GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIV, Issue 25394, 17 January 1948, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for ‘The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE. FJ.H., N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN In many cases the borders will need going over to remove plants that have run their course and can be removed to make room for young bedding plants to carry on for an autumn display. Canterbury bells, and antirrhinum occupy much space and are profuse seeders. Removing them affords an opportunity of digging in some form of manure before planting petunias, verbenas, asters, zinnias or antirrhinum. Perennial lupins should have the stalks cut right out, and it will improve appearances if delphinium stems are also removed and the crowns dusted well with sulphur to check mildew which can be very ruinous to these -plants. The Christmas lily—lilium candidum—has done well this season, and its spent flower stalks can be cut off about a foot above ground. This lily has only a short dormant season, so that, any intended lifting and respacing can be done at the end of the month. It is not particular as to position so long as given a free, sandy loam, well drained, in semi-shade. In planning a border display, the claims of spring flowering bulbs should not be forgotten, as the time for planting these will soon come round. Grape hyacinths where too thick should be lifted and graded to replant the larger bulbs. Very much better flowers will be the result. The residue can be planted in the back garden or under trees in the shrubbery. Advantage should be taken of any opportunity to remove suckers rising from rose plants. Standards worked on the Scotch briar are very prone to sucker. These should be followed down by scraping away the soil and the sucker cut off at the point where it leaves the root. To cut it off merely means that the sucker will shoot up again from below the cut and be worse than ever. These suckers will seriously affect the health of the plant and may cause its death in a couple of seasons. Climbing plants should have an overhaul. It is natural that much dead wood will accumulate against the supports. Removing this is really a winter job; but quite a lot of superfluous growths can be taken away now to prevent too big a tangle forming. Clematis montana, passifloras, ivy and jasmines are some that can stand a good thinning out of laterals. Dahlias are growing apace, and will justify regular attention in staking andtying. Whether one or three stakes is used will depend on size and height of the plant, but too crowded a growth should be prevented by cutting out some of the lower branches. VEGETABLE GARDEN

The planting of leeks, celery and winter greens now the paramount job that should be completed in January. For celery, a well manured trench is advisable, and the plants should be put out at nine inches apart and well watered in. The careful grower prepares the trench in advance and does it well. Leeks can be well grown on the flat, but as with celery deep digging is necessary—the bottom spit turned over and the manure or compost dug in and well mixed in the top six inches. The soil should be firmed with the spade and planting carried out by making dibble holes nine inches deep and six to eight inches apart. Drop the plants in but do nothing further other than a light watering. Fine soil will gradually cover the roots.

Savoys and other winter cabbage should be planted. These can well fill the spaces lately occupied by early potatoes and peas and some of them should be included in most gardens, for they provide table supplies at a season of scarcity of vegetables. ' Tomatoes should be watched regularly. They are making good progress, so that tying up to the stake and pinching out side growths is necessary. Leaves yellowing or below the bottom truss can be taken off. It is a mistake to allow trusses of fruit to sprawl on the ground. That may start the disease, blossom and wilt. Rather tie up to the stem or a short stick. Blotchy ripening is caused by a lack of potash in the soil, hence the importance of watering the plants with a solution of potash at loz to the gallon. Alternative vegetables for present sowing include summer spinach—perpetual spinach and silver beet for winter and spring use, golden ball turnip, and carrots, radish, lettuce, parsley and endive. FRUIT GARDEN Grubs of many kinds are thick on trees now enjoying themselves before seeking a crack in which to hibernate and become the moth on apple and pear, raspberry borer, black pear slug, and roller grub on apple and other leaves. Looper on geraniums and scarlet runners are some of the worst. They are all easily controlled by a spray of arsenate of lead at the right time. That time has now passed for effective control, but it is still wbrth sprayipg apples, pears, cherry and raspberry to prevent further damage. The roller infests camellias also, revealing his presence by sticking two leaves together. Be on the watch for signs of fireblight on apple branches and silver blight on stone fruits. If affected branches are removed in the early stage, the germs of disease may be cut off, but if given a vear in which to spread through the sap there will be no hope for the trea>