GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIV, Issue 25609, 25 September 1948, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press ”) [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN Many of the more or less tender plants can best be planted out at this season of the year, as inclement and frosty weather has given place to warmer conditions less likely to injure them. Many of them are hardy enough when given a season’s acclimatised growth. Ibis refers to some ericas, andromeda, luculia, lantanas, flowering gums, and cuphea. Many excellent climbing plants can be planted for the same reason, that their soft young growths are not so likely to get harmed. The sweet-scented white mandevillia and the colourful bouganvillea are typical good things for warm positions. Hardy climbers such as Clematis tangutica (yellow), Akebia quinata (chocolate), Ipamea leari, Solanum Hendlandi (blue), and the pink passion flower will adapt themselves to fence or trellis. Spring bedding plants can be used to fill the borders, and although rather early for the autumn flowerets—asters, zinnias, salvias, etc.—plenty of other good things are in order. For small gardens requiring mainly utility flowers, antirrhinums, carnations, pansy, hollyhock, 10 weeks stock, and Iceland poppy cannot be bettered. For large areas requiring colour displays, the pink and blue petunias are excellent. So are calendula, lobelia. Phlox Drummondi, nemesia, schizanthus, violas, and Livingstone daisy. In cool, shaded positions cinerarias are excellent. Indeed, it is extraordinary how well these plants will do away from direct sunshine when it is realised what excellent green house plants they make. To fill larger gaps on the borders the useful Paris tree daisy—colours yellow, pink, white—will give plenty of flowers till autumn, and is a useful favourite. Other things would include azaleas, the rhododendrons,, hydrangeas, and camellias. It is a good time to lift violet clumps and make new beds of- vigorous young divisions, as the old plants quickly deteriorate. Plant in an open, sunny position. Aphis or red spider may necessitate spraying with lime sulphur or nicotine sulphate. Prune early-flowering trees as they go out of blossom. This refers just now to prunus and almond. No time excels the present for sowing flower seeds, as almost any kind can How be safely put in. Plant under glass, if available, for most, and a home-made frame, with a glass sliding roof, is all that is required where a proper greenhouse is not available. The art of sowing seeds can soon be mastered and will be found very fascinating. It is necessary» to provide a light, free, sandy sop that will not cake and to sow quite thinly, and to prick out the seedlings when small. Cineraria, primula, begonia, cyclamen, pansy, .petunia, salvia, gloxinia, verbena, calceolaria, and marigolds are some of the good things that, sown now, will give abundance of plants for various use later in the, summer. Out of doors many charming annuals are best sown where they are to flower. Therefore do not sow these very thickly. This refers to candytuft, mignonette, calendula, larkspur, • godetia, viscaria, linaria, lovelies bleeding, Yiemophila, nasturtium, and cornflower.

VEGETABLE GARDEN With the. Christmas season in mind, the essentials for that season should be provided for—early peas and potatoes particularly, followed by the root and leafage vegetables. Space may restrict the selection and variety, but almost all sorts can now be sown. When early-sown peas are through the ground, sow a second early for succession, and maintain that rule while ground is available. Onward and Greenfeast are good sorts for this purpose. To scare birds from eating the seeds, try the simple formula of scattering superphosphate on the surface after sowing. It will also help the growing peas. Emphasis may also be placed on the provision of salad crops for the summer. That means the sowing of lettuce, parsley, radish, mustard cress, and onions, among others, and plants of thyme, sage, mint, and chives should be included. In warm spots tomatoes can be planted* covering them with paper on cold nights until they harden up. If there is an appearance of potatoes showing through, the best protection is a light earthing up. Sweet corn, endive, celery, celeriac, and salsify can be sown. These are all useful crops affording variety. Summer and winter cabbage can also go in; particularly golden acre, succession, and Blair's phenomenal. Scarlet runners and dwarf French beans may be sown in warm areas, and the same qualification applies to pumpkin, marrow, and cucumber, but the risk of frosts is not yet quite passed. MAKING A NEW LAWN The important part is drainage and levels. Usually the first is disregarded, but there can be no doubt about the wisdom of the latter. Continued raking to ensure a level, fine surface may be laborious, but no good lawn is possible without an effort; and the treading pnd heeling implied in the raking will find out soft patches better than a roller. When sowing a fescue lawn allow at least an ounce of seed to each square yard. The sowing should be done when the levels have been established, and operations completed by again raking over to cover the seed. BLACK SPOT ON APPLES AND PEARS This is a disfiguring disease on the fruits, and can be very serious in neglected orchards or . where damp, shaded conditions prevail, as in the shelter of high trees where the sunlight is excluded. It can largely be controlled by spraying lime-sulphur in winter time with a further spray as soon as the petals have fallen. I am reminded of the damage done, by a country reader, and gladly suggest attention to the necessity of some control. With apples it is not yet too late to apply the lime sulphur spray at 2 table spoonfuls to the gal. water, to be followed at the end of October with Bordeaux when spraying arsenate of lead for control of codlin moth.