GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXII, Issue 24866, 4 May 1946, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.’’) [By T. D. LENNIE. F.1.H., N.Z.] ’ FLOWER GARDEN Bulb planting for spring should be no longer delayed. Anemone and janunculus are a popular bracket, useful and decorative. They miiy be massed, or planted in scattered clumps, or singly six inches apart as a ribbon edging at about two inches deep. With both the anemone and the ranunculus the claw or pointed side goes downward. Freesias and sparaxis, bright and fragrant, deserve a prominent, warm, sunny position. > Tulips, narcissi, and hyacinths have no special wants. A fairly rich • soil, open to the sun and rain, with a planting depth of six inches - ' should suit them. Lily-planting -time has arrived. Such varieties as Regale. Cardalinum, Longifiorum, Henryi, Tigrinum. and Speciosum should form the base of any collection. Belladonnas, Crinum Powelli, Tigridias, and Rerines are other bulbs worth noting. Violet patches should be gone over. Trim off old foliage, and make extensions from rooted side runners. Border perennials should be trimmed of top spent'growths, and divided up for replanting. Bearded and stylosa iris can be divided now. A spade or sharp knife can be used. Some useful summer flowering plants can be put out. Iceland poppies will make a good show in conjunction with bulbs. Helleborusniger is now pushing up its buds to flower next month. To get full value in longer stalks and clean white flower, erect a temporary frame round the clumps, with glass or scrim covering for frosty nights. Lawn sowing should be no longer delayed, as hard frosts are apt to ruin the work by raising the young plants out of the ground. Winter planting of roses and shrubs should be considered, and the ground dug over and manured. ’Preliminary rose pruning can begin by taking off old flowering stems and mildewed tops. Leave the fresh green growths made this season.

VEGETABLE GARDEN The asparagus bed should receive attention. Cut off and burn all foliage, loosen surface, and cover with three Inches of strawy manure or compost. Rhubarb can be treated the same. The covering not only protects the crowns, but the ground receives benefit from the manure. Tomato plants can now be lifted. Green fruits will ripen if hung up under cover. All potatoes should be dug and stored. Root crops—parsnips, carrot, and hectare best left in the ground and used as required. Celery should be given its final earthing up, also a good liquid manure waternff pumpkins and marrows are put into store the way will be clear to dig over and lime the spaces left vacant, or these can be sown in barley or peas for digging Plant lettuce and cabbage where ground is ready. These will be very welcome for use from October to December. Sow perpetual spinach, silver beet, carrot, parsley. lettuce, and early cabbage. Winter savoys and brussels sprouts will benefit by removing bottom ’ yellowing leaves, and dusting with derris. PYRUS AND PRUNUS The flowering apples and Prunus Pissardi usually provide a harvest of bright little fruit, and the question of their use profitably often crops up. There is, a feeling that these fruits are not edible, but this is misplaced, as they can be used for preserves, jelly, or wine making. Pyrus Gorgeous is the most prolific of all. Its branches will be fairly studded with clusters of highly-coloured miniature apples which make a delicious tinted jelly. Those who have access to these crab apples can use them in any way they think fit. MILDEW DAMAGE This fungoid disease has very disastrous effects, on apple and rose particularly. In late summer its/effects are very noticeable on young foliage. The spores of the disease fasten on the growing buds, and as the young leaves unfurl,

contagion is effected, with an increase in keeping with the .growth of the foliage. It is now visible as a white deposit on the leaves, making them sickly and pallid. During the dormant season, and after the leaves have fallen, infection remains on the bud tips. When sprirtg comes and the buds swell, the spores come to life and the infection goes on. Apple buds badly affected have lost the power of reproduction, and no fruits follow. This explains why some otherwise healthy trees fail to produce a crop. The remedy requires a- programme of pruning and spraying. The pruning off of all badly infected shoots is imperative. These are vsible now, and to prepare for the success of later spraying it is advisable to interrupt and eradicate the life cycle of the disease. "Begonia,” Rangiora.—Raspberry canes flowering signify premature spring growth, and wll spoil next season's crop, so had better be removed in favour of the next most vigorous canes, of which there are usually plenty in the old clumps. (2) Apparently the begonia will naturally divide and this can b 6 done with a table knife, cutting down through the tuber. This would be best done in July and August, when the two divisions could’ be potted for a fresh start. Use a good coppost soil with sand added.