WOMEN IN THE HOME

Press, Volume LXXII, Issue 21826, 4 July 1936, Page 3

WOMEN IN THE HOME

* needlework by the counted thread artistic results All good needlework is based on the principle of so many threads to a Jtitch. To attain an even and finished appearance, the stitches must be the ggioe which means that so many ffrrea'if are covered or left uncovered, wbe ther consciously counted or not 7hi3 rule holds for both plain and frnry sewing. The permissible size of the stitch varies with the material, the cotton used, and the purpose. For (jjtintr hemming, one thread is picked '* up to each stitch: for running, the n«dk goes over four and under two, or over two and under two. Similarly m backst.tchi/v , herringboning, and fancy hem*tilch ng, the stitches must be of even size and placement. From tins general rule evolves the art of embroidering by the thread or apace, which has a great fascination for die sknled needlewoman. We are thinking non- of tne embellishment of linen withovi the use of transfers. Beautiful end distinctive work can be achieved ir this way. It is work which calls upon the originality and ingenuity. developin'' at the cr.me time artistic restraint in the needlewoman. The idea in choosing the design and the stitches should be to draw attention to the beauty of the linen and the nature of the weave. In this work, quality tells. It is wise to use good materials and those which are suited to the purpose, so that thought and tur.e may be justified. In making the choice, it is essential that the linen be of rather open weave, with the tureads of warp and weft of an even -hickness. and the embroidery cotton should not oe 100 heavy. When well and correctly done, the design seems *o be worked into the linen rather ;nan worked upon it. Old bleach linens are very suitable and coton a broderie works in nicely. When the threads can be counted easily, suen stitches as cross-stitch petit point, point de riz. running stitches, punch work, backstitching, and all varieties of hand hemstitching look well and bring out the character of the linen When the material is pleasant to hold and the threads readily seen, this manner of working has a fascination which grows upon one. I: is also good discipline, needing patience and careful attention. A misplaced stitch will spoil the whole; but zfter a time- the needle seems to slip under and over without error. In tht» connexion, it is interesting to recall the needlework done 50 years sgo, when the working of texts on thin cardboard, pierced with liny holes, was fashionable. Before even beginning the task, all the letters of the alphabet were worked out on canvas, and then spaced with unerring accuracy on the fragile medium'. Our work to-day by the thread or space it much simpler. Household Linen it can be used in a variety of ways and for many purposes, chiefly, of coarse, for household linen, table linen, traycloths, waggon covers chair backs. A few bars of drawn thread work give distinction to dresses and children’s clothes. The ideal finish to any cloth on open weave linen is made by a tiny hem worked with hand hemstitching. You can vary or elaborate in any way. by introducing square hemstitching. that is. by drawing two threads, three threads below the hern and combining the two rows. Another way is to do two rows of single hemstitching *hree threads apart, or to work two rows of running stitches . in a colour to harmonise with the ‘ rest of the design between rows of I hemstitching. You can do all sorts ‘ of things with these lovely linens, the threads of which are easy to see and to draw. If you wish, you can embark on ‘he more complicated Italian hemstitching. This is very distinctive and most fascinating to work; you never want to put it down. By the nature of this stich, the draw-thread work is strengthened as the cotton 'which may be white sewing cotton) is twisted round the groups of threads and there js less wear and tear. It is ail done~by the count. Draw two threads for the hem, leave four threads, draw six threads, leave four .threads, draw two threads. The working consists of a row of double hemKilching at the outer edge. This completes the hem and fastens the six drawn threads into groups. Then the inner part is double-hemstitched, beginning at the bottom of the six threads. After two groups are worked, the cotton is thrown up and knotted round them, and so on to the end of the row. Glorified Darning Needle-running on linen huckaback is another lascinating • branch of working by the thread. In this, advantage is taken ot the groups of threads called "floats” which appear on the surface. All manner of delightful symmetrical patterns can be developed by running up and down or m and out. over these floats. There wno need for a transfer; just be imaginative and independent and work out your own ideas. It is really glorited darning. The great charm of this method of adorning huckaback towels, is that it is all “front,” no stitches need go through to the back. It can be adapted with good effect for all over work for cushions, table-runners, chair-backs Assisi embroidery may also be mentioned. This is done mostly on bleach linen and has an interesting origin, having been developed by the women of Assisi from the designs

of carvings on chests and stalls of the church in that historic place. These designs, all worked by the counted thread, consist of animals and birds in characteristic attitudes, sometimes fantastic in conception. There are little dogs gambolling, chickens lifting their heads after a drink, or preening their feathers. Other designs are of swans floating on a lake, of birds in flight, and horses galloping. There are only two stitches used in the development of these subjects; running stitches are used to make the outline, usually in black, and crossstitch in blue for the background. Sometimes these motifs are completed by a dainty framework of running stitches, or a combination of crossstitch and running in symmetrical design. It sounds very simple, but the successful execution would tax any but the patient and skilled worker. The beamy of the finished work depends very much on the texture of the linen, the thickness and colour ox the embroidery cotton used, and above all on the exactitude of tne counting of the threads. Embroidery ot this type is exacting and takes time. Perhaps only those who have done it, know the pride and satisfaction of a completed piece ox work which has been carried out entirely by the tnreaa. ft is always in good taste, invariably attracts attention, and looks distinguished.