IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXII, Issue 21906, 6 October 1936, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(BPSCIAIOMT WBITTEK POB THS PSZSS.)

[By W. J. HDMJT.J

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS New Chum—Do not give the peas sulphate of ammonia as this will cause rank growth, and as likely as not the flowers will drop off. Your best plan would be to dust superphosphate along fixe row and lightly hoe in. Use it at

the rate of two ounces to the square yard. Planta Genista—Use spent oxide of iron to destroy the broom; scatter it over the surface after rain. Oxide of lion is obtainable from gasworks. Enquirer—Do not prune Primus J3hreiana each year as it does not need it. Unless the plant outgrows its position, there is no need to cut it back. Primus triloba and the sinensis form may be " pruned each year as soon as the flowers fade. The name of the specimen sent in is Pyrus Malus Parkmanli. This plant is also known under the name of pyrus Malus Halliana. and for many years was sold as Pyrus Spectablis. The common name is Chinese flower-

ing apple. Constant Reader—The trouble with the apricot is a fungoid disease. Spray fixe tree with cosan colloidal sulphur, using two ounces to four gallons ■of water; also give the soil around fixe tree a surface dressing of lime at the rate of six ounces to the square yard.

Hoe it in. Amateur —Can find no trace of disease on fixe lilac leaves. The damage was caused by the late frost. Styx—The name of the plant is Kerria Japonica.

VEGETABLES

Because of the wet weather this spring, the soil is not at its best for the germination of seeds, especially wnere the soil is heavy. Where seeds have not germinated in a reasonable time, an inspection should be made, and if any of the seeds have rotted, there is plenty of time to resow the crop. Many seem to think that unless the seeds are put in at a certain date, the crop will not develop. This is far from true. The successful cultivation of any vegetable depends more on the condition of the soil at the time of sowing than on the date at which it was sown. Many gardens are stiu very sodden. It is bad to work land in this condition. Wait until the sou has become moderately dry. Choose a fine day and give the soil a good working with the fork. At this tune of file year, soil dries very quickly after being forked over, and if the weather is warm the soil will soon be suitable for the crops. Give the late crops a little extra attention in the way of cultivation. Where the conditions are favourable, continue to plant second early potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, and cauliflower. Artichokes should also be planted. , Sow second early peas, carrots and turnips. Any beet sown now should be of the globular-rooted varieties, which mature much before the taprooted kinds. The main sowing, which should be of tap-root sorts, should not be made before the end of October. If sown too early beet are liable to “bolt” and become stringy. Beet will be improved if 26z of superphosphate and loz of sulphate of ammonia to the square yard are forked in before sowing. , .... .. . Except in frost-free localities, it is too early to sow runner and french beans, but growers would be well advised to get the soil prepared now. Deep cultivation and plenty of wellrotted organic manure placed deep down in the trench are needed to grow these crops well. Always add lime to the soil. Keep asparagus beds free from weeds, and as soon as growth starts give liquid manure made by placing loz of sulphate of ammonia in a gallon of water. This may be watered in at intervals of one week. Sow asparagus, silver beet, kohl-rabi, leeks, celeriac, brussels sprouts, cabbage. and cauliflowers. Onions should be sown as soon as possible, for they are a slow maturing crop. Parsnips provide an excellent disn when other vegetables are scarce, and come next to the potato as a nourishing food. Parsnips are usable throughout the winter and spring, and if left in the soil or stored in sand, they may be kept until the present time. To grow parsnips well, a fairly long season of growth is required, but if they are sovyn too early where the soil is heavy they are liable to grow course and stringy. Where the soil is light, early sowing is necessary. For growing parsnips, the soil must be deeply worked. Fresh stable manure should not be used. Bone dust is .useful. Soil that was manured for a previous crop will satisfy parsnips. Work the soil into a friable condition and on no account sow the seeds when the soil is wet Parsnip seed is closed in an absorbent covering, which quickly rots. Frost injures neither .seed nor plant, but cold and moisture are fatal to the seed. Parsnip seeds are slow to germinate ana usually take three weeks before they come through. Sow the seeds in drills one inch deep in rows 15 inches apart As soon as the young plants are largo enough, thin them out so that they stand eight inches apart. If the plants are not making headway after being thinned out, dust a little sulphate of ammonia along the rows at the rate of loz to the square yard. Chives, sage, thyme, and. other herbs may still be planted. Keep up a constant supply, of vegetables for salad. All these vegetables should be grown quickly. Do not sow large quantities at a time. Make a sowing of the long-rooted variety of radish.

