GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXV, Issue 25970, 25 November 1949, Page 2

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press") LBy T. D. LENNIE, AJi.RJ.H., November 25, 1949 FLOWER GARDEN Considerable space on the borders can now be secured by rotating certain lines. For instance, polyanthus and auriculas do not relish being left in position on hot borders for the summer. They fall victim to red spider and many die of the heat. They can safely be lifted and replanted closely in a shaded southerly aspect somewhere in the . back garden, where they will pass their dormant season in much greater comfort. Spaces they occupied can then be made available for bedding plants, such as lobelia, Livingstone daisy, French marigolds, petunias, or ncmesia. Then, in addition, the beds occupied by narcissus or tulips can be filled with similar low-growing annuals. The foliage can be removed from these bulbs, as it has now run its course. , Late flowering plants can now be put out to carry the. display into autumn. Just consider how useful and valuable is this class, of which asters, zinnias, salvia, African marigolds, poppies, carnations, and frilled petunias form the basis. Nor ; should antirrhinums be overlooked. There is a wonderful range of colour available and. planted in colour rows, the antirrhinum is second to none for effect and beauty. The pentstemon is another plant largely neglected. It is a perennial of sturdy branching habit, making a bush two feet across and fully as high, with its 1 white-throated flowers displayed up the stems in a very attractive way. Chrysanthemums are growing strongly now. If left alone they are likely to grow over tall. This can be prevented with good effects by pinching off the stems at 18 inches high. This will cause the formation of secondary growths which will carry an increased number of serviceable blooms through the later disbudding of lower buds. Old clumps should be thinned of, say, a third of the stems

to prevent overcrowding. Dahlias can now be planted. It is advisable to provide an efficient stout stake to put in position before planting. Three stakes should be used, placed about 18 inches apart in a triangle to be used in supporting the side shoots as they develop, although the two side ones can be added later if desired. Dahlias are gross feeders needing a good leaven of compost or animal manure dug into the site for the tubers. As the plants will probably be growing strongly for at least five months, it is obvious that something of the sort is necessary if they are to maintain a good show of blossom throughout the summer. Border carnations are also asking for some protective action. It will be noticed that flowering stems are furnishing strongly, with a fat terminal bud and others showing at intervals down the stem. It is reasonable to suggest that length of stem is a vital point, therefore most of the lower buds might as well be nipped out at the beginning. Some form of support should be given the stems to keep the buds upright. Three sticks spaced around the plant, laced around with binder twine, will do the job nicely. Spraying should not be neglected. Aphis are very persistent this season and may be found on many plants such as roses, chrysanthemums, abutllons, and fuchsias. Spray nicotine sulphate at first sign of the pests. Mildew on roses may also be expected, indicated by a whitey deposit on the young leaves. It can be controlled very quickly by Cosan, colloidal sulphur, or Bordeaux. Weeds on the lawn need not be a source of annoyance. The old practice of spreading sulphate of ammonia is superseded by spraying the whole lawn with a hormone weed killer, with certain results in about two weeks. VEGETABLE GARDEN Provision of salad necessities should now be high on the priority list and, apart from the leafage class of lettuce, endive, cress, parsley, and onion, others can bel added such as radish and carrot. Tomatoes are the aristocrats of the salad bowl and no time should now be lost in planting all there is room for. The compost bin should be drawn on largely and the plants put in a spadeful to each hole. A stout 4ft stake should also be placed behind the plant. Watering should , not be overdone for the compost retains moisture much better than soil. The dwarf Tatura tomato is now very nopular and gives a surprising crop of fnedium-sized fruits. , Green peas should be provided for up to the limit also. Choose a good maincrop variety like Greenfeast. Onward, or Aiderman. Sow dwarf and runner beans, sweet corn, marrows, pumpkin, and cucumber, or if you prefer it plants of these latter three can be put out in a warm position. Do not delay further sowing of winter greens: savoys, broccoli, sprouts, etc., as these should he planted out in January. Prepare trenches for celery and leeks. There again good supplies of compost_or

well rotted manure are needed. The manure should be dug into the trench soil but compost used as the top strata in which the plants can later be planted. To guard against the possibility of carrot fly and aphis spoiling this crop, spread a thin smear of hortnap along both sides of the rows and use nicotine sulphate as a spray in addition. In composted soil these pests should not be present, or apparent, but look out for small white aphis specks on the carrot leaves all the same. Black aphis on broad beans are easier to control with the same spray. If noticed early nip off 3 inches of the top and you will catch most of the brood as the egg clusters start at the top of the stalk and work downward. The thinning of root crops—beet, carrot, parsnip, and onion—should be begun early, and can be handled in conjunction with the necessary weeding. It is not too late to plant potatoes if ground is available. Earth up previous planting, dusting garden manure along the rows before so doing. Just lately I tried an experiment with lettuce plants which has amply justified itself. Instead of planting them directly out I boxed them about 3 inches apart in good compost soil. At the end of two weeks they had recovered the shift and made good roots, and were lifted in little tufts for planting out. This is following the usual practice for flowering plants and responded in just the same way. Do not permit asparagus growths to get away. Both thin and thick stalks should be cut and used, for to cut only the thicker ones means a quicker end to the season. It can be likened to allowing sweet peas to flower while still young.

FRUIT GARDEN Something of a lull may be permitted in fruit tree spraying just at present—that is, if arsenate spraying for codlin was done recently. The regular periods for this should be the end of October, midDecember, and late January. This also applies to raspberry patches, to destroy the borer grub. Strawberries are promising, and the old practice of spreading clean straw around the plants is advisable to conserve moisture and keep the fruits clean. Weekly watering with a stimulant like fish manure or nitrate of soda, either about loz to the gallon of water would prove worthwhile. Aphis can be very destructive on these plants and it would be necessary to spray them with nicotine sulphate or the foliage may be ruined. Look out for the effects of winter-borne leaf curl and die back on shoots and laterals of peach and nectarine. Cutting off these infected shoots is the wise precaution. !