IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22269, 7 December 1937, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN

♦ WORK FOR THE WEEK [By W. J. HUMM] ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Inquirer.—Lettuce seed should be sown (1) the end of February. It takes from 10 to 15 weeks fee them to mature, according to the kind and treatment. (2) Well-decayed manure should be dug in. Also give the ground a dusting of superphosphate I at the rate of 2oz to the square yard, and nitrate of soda when the plants are well established. Use this at the rate of loz to a gallon of water once a fortnight. Bulbs—The peas are affected by a fungoid disease known as collar rot. Next year, a week before sowing, treat the soil with restar fluid. Use half a pint to four gallons of water. Use it at the rate of three gallons to the square yard. Water again the day before sowing the seed with plain water. In the meantime, give the plants an application of Condy's crystals. Dissolve half an ounce in 12 gallons of water, and give a good soaking. (2) You did not name the varieties of bulbs which refused to flower. Appreciative Reader.—The disease is known- as rose-leaf blotch. The best control for this is colloidal sulphur. VEGETABLES By now most of the summer crops are well on their way. It is time now to give attention to those required for autumn and winter use. Brussels sprouts, kale, winter cabbage, savoys, cauliflowers and broccoli should he got under way shortly. All the cabbage family heart much better if the coil is firm. Remember that tco much animal manure will cause rank leal growth, and usually when this happens the cabbages do not heart well. Lime or oyster-shell grit should be worked in the soil when preparing for any ol the cabbage family. The chief work at present is to keep up supplies b> making successive sowings of carrots peas, beans, spinach, turnips, beet, and all salad crops. . , Keep the side growth pinched out of the tomatoes. It is time now to get the celery crop on the way. Remember that the plants must have fertile soil. Quite often when the trench is made all the fertile soil !s removed and the manure is placed on the clay subsoil This is often the cause of failure with this crop. Where the soil is heavy eight inches will be deep enough for the trench. Mix some welldecayed manure in and dust one ounce of superphosphate to the yard run. before planting. Plant only young, healthy plants. Those sown too th ckly in the seed beds and half-starved are of little use. To get the best celeiy this crop must be grown from the time the seeds germinate until « fit for use without receiving a check. Golden self-blanching is quite a good early kind. Cole's Crystal White. Solid Ivory, and Clayworth's Pink Prize are reliable late varieties. I Leeks require a long season ol 1 growth and should be put in at once. It takes from 30 to 35 weeks to bring . this crop to perfection. They are gross feeders. When preparing the ioil dig in plenty of well-decayed farmyard manure. Plant out marrows, pumpkins, and cucumbers. Those P lant T c d earll <£ will be making runners. If the ends are pinched out it will cause the plants to make lateral growths. On these fruit will be borne more freely. Make a sowing of swede turnips for winter use. Before sowing dust a little superphosphate along the row. Stake runner beans and mould them up as soon as they develop climbing shoots. . . Onions are now growing well, dust a little English fish manure along each row and hoe in. This will cause the plants to bulb much better. Sow parsley for winter use. FLOWERS If they require it, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and other spring-flowering bulbs may now be lifted. Do not keep the daffodils out of the soil too long. Many of the kinds when not lifted begin to make root growth soon after Christmas. This root growth is for the purpose of developing the future flowers. The same rule applies when planting any other kind of bulbous plants. If they are not planted in time for them to develop bottom growth the flowers will be of a poor quality. The seeds of wallflowers should be sown now if they are needed for spring. Chrysanthemums and dahlias may still be planted. Gladioli are growing freely now. Keep the sou stirred frequently. During dry weather root watering will help these plants to develop long spikes of blooms. Hardy annuals sown in the open 1 borders should be thinned out or they '< will not develop good flowers. Any of the clumps of the flag iris that have grown too large may now be lifted and divided. Break the rhizomata into suitable pieces. For preference use those growing at the outer edge of the clumps, as these give better results I than those taken from the middle of . the clump. Several crowns or leads t may be taken with each piece. Before planting, the foliage should be shortened to within 12 inches of the rhizomata. This will prevent the plants being blov/n about before they obtain a root hold. In planting do not use animal manure. Old mortar or oystershell grit will suit them. Do not bury the rhizomata too deeply; just enough to anchor them. A sheltered, sunny position, in well-drained soil suits them best. There is still time to plant out French and African marigolds, zinnias, and salvia bonfire. Geraniums, too, may also be planted. The ivyleafed kinds are free flowering and attractive. Remove seed pods from lupins and perennial poppies. FRUIT To keep fruit trees in vigorous health, they should receive ground cultivation during the summer months. It is a mistake to let weeds and grass grow round the base of the trees. Weeds rob the soil of much moisture and nutriment, and they also encourage insect and fungoid pests. During dry weather, watering will assist the plants to mature their fruit. Mulching round the base with wellrotted manure will keep the roots cool, and will retain the moisture. Where trees are fruiting heavily, it is a good " plan to thin out much of the small fruit. An over-cropped tree means small fruit of inferior quality. In all cases, remove one of all twin fruit, leaving only the larger one to develop. Remove all badly placed or undersized fruit also. The best-coloured and finest-flavoured fruit is on the outside of the tree in the sun and air. Thinning fruit may not be practical in a commercial orchard, but it certainly is possible and important where only a limited number of trees are grown. Thinning also prevents overtaxing the energy of the trees, and ensures a crop yearly, instead 'of, as is often the case with heavy croppers, once only in two years. Pay special attention to insect and fungoid pests throughout the summer months. Giving the trees an annual winter dressing will not control codlin moth grub, and many of the other fungoid pests. Pear slug will soon be making its appearance in cherry trees. As soon as the fruit is gathered, spray with arsenate of lead, using it at the rate of loz to four gallons of water. The same strength will control the codlin grub. Colloidal sulphur or Shirlaw Ag. will control fungoid pests such aa leaf curl, black spot* and

brown rot. Cut out and burn al] withered foliage and branches suspected to bo suffering from fire-blight Paint the wounds with tar or white paint. Silver blight is very prevalenl this vear. Control this by removing all branches where the leaves 6evelop a silvery appearance. Burn the infected branches. SHRUBS Manukas are at present making their display. Many interesting and valuable garden plants may be selectee from this family. Although the White Manuka is a worthy garden plant when given a position that suits it, i 1 is not cultivated very much. The white, Seplospermum scoparium, var Sir George Fenwick, is the best oi the double forms. Its pure white double flowers are freely produced. Of the red-flowering kinds, Seplospermum S. Nichollsii is the best. Where a patch of brightness is needed at this period of the" year, no better shrub could be planted than this. The old pink flowered kind. L. S. Chapmanii, is quite good, and well worth planting, its large pink flowers are freely produced, and, unlike the other forms of manuka, it seldom produces seed. To obtain the best from these plants, aive them an open position where they get a full share of the sun. They will do no good if planted under trees. Remove the seed pods as soon as possible after flowering is over. The best way to accomplish this is to clip iightly off all the young growths that have seed cones on. The plants wili then develop more young growths on which will be borne next season's flowers. It often happens that the foliage of manukas is attacked by a small grub. The best control for these is arsenate of lead, sprayed at the rata of loz to four gallons! 9i yrate*>