FLOWERS Roses Roses are making rapid growth. Keep the soil well cultivated for root air is essential if roses are to be maintained in health. Stirring the surface soil plays even a greater part than manure in the superior cultivation of these flowers. If cultivation is neglected, the manures cannot function as they should and fully half their value is lost. Green aphis is appearing and should be kept under by the spraying of plants with Black leaf 40, or other reliable insecticide. Hot water and soft soap is quite good. The water will not damage the foliage, if it is not too hot for one to bear the hand in it. If many of the young buds are removed when quite small, those remaining will develop into far better flowers. Two ounces of superphosphate together with half an ounce of sulphate of potash to the square yard, worked into the soil, will assist in maturing the flowers. Polyanthus

Polyanthuses have flowered exceptionally well this season for the damp cool weather suited them. Possibly no other spring flowering plant gives a greater effect over a longer period than the polyanthus. •If they are Elanted in groups beneath the sprmgowering trees, beautiful, colour effects may be made. Polyanthuses are of the simplest cultivation; they thrive best in partial shade and where the soil is fertile. Soil containing lime is not suit? able for them. They are increased by dividing the old plants after they have finished flowering or they may be raised from seed.

The polyanthus, like many other perennials, has not been overlooked by the plant hybridist and of late much improvement has been made, both in the size and colour of the> flowers. Seeds of these new strains are now stocked by seedsmen. The best results are obtained when the plants are sown during the present: month. They may be sown in the open ground in a semishaded position, but it is better to sow them in shallow boxes. Use free, sandy soil to which, leaf-mould has

been added. During germination, ,it is essential to keep the soil always moist. Sow thinly and as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into boxes, putting 50 plants into each box,- They should be grown on in these boxes in a shady position during the summer. By autumn, the plants should be large enough to be planted out where they are to flower. Any well-decayed organic manure is to their liking; lime or manure containing it are not helpful.

SHRUBS

• Flowering Apples At present, gardens are gay with many kinds of apples. Many of these trees serve a dual purpose. They are effective at present because of their flowers. In autumn many of them are laden with their brightly coloured fruits. Throughout September arid well into the present month, members of this family bloom at intervals. The flowering apples require only the simplest of cultivation. They are perfectly hardy and will stand exposure to extreme frost. Seldom are they attacked by blight, and the less pruning they receive the better they , flower. In fact, pruning in no way improves them. Each kind, if left to develop naturally, will, in a few years, grow into a thing of beauty. Besides the wellknown species such as pyrus florabunda and patrosanguinea, p. parkmanu and p. comaria, we have many hybrids. The best known of these are pyrus scheideckeri, and the pyrus pu£posea forms. Of these p. eleyii, aldenhamensis, and purpurea are the best known. Of recent years, many new binds have appeared and included in them are two locally raised seedlings, pyrus malus Sir Heaton Rhodes and pyrus malus Elizabeth Nairn. The former is a cross between pyrus purposea and patrosanguinea. This plant is quite distinct from all other purpurea forms, and is certainly a distinct advance in both colour and form. The tree has a most pleasing habit, the growths'are slender and semi-pendulus and the foliage is bronzy red, which appears as its bright crimson flowers open. Not only are the flowers distinct, but in autumn the slender branches are clothed with small red fruit, which remain on the tree long after the leaves have fallen.

The later form, pyrus Elizabeth Nairn, is probably , a seedling from scheideckeri. This, too, is quite distinct in habit of growth. Its many semi-pendulous branches are symetrically arranged, giving it a character quite distinct from all other flowering apples. Its beauty is perhaps greatest when half the flowers are open, the pink of the expanded flowers contrasting with the deep, rosy red of the buds. At present, this tree, is a garland of flowers. Pyrus malus lemoinei is also at present in full glory. This plant was raised in Prance and was given an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1928.- Like all the purpurea forms, the flowers are red, but in lemoinei they are larger and. brighter. When better known, this tree will be largely planted, as it is a most desirable garden plant.