IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXII, Issue 21966, 15 December 1936, Page 6

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(,SI>ECIAI.I.V WRITTEN FOR THE ITiES.O

llly'W. .K HVM M• 1

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Enquirer.—The cause o£ the yellow spot on the leaves of the tomatoes is lack of potash in the soil. Do not destroy the plants. Dusf one ounce of sulphate of potash to the square yard, and water in, or if any freshly-burnt wood-ash is available use it instead. The best time to plant out ceanothus is late autumn or early winter. Shelter. —Pinus Sylveslris has proved quite unsuitable for growing in Canterbury. It does best where there is a heavy rainfall and temperatures are low during winter.

FLOWERS

Hoses bloomed much earlier than usual this season, and in most gardens the first flowering' is over. To assist the plants to develop the second crep, attention should be given them as soon as possible. Give the plants a good clean-up by removing all seed pods. If the plants are allowed to mature a crop of seeds, it is not. possible for them to give a satisfactory second flowering. Cut those shoots which bore the flowers back to a strong eye and also remove any spindly' growth from the centre of the plants. Any dead wood should also be removed. Give blood and bone meal at the rate of 2oz to the square yard and lightly fork in. Keep the soil well stirred with the hoe. Up to the present rose pests have not worried the plants much, but from now on care will need to be taken. Green aphis is most destructive if it gets a hold. Black-leaf 40 or hot soapy rain water is effective against these pests. From now on watch carefully for the appearance of mildew. This disease attacks the foliage and young growth, and if not arrested will completely destroy the second crop of blooms. The first attack usually takes place early in the summer, but its severity is not noticeable as there is only a light growth of downy mould. Nevertheless, this is the stage which gives rise to the innumerable summer spores which will cause damage in late summer and autumn. There are several excellent means of controlling this disease, but remember that when once this disease gets a good start it is difficult to stop. Liver of sulphur, if used at the rate of .',oz to the gallon of water and sprayed on, is quite a good protectant. A second application should be given three days after the first. Cosan colloidal sulphur is also effective. Rose leaf rust may be prevented by using the same protectants as for mildew. Rose leaf blotch is often confused with rose leaf rust, though it is quite distinct. Rose leaves affected by it will develop purple blotches on the foliage. Use the same treatment as for mildew. Leaf-maggot from now on will be troublesome. The best control is arsenate of lead, used at the strength of loz to four gallons of water.

If the weather remains dry, surface mulching with well-decayed manure or stack bottom would be of the greatest assistance to the plants. If high-grade flowers are needed, do not let too many shoots develop on each plant, and as soon as the buds appear disbudding should be carried out. Reduce the number of buds to one on each shoot. This should Uo done as soon as the buds are large enough to remove without damaging the one to be retained.

Gladioli growing on light land will now require plenty of root moisture, and when it is necessary to give them water, do not simply sprinkle the surface. Give them a good drink. The next day hoe the surface thoroughly. Where gladioli are growing in heavy land, hoeing not only keeps down weeds, but it also keeps down watering. If the surface is frequently stirred moisture will be retained and healthy growth will be the result. As the plants make top growth, provision must be made against damage by high winds. Ridging the soil, as is done with potatoes, is quite effective. When only a few are grown, each plant should be staked.

There Is still lime to plant out dahlias, zinnias, marigolds, pentstemons. petunias, and geraniums. These are all splendid dry weather plants. From aquilegia out of bloom the seed pods should be removed; also remove the seed stems of the flag iris. If they require it, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and other spring-flowering bulbs may now be lifted. Do not keep them out of the soil too long. If daffodils are not lifted many of them will begin to develop roots this month, and if those lifted are kept out of the soil too long they cannot give their best next spring. Flag irises may still be replanted. Sweet peas will require careful attention. Never let the plants form seed pods, for as soon as this happens the plants will go out of business as flower-producers. The plant’s function is to produce and mature seeds. When this is accomplished, the plant has fulfilled its work and will not produce any more flowers. Mildew often attacks sweet peas at this time of the year. Should this be noticed; spray the plants with colloidal sulphur. Michaelmas daisies may be grown on the single stem system, and remove from the clump all growths but the strongest. Stake this and water freely.

VEGETABLES

Now that most summer vegetable crops are well advanced they should not be neglected. Remember that the more the hoe is applied the less the hose is needed. Frequent cultivation not only keeps down weeds, but it keeps the soil up to its work.

Stake and mould up runner beans and peas as they require it. Continue to plant cabbage and cauliflower. Continue to prepare the trenches for celery. Do not overlook the leek as a valuable winter vegetable. It is time now to get leeks in. Continue to make small sowings of all vegetables used for salad. Plant out kale, Brussels sprouts, and broccoli. When procuring the broccoli plants, remember it is the late maturing kinds that are planted now. Sow swede turnip for winter use, but before doing so give the ground a dressing of superphosphate. Keep the soil well worked between the rows of the late planted potatoes. A well aerated soil gives healthy growth and better crops. Potatoes are subject to green fly and fungoid disease if weeds are allowed to rob the plants of light and air. Pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers will fruit aM the better if sulphate of potash is given at the rate of a teaspoon to each plant and watered in. It is lime now to sow a line of parsley to replace that which is going to seed. Sow peas and beans to keep up a succession. Put in a short line of New Zealand spinach, which stands the heat of summer much better than other kinds.

SHRUBS

Carpentaria Californica is an evergreen shrub well worth consideration. Being of moderate growth, it may be fitted in either small or large gardens. Altnough this plant belongs to the same natural order as the Philadelphus. it is quite distinct in both foliage and flowers. Its home is California. Its fragrant white flowers, 2 to 3 inches in diameter, are produced on the extremities of the growths. Each terminal cluster consists of from tfiree to five flowers.

When hardy evergreen climbers are needed, lew can compare with members of the honeysuckle family for continuity of effect. The evergreen

forms will thrive luxuriantly in almost any position. Few evergreens will stand such severe pruning as these plants. Should they outgrow their positions, they may be pruned hard in, and in a few months will vegetate with healthy new growth. Most of them have sweetly scented flowers, which alone adds to their unseen charm. The evergreen forms met with in gardens are mostly natives of China and Japan. The red flowered, dark leafed species is Lonicera Clunensis. and the yellow flowered form is known as L. Halliana. These two, together with the golden variegated foliage sort, L, Japonica aureo-reticulata, are the three popular kinds. Quite recently Mr G. Skellerup imported from England a species known as Lonicera Tragophylla. This handsome climber is a decided acquistion. Except for the half hardy Burmese species, its flowers are the largest of the group. It has large coppery foliage, the flowers are bright yellow, and are produced in a terminal head of 10 to l‘j. Each flower measures 3 to 4 inches in length. The evenly spaced bright yellow flowers contrast well with the coppery foliage. This plant belongs to the same group as the English honeysuckle, and like this kind it loses its leaves during the winter.