GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXVI, Issue 26266, 10 November 1950, Page 9

GARDEN NOTES

(Spwieily Written for “The Pratt.”J

(BV

T. D. LUNNIE,

AH.ff.lJf.,

FRIDAY, November 10. FLOWER GARDEN Chrysanthemum planting time has arrived and should be done before the dahlia planting is begun. In spite of the vagaries of the early wipter when these favourites are due to flower, they fill such a gap that their cultivation is justly popular. Not everyone aims at big show flowers, though with a little overhead protection on frosty nights quite respectable blooms can be produced by reasonable care and disbudding, which will be dealt with later. There m great variety in small flowered pompon and singles, thread petalled, and anemone centred garden ' deftoratives and large flowered Japanese, to Sly nothing of the ever popular summer flowering which are in season from February to April. OW stools need thinning out to reduce the number of flower stalks to not more than I dozert. When growth reaches a height of two feet, stems should be nipped back to induce side shoots on which two or three good blooms could be carried. Prepare for planting dahlias by adding Compost or manure to the sites. Three feet apart is not too much to allow. Plant all kinds of bedding plants. These will revel in preaent conditions. If wanted to flower from Christmas on, plant violas, lobelia, dwarf French marigolds, nemesia, alyssum, and 10 weeks stocks. . . x It is doubtful whether any better plant for prolonged mass display exists than the pink petunia, especially if pinched in the early stages to dwarfen and restrain premature flowering. Where space allows, as in a large bed, verbenas and phlox DvummondU are equally fascinating. It will be opportune also to plant late flowering plants like asters, zinnia, salvia, antirrhinum, and marigolds. Aphis will make its appearance as soon as dry, warm weather appears. Roses attract green fly, and chrysanthemums attract colonies of black aphis. For these spray nicotine sulphate. Mildew on roses is best controlled by spraying Bordeaux or cosan. Roses in sheltered positions are more liable to attack than those grown out in the open. Lawn seeding can still be done, but should be hastened, as one week of growth in November-December is worth two in January-February. Sulphate of ammonia is an effective check on lawn weeds, and is beneficial to grass growth. VEGETABLE GARDEN Most gardens include runner and dwarf beans in the crop rotation, and the main sowing of these can now be effected. Thare are several varieties of runner beans, differing mainly in the colour of the seeds and flowers. Czar (white seed and flowers). Rajah (black seeds and red flowers) are typical variations from the orthodox Emperor or Prizewinner scarlet runnar.

Carrots, parsnips, beet, turnips, spinach, lettuce, radish, salsify, and silver beet ara other necessary vegetables for present sowing.

In another class—for those who specialise in variety—are pumpkins, squash, marrows, cucumber, preserving melon, and sweet conn. Plant tomatoes freely in weil-manurefl soil. The most serious trouble likely to be met with later is the dreaded collar rot disease, which is latent in many soils. It Is controllable to some extent by watering the soil three or four days before planting, using a formalin or disinfectant fluid diluted in the watering can. Plant main crop potatoes. There should be no need to stress the importance of this crop. Vacant areas should be assigned to this vegetable. Those with new sections contemplating lawn-making would be well advised planting the area with potatoes and making seed-sowing an autumn job. Sowing a lawn out of grassland means a heavy crop of various weeds. Without delay sow saeds of winter freens. These should be planted out in anuary for full success. Salad supplies should be maintained by sowing onion, lettuce, radish, cress, etc. Growing cabbage should be dusted with Derris. Loosen the ground between ciops of seedling plants with the hoe and water the asparagus bed with nitrate of soda at one ounce to the gallon. THE FRUIT GARDEN Continue the spraying programme. This can be shortly stated. Arsenate of lead for apple and pear trees to control codlin moth. Bordeaux powder on apples, pears, and quince, to control mildew and black spot. Lime sulphur on all stone fruit trees, to control leafcurl, brown rot. shot-hole fungus, Strengths to apply will be found on container*. A prevalent pest on Burbank plums— a black aphis—is controlled by a nicotine spray. This series should be followed by a similar spraying in about three weeks* time, because new foliage is being made, and fresh colonies' of grubs will appear. Dead twig* on peach and nectarine will be evident, due to die-back. These should be pruned off, as should also many of the older leaves showftig pronounced leaf curl. * . ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT Hazelnut, Fendalton.—(l) The specimen is a weed and should be forlfed out wherever possible, or will spread like sorreil. (2) The only way to thin peaches is by careful hand work, even if it entails stepladder or climbing the tree, for in thinning even spacing should be aimed at. Where two fruits grow together, rub off one and leave the other. Using a long pole, as you suggest, would do much damage to fruits left on.