IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXX, Issue 24150, 8 January 1944, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(Specially Written for “The Press") [By W, J. HUMM.)

Answer to Correspondent

“Inquirer," Leeston. —The name of the specimen is Alstromeria Pelegrina Rosea, a native of Chile. It is quite hardy. VEGETABLES

The aim of the gardener should be to have a‘supply of usable vegetables all the year round. Many people are quite successful in producing spring, summer and autumn vegetables, but are unable to keep up a succession during the winter. Quite often they fail to produce winter crops simply because they do not plant them in time to become established before winter is upon them. For winter use, vegetables must be planted at once. Remember that it is from now on until the frosts arrive that most of the growth takes place. Lay the foundation for winter supplies by planting out winter greens, such as broccoli, cabbage, kale, and savoys. Salads will be In demand from now on. All vegetables grown for this purpose should be grown quickly. Tough, stringy, half-nourished plants are of little use. When preparing the soil, dig in plenty of well-rotted animal manure to form humus, which is essential for the production of succulent growth. Should the weather be dry, do not neglect to give the plants water. Continue to sow silver beet, carrots, endive, yellow-fleshed turnips, lettuce, parsley, perpetual spinach, radish, mustard, and cress. Plant out celery and leeks. The pink kind of celery will stand more, exposure than the white kinds. A sowing of peas and dwarf beans may also be made. Lift shallots as soon as growth is matured. Much mildew is appearing in the onion crops this year. As soon as this is noticed, spray with colloidal sulphur before the mildew gets a hold, Use /it at the rate of two ounces to six gallons of water. Herbs such as sage and thyme should be trimmed over. This will remove the seeds and encourage the plants to make growth. GLASSHOUSE Freesias for early flowering should now be potted or boxed up. The soil for this purpose should consist of sweet loam, leaf-mould, and sharp sand. For pot work, six or eight bulbs should be placed in each pot. Stand the pots outside in a cool place, and cover them with boards. The boards will keep the soil moist, and will encourage the bulbs to make root growth. Root growth is most important when forcing bulbs. Unless the bulbs have developed roots before they begin to make leaf growth, the flowers will be of poor quality and will not last long. Pot up a few bulbs of daffodils and treat them in the same way. These will flower much in advance of those in the open ground. Primula malacoides should now be ready to prick off into shallow boxes. Place about ,48 in each box. When these are well, rooted they may be potted into four-inch pots, or left in the boxes to bloom. Primula malacoides and its varieties are well worth growing, They are quite easy to grow. The unheated glasshouse will suit them. When used as a cut flower they remain fresh for a considerable period. When mixing the compost for them, incorporate plenty of leaf-mould. Lime should not be used. Cinerarias should be ready to pot on in four-inch pots. When they are potted, stand them outside in a shaded position. As soon as the roots are well round the fourinch pot they should be potted into six-inch pots. Do not allow the plants to become root bound in the small pots. If this happens they will develop flower stems and bloom long before their proper time. Insect pests often worry the foliage. To prevent these from doing harm, spray with arsenate of lead at the strength of one ounce to four gallons of water. The art of growing cinerarias is to keep them on the move throughout their growing period. Cyclamen will now need potting on and the old 'corms repotted. Give these coarse soil. Mix in the compost a little cow manure and some old mortar. Sharp drainage is essential. Stand outside in a cool position. Fuchsias are now well on their way. Keep them thriving by showering overhead during hot weather. Over-potting is a mistake* When given too much root room ther plant will make rank growth and produce few blooms. The best way to keep fuchsias of good quality is to give them plenty of liquid manure. Pot on primula obconica and primula sinensia. Do not bury the crowns of these plants beneath the soil as'this causes, damping off. Pelargoniums past flowering should be stood outside in a sunny place. This will have the effect of hardening the growths from which cuttings are to be taken.

To increase the stock of geraniums, cuttings may now be taken. Use the young growing points for this purpose, as these strike more readily than those taken from the middle portion of the stem. Make the cuttings about four inches long and cut just below a joint. Do - not remove the top foliage, as these leaves will still function and enable the cutting to develop roots much quicker than if the foliage is removed. Begonias that have filled their pots with roots should be given liquid manure. Turn the plant occasionally to get even development and remove all faded nowers and seed pods. During hot weather shower them overhead when the sun is not shining. , , All established foliage plants may be given nitrate of soda at the rate of half an ounce to the gallon of water at intervals of a fortnight in summer. j There is still time to sow seed of hybrid calceolarias. Mignonette for flowering in early winter should be sown now. FLOWERS Bulb lifting and planting should now be in full swing. Although bulbs may be kept out of the ground for some time yet, none of the early flowering kinds is improved by doing this. Crocuses are amongst the first bulbs to flower in spring and should be planted without delay if they are to give'their best. ~ . Those who wish to increase their stock of carnations may do so by layering the plants as soon as they finish flowering. Layering is quite simple. Begin by removing all spindly growths and flower stems. Select six or eight of the strongest growths on the plant. Each growth should be stripped of its lower leaves to within six inches of the top. Then make an incision with a sharp knife, beginning two or three inches from the base, according to the strength of the growth. Cut straight in below a joint, and continue to cut upwards for at least one and a half inches. Have some wire pins and peg the layers into the soil. When doing so work some sand into the incision. This will keep the cut open. Work some fine mould and sharp sand round the layers that have been pegged down. Should the weather be dry, water the layers occasionally. By autumn the layers should be lifted and planted. Christmas lilies may be replanted as soon as the flower stems die back, so that they may root and make a growth of leaves before the winter sets in. As this lily does not form stem roots, plant the bulbs only about an inch below the surface of the soil. Place a layer of sand under and round each bulb to assist drainage and prevent insects from attacking the bulb. Few lilies are fond of lime, but the Christmas lily is an exception. Dust a little round each clump several times during the year.