIT GARDEN

Pruning should be hastened. One definite need is to cut at the right place. It will be noticed that buds are arranged spirally up the branches, and cuts should be made just above a bud or eye pointing in the desired direction. In this way the future shape of the tree can be formed—and shape has an important bearing on health and cropping. These cuts should be made at a sharp angle, and fairly close to the bud. If sizeable branches are cut. the ends should be painted with tar or fat.

Spraying is all important and the time is limited for applying at winter strength. Apples should definitely be sprayed each dormant season with red oil at one in 10. All stone fruits, also pears and quinces, showing green tip growths should be sprayed with lime sulphur at three tablespoonfuls to a gallon of water, or Bordeaux. These sprays are necessary for control of leaf curf, mildew, and brown rot. Whether grown under glass or outside, the grape vine should now be pruned and sprayed red oil at 1 in 20. Prune all laterals at the second eye from the base, and peel off old stringy bark which shelters red scale. Loganberries and raspberries are profitable to the householder. Both require pruning to remove old parts, for both bear on the growths made each year on previous season's canes. Plant fruiting trees as soon as possible. These should be well pruned back at the time. Good drainage is essential. This can be helped by burying rubble or old bricks, and in some cases raising the soil level around the trees. THE GREENHOUSE In the greenhouse much good work can be done. Seeds of tomatoes, lobelia, nemesia, Iceland poppy, antirrhinum, viola, polyanthus, stocks, and petunia can be sown. Fuchsias

and geraniums can be cut back and renotted. Maindenhair ferns are due for attention in the same way. Vines should not be tied up to the glass until lateral growths are made. Dust horticultural naphthalene along the benches and under seed iboxes to control woodlice.