IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXVI, Issue 20026, 6 September 1930, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN

Busiest Season of the Year PLANTING AND SOWING TIME With the advent of September comes the beginning of real gardening work, the painting of houses, the cleaning of carpets and furniture and the sharpening of the lawn mower. Even though the chill of winter still lurks in the air, one knows that Spring is peeping round the corner, awaiting an opportunity to burst upon the world in all its glory. Expert gardeners state that indications are for a late spring this year. Germination is slow and the progress of plants is tardy. The reason is a cold soil. The super-imposition of a warm atmosphere results in an excess of top growth in plants and a very poor root action. Nevertheless, the gardener, amateur and professional, now hies him to' his tool shed to see that his hoe, rake, spade and other implements are in good order and that his lawn mower is sharp. Work of all description, in the house and in the garden, awaits attention. Spring-cleaning is not the bugbear it used to be, for labour-saving appliances have banished drudgery. Many people regard this time of the year as suitable for the replacing of furniture, for painting and paperhanging. Others leave the house for the joys of motoring. But in whatever direction personal taste may lie the season is a busy one for all.

The seasons are altoring. In 1014 it was possible to start gardening on August 20th in most sections. Now it is fully September 20th before spring seeds can be put in. The question is often asked: I» this time of the year too late for the planting of roses and fruit trees! The answer is "No." The reason is that nurserymen's plants are always In a condition for transplanting much later than plants already established. ' Eose trees can be put in freely, particularly the dwarf climbing and standard "varieties. The same applies to apples, pears, cherries and plums for all but early districts. Gooseberries, currants and raspberries are also included. Planting Fruit Trees. Fruit trees should grow no nearer than 15ft apart from each other, and 12ft from a live fence. The smaller fruits should be sft from, each other, but raspberries may be spaced at 3ft. Trees should never be planted any deeper than tho soil mark on the stem as received from the nurserymen. They should be placed in the ground firmly, the roots being spread before the fine soil is sprinkled round them. The selection of varieties is best left to the nurseryman because of his experience of conditions in various parts of the city. , Although one may see some of the established shrubs and dowering plants

throwing flowers this week, particularly the Prunus pissardi (flowering plum) it is still an excellent time to put them in the ground, along with many ornamental plants such as Arbutus Unedo (strawberry tree) and Australian mint. A choice selection of native omnmentnl shrubs is being offered by city nurserymen, and their inclusion in small garden collections is valuable. Vegetable Seeds. Work should proceed this month in the direction of planting vegetablo seeds. The soil must be free and fine, and not hanging to the tools when they are being used. No seed should bo sown less than one inch deep, the large seeds, sucli as peas and beans being put down two inches. Artificial fertiliser can be sprinkled 011 the top of the ground at the rate of 141b to 80 square yards, or a light dusting can be made and, worked in with the hoe prior to the sowing of the seed. No seed should come into contact with the artificial fertiliser as it is the cause of more failures than anything else known to horticultural practice. The seeds to sow now are: Beet (both Bed and Silver and that very useful Spinach Beet), Brussels Sprouts, Borecole or Kale, Cabbage for midsummer, Carrot, Cauliflower for autumn, Cress, Celery, Lettuce, Leek, Mustard, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Radish, Spinach, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Turnip and, right at the end of this month, a sowing of tomato for the production of good, hardy plants for outside growing. Putting Down a Lawn. The sowing of lawns can be proceeded with to more advantage in September, this year, than has been the case for many years, owing to the absence of heavy frosts. The condition of the soil prior to sowing is as important in this case as the sowing of vegetable seeds. The ground must be levelled and thoroughly finished by heeling, a process involving the placing of tlie weight on one heel and transferring it to the other, proceeding across the lawn in straight lines, east and west. Then follows a raking to fill up tho depres-

sions, and the same process is repeated north and south. The seed is sown in rolled ground and raked in thoroughly, and if the ground is sandy it should be rolled again. If it is heavy and wet, as in many districts, it should not bo rolled after sowing, or the land will sot like iron, to the failure of the seed. Reliable lawn mixturos are being offered by all the leading city seedsmen at from Is 6d to 2s 6d per lb, according to the proportion of the fine grasses in tho mixture. The rate of sowing should bo lib to every 20 squaro yards. Trouble with birds can be overcome by sligtitly moistening the seed, prior to sowing, and rubbing in a little red lead. For reconditioning old lawns a thin dressing of sulphate of ammonia at tho rate of 2oz per square yard should be applied. This removes mosses, lichens and weeds, and greatly assists tho establishment of tho grass. A close cutting should follow ten days later, also a raiting with an iron rake. The final operation is n top-dressing of seed at the rate of lib to 50 square yards, rolled in. Flower Planting. It is yet a little too early to begin the sowing of hardy flower seeds in tho open. The ground is too cold and sticky. This work can be set aside until the end of tho month. For flower seed sowing a bucketful of sharp sand is necessary. For border work small circles or plots are prepared at various intervals along the border, made fine by tho removal of stones and lumpy soil. It is firmed by a board and the seed is sprinkled on top. Tho whole is then covered with a quarter of an inch of sharp sand. The resultant seedlings are thinned out in duo coureo, the thinnings being allowed to bloom where they have been sown. Half-hardy annuals may bo sown in pots or small boxes for transplanting in November, but in no case should they be set in direct sunlight, as it drives out the moisture from tho boxes ana the life from the seed. This does not infer that they can be placed on the wet side of a shed or house. They need warmth and shade for good germination. Tho half-hardy annuals includo: Aster, Lobelia, Nemesia, Papaver, Petunia, Phlox, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus and Verbena. Hardy annuals for sowing out-of-doors includo Antirrhinums, Balsam, Coreopsis, Candytuft, Carnation, Chrysanthemum annual, Dianthus, Godetia, Larkspur, Mathiola (night-scented stock), Mignonette, Pansy, Stock, Sweet Scabious, Sweet Sultan, Virginian Stock and Wallflower. Selection and Method. We now come to the question of bedding, from which, under modern nursery conditions, very line plants ore produced. These are on display in tho leading shops, and are well tiekoted and described. It is yet a little early for such things as Lobelia, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus and ABterß, but these may be put in at the end of this month. Cuttings of viola make a quick return, and this is by far the most satisfactory way to procure these useful flowers. The selection and method of planting is optional, but the choice should be made in favour of the longest period of flowering from the time of purchase. Antirrhinums, Nice Giant Stock Ic' 'and Poppy, Carnations and Petunias give tho longest supply of flower. Soft plants such as Salvia, Marigolds, Zinnia should not go in until th« end of October. Asters also are better left until that time, because they are summer flowers. If put in too early they clash with other useful flowering plants. ROSE THORNS. CAN THEY BE ELIMINATED ? Writing in the "Garden Lover," Mr H. H. Hazlewood, a well-known nurseryman and rosarian, of Epping, N.S.W., suggests that the time is ripe for hybridists to concentrate on the elimination of thorns from roses. Thorns represent a tremendous loss of time for every person picking and handling roses for decorations, and are a frequent cause of disease gaining entry to an otherwise healthy plant by means of a break in the bark caused by a thorn from a neighbouring branch.