GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXV, Issue 25739, 26 February 1949, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE. AJI.RJ.H.. N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN Preparations for planting spring flowering bulbs should now be considered. Although the sacrifice of the present display of border annuals is not always desirable, in cases where space can be given those preparations should be made. Although most spring bulbs are shallow rooting and pass the greater part of the hot season in a more or less dormant condition, best results will in all cases be got from soil that has been deeply dug and fortified with compost or strawy manure. Most diggers notice how hard the subsoil settles at this time of the year, due in large measure to the evaporation of soil moisture, and therefore shallow working, unless well manured, can do no other than tend towards inferior results. One of the advantages of organic and compost manures is that they hold moisture longer. Did you ever notice how closely little roots will attach themselves to a small clod of animal manure in the soil, showing that the measure of liquid nutrient is sought ana found. Too often bulb planting is done under the assumption that the old soil is good enough for them. This is a mistake and the glories of the spring will nobly respond to careful preparation. A considerable tidying up of the flower borders can be done by cutting out spent flower stems. Plant growth suffers while seed is being produced and frequently a second flowering follows when the first crop of stems is removed; and even it this not happen it is good practice all the same. Delphiniums, oriental poppies, and roses are notable examples of the suggested practice. Climbing roses also can now be trimmed with advantage, removing some of the older thorny stems arid twiggy shoots which have flowered. It is not too late to spray the roses and delphiniums with Bordeaux for mildew, which is both harmful and disfiguring. Insects and grubs are naturally numerous at this season of the year and quickly do damage unless controlled. The popular tobacco extract is a typical insecticide. and for the grubs a poison such as derris or arsenate of lead, applied to the surface of leaf or fruit is effective. But in this case the poison preferably in a liquid form, must be applied early so that it will be in position when the caterpillar starts devouring, and Just here is where much effort is wasted. The life of individual insects and grubs is ofteh quite short and steps are taken only when real damage is apparent, such as instance raspberry stem borer, black slug on prunus, cabbage butterfly, and evon codlin moth.

Autumn sowing of sweet peas is favoured by many, and now is the time to begin operations. While a deeply dug trench of rich plant food is desirable, it is not wise to open up the trench and fill it was compost or manure without careful digging and mixing with the trench soil. In this way abundant plant food is there to develop a steady growth for months on end. It is also a favourable time for sowing in selected positions many hardy flowers. Certain annuals will flower during winter and early spring as companions to many bulbs, and perennials sown now will give plenty of young plants to fill up the borders in October or earlier, Iceland poppy, pansy, carnation, dianthus, delphinium, and polyanthus are some of these. Cuttings of pinks, viola, pansy, carnation, and hydrangea can now be put out and runners taken off violet plants or the old ones broken up and replanted. VEGETABLE GARDEN Winter cabbage planted early will now be growing apace and need protecting from the white butterfly grubs and the diamond-back moth. Either dusting with derris or spraying arsenate is effective, and should be done at intervals of three or four weeks. Before dusting the derris moisten the leaves or do it after rain, for then the dust liquifies and spreads over the leaf surface and is not blown off. Tomatoes will need steady attentiontying to stakes as they grow up, removal of side shoots, and a good liquid manuring once a week. If you have enough old compost put a three-inch covering around each plant. Cut off old bottom leaves showing yellow. Sweet corn should also be well watered once a week and secured from danger of being blown over. With these and all other growing crops, weeding and hoeing between the rows should not be neglected. It is vitally important now to prevent weeds from seeding, and their removal is a comparatively easy job in hot weather with a dry ground. Celery and leeks will require watering also. In fact the hose can be given plenty of use to all parts of the garden. Potatoes with yellowing foliage can be dug, so that a green crop of barley or lupin can be sown for digging in. This is a most valuable preparation for next season’s vegetable crop. To safeguard celery from a possible rust attack, spray with either Bordeaux or lime sulphur. The harvesting of onions, shallots and garlic can now be done where these have ripened off. Spring sown onions will not be so far advanced and can be left with the tops broken over to expedite ripening. Plant lettuce for use at Easter and sow early cabbage, perpetual spinach, parsley, radish, mustard, turnip, beet and carrot.

FRUIT GARDEN Do not be in a hurry to pick apples and pears excepting early sorts, but see that the trees do not lack water. Fallen fruits should be gathered and disposed of as leaving them on the ground is favourable to the spread of codlin moth for next season. The number of fallen fruits will be the measure of your success in spraying arsenate as advised from October to January.

Many of the old raspberry canes can now be cut out at ground level. Those to so treat will include the fruiting canes and those showing browned off leaves, it will be wise also to spray the stone fruit trees with lime sulphur at two tablespoonfuls to the gallon of water, and both raspberries and loganberries with arsenate to control late batch of stem grubs. The strawberry bed should be weeded and leading runners shortened, leaving only the one young plant nearest the bed. Some loose earth may be needed to help in rooting these. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Camby, Kaiapoi: There are two species of pomegranate commonly grown, and both are highly ornamental. The tall one, Punica granatum, does not bear fruit here but is valued for its brilliant orange scarlet double flowers. The one you describe is the dwarf form, Punicanana, splendidly effective planted near the pathway or front of border. Its height is 3ft, and it flowers very freely in late summer. Both are hardy enough for Canterbury. Beach Road, Kaikoura: for the area given, 601 b of seed should be sown. Best grasses for the purpose would be a mixture of Chewings fescue, brown-top, and crested dogstail, and the best time to sow, after the middle of March into April.