TRAVELLING EAST

Press, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22240, 3 November 1937, Page 18

TRAVELLING EAST

High And Dry At Broome

AN AUSTRALIAN COAST PILGRIMAGE

(SPZCIAWT WBITTBX TOTS. TBI TH.XSS.)

IBy R. T. TOSSWILL.]

XXVII

'When in Broome, visit the shellpacking sheds and see something of the sorting and handling preparatory tc shipment. Get friendly with a pearl buyer" and look at pearls in "parcels" —measured in grains and caratsbought on behalf of Parisian and European buyers. These parcels contain gems varying in size from pin-heads to large sizes, many of which are mis-shapen. Listen with both ears wide open to the distinctions between drops, buttons, baroques, blisters, and ether types, and have him discourse on colour, lustre, the merits and demerits of these stones. Hear stones of individual blisters offered at a few shillings, rejected, and later found to contain a stone worth a small fortune. Hear the expert describe the construction of the pearl, layer upon layer, and the removal of a blemish by peelin" the stone as you would an onion —with a trifle more delicacy, of course. Then, when the opportunity occurs, remind him of and defend the "culture" pearls and the beautiful strings sold by chain stores at Is. ll|d a string, and wait for the explosion. Yes, one can learn a lot about pearls, but you can't acquire them. Pearl buyers must pay a licence of £20 —until recen'lv it was £so—a sure deterrent should you have acquisitive notions. Broome provided a fairly full afternoon. There is a war memorial, and the recovery of your companions handkerchief before returning to the ship. , _ High and Dry Unquestionably, the piece de resistance of Australia's illimitable northwest is seen on your return to. the shin You may have been partially prepared in Singapore As you voyage Austral-wards, you hear wondrous tales told by sailormen grown blase on the run They sound too tall, and, anyway, everyone knows how sailor-S-from skipper to cabmboy-hav-ing nothing else to do when at sea. think ud yarns for the edification of S uninitiated and credulous. We had been told that at Derby and Broome. when the tide rolled out. our 3500-ton vessel would be high and dry. Being cr-e-Dtical you think of a few. feet af water as near enough to "high and dry" and remember there is every Probability that the Ananias and Sato ra traditions have carried on to this vear of grace. On the way back, you pits and g photograph Peeling luggers stranded high upon the beach with thpir crews working around xnem. You see the m as t s and funnel of your <ThiD in. the far distance, standing upleft them— certainly not lv!n« over like the luggers. EyenSaUy. after tramping through dust Song the tramline, you arrive at the Qhnre end of the wharf, and, climbing the cattle race, which obscures the Sfw-beholdl For once sailors hadn t exaggerated. There she is, lrterauy hifh and dry, with people round her and others far out on the seaward side of her. Down from the rails I clambered and ran, establishing an unofficial record over that last furlong. The day was waning, and photographically speaking, light was on the ebb. On I scurried down 40 feet of ladder to terra firma beside the ship, and got to work. How I prayed during the rest of the voyage that time, aperture, and all the other technical paraphernalia of my camera—so little understood—were correctly functioning. Well I knew that should I ever dare to tell of what I had seen without substantial evidence in support, my name would be linked with the Marco Polos, the Cooks of polar fame, the Louis de Rougements, and other accredited liars of their respective days, who failed to bring home nice photographic pictures to illustrate their stories of adventure. Something About Oysters 'Broome may be deemed to have occupied more than its share of space, but who would deny its inspiration? Everything there conspires to make one lyrical. Even the tiny rock oysters are poetic when placed before you as oyster cocktail. And here is something else to learn. Should you ever buy oysters in Broome, you will find baby crabs intermixed with the oysters and salt water in the billy. If the crabs are alive and cheery, go to it and enjoy yourself. If you don t like the crab formula, the only other test in so hot a climate is to eat. the oysters and place your trust in God.. Dinner is over. There is nothing further to do but await the incoming tide. Steamer day is red letter day along these coasts. The inhabitants flock aboard—the passengers to the wharf, to while away, the time. Suddenly the ship jumps a foot vertically and is afloat once more. Then, as she perceptibly rises with the inflowing tide, the gangway is lowered again and again to meet the rapidly changing conditions. Eventually the whistle blows, farewells are exchanged, and off we set for Port Hedland. One learns curious things about these north-western lands. It is said that a generation or so ago the Population along these coasts and in the hinterland was greater than it is today The pioneers not only worked at their jobs but brought up their families—large families—on their holdings. Nowadays their descendants are satisfied to leave their stations in the hands of managers and congregate in the cities. Notwithstanding this drift citywards, there is still enough white population to form quite a respectable reception committee at every port where the steamer calls. (To be continued.)