IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXVIII, Issue 23717, 15 August 1942, Page 3

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(SPECIALLY WRITTEN FOR THE PRESS.) [By W. J. HUMMI VEGETABLES

Land which has been turned up earlier in the winter should be forked lightly over whenever conditions are favourable. Where the ground is in a cold locality do not allow calendars of garden work to lure you into planting potatoes during the present month. Only •where the soil is warm and free from frost should potatoes be planted. A better plan, if early potatoes are required. is to place the sets, eyes up. in shallow trays and expose them to the air and light in a frost-proof shed. The tubers will then push growth just the same as they would do were they planted. When these shoots have grown to about three inches long they may then be planted with safety, taking care not to injure the shoots while doing so. Early peas may now be sown. If a succession is desired, other sowings can be made as soon as these are above the ground. The yield will be far heavier, and the peas themselves superior in flavour when grown on soil properly prepared. Avoid overcrowding. . This is the cause of crops not producing the quantity and quality characteristic of the variety. Each plant must have room to develop both its roots and tops. Over-crowding is quite often the cause of diseases breaking out in the vegetable patch. Give the dwarf growing kinds at least three feet between the rows and the taller growing sorts not less than six feet. Onions need a long season to come to maturity. Get the land prepared, and when the conditions are suitable put the seed in. Where the conditions are favourable to early growth sow carrots of the shorthorn variety, as well as beet (turnip rooted), spinach, turnips, and broad beans. Sow also cabbage and cauliflower seeds. Plant out cabbage and cauliflowers and continue to plant rhubarb roots: also the herbs, saga mint, and thyme. These are useful: set them where they get full sun. Keep all growing crops on the move by hoeing them on every suitable occasion. Sulphate of ammonia dusted round the cabbages, cauliflowers, and lettuce will keep them active. FRUIT There is time yet to plant out all 1 classes of fruit trees. In the wanner localities get* this work completed as soon as possible, but Christchurch gardeners and those further south have at least three or four weeks before the planting season closes. Small fruits such as raspberries, currants and gooseberries should receive a light surface cultivation. Do not dig deeply between these plants at present as the roots are starting to grow. To each mature plant give three ounces of super and one ounce of sulphate of potash. Dust this evenly around the bushes and when the soil warms up, top-dress the plants with well-rotted farmyard manure. Strawberries will need attention. Remove all dead and decaying leaves and burn them. Lightly stir over the surface soil, and at the same time dust in superphosphate at the rate of 2oz to the square yard. Wood ash is also good. If any strawy litter is available mulch the plant with this; it will keep the soil from drying out and promote healthy root growth. In many places strawberry foliage is affected with a rust. As a precautionary measure dust the plants with flowers of sulphur or spray them with cosan colloidal sulphur, using 21b to 100 gallons of water. Spray both sides of the foliage. FLOWERS The weather is still favourable for planting. Those who have not completed the planting of herbaceous plants will find that from now until September these plants will transplant without loss. Hydrangeas make splendid plants when grown in tubs. They are very showy when in bloom, they _ flower over a long period, and they will grow in a shady position where most other shrubs would not flower. Fuchsias also do well when planted in tubs, and will flower to perfection if grown in or out of shade. The variety Riccartoni is very hardy and is effective when grown as a tub plant.