IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LIV, Issue 16405, 27 December 1918, Page 9

IN THE GARDEN.

(specially wwrnw son "na p*«ss.")

(Br J. T. Giwclaib.) WORK FOR THE WEEKSow.' —Coleworts, radish, mustard and cress, peas, lettuce, onions for ealad, spinach, turnips, and dwarf beans. Plant.—Cabbage, cauliflower, loeks, Brussel's sprouts, savoys, broccoli, ana eariy celery. VEGETABLES. Peas. —The variety of pea put in now should belong to the second early section, as tho season is too far advanced to put in a late sort. Crops podding should be given a good soaking of water ■whenever the soil' is dry. Celery.—Varieties such as Henderson's "White Plumo, Golden Self-blanch-ing, and Veitch's Early liose, should be in good condition for planting out. Giro the soil in which the plants are growing a good watering an hour or so before lifting the plants. After lifting them carefully with a trowel, break off any side-growths which may liavo -formed. Nine or ten inches is ample space to allow between the plantG, and the soil should be made moderately firm about them in the trench. A good watering can be given after planting is done, and if a slight shade can be given for a day or two it will be an advantage. Light stakes of brushwood, laid across the trenches, will afford efficient shade, a dusting of wood ashes, given carefully a week or so after planting, will be beneficial, and the application of soot is calculated to check the ravages of celery fly, as well as stimulate the plants.

FRUIT. Layering Strawberries. —The season has not been entirely favourable for the strawberries. There was a considerable lack of moisture at the time the plants where throwing up their flower truss, urd tho late frcst spoiled a large number of the earliest flowers, and one quite expected a considerable falling off : in the quantity of. the fruit. I "We find tho tendency to allow old plants to remain for many years in the same place difficult to The young plants bear the best fruit, and .the operation to increaso the stock is an easy one. All runners should bo rooted" during the next two or three weeks, so that they can bo plantod in the permanent beds towards the middle of February. The sooner they are established the better nlants they make before winter. "When this is done, every vear, or at tho latest every second year, tho amateur will have reason to be nrond of his strawberry "patch." Tho runners are most conveniently handled when they are rooted into iTtnnll pots filled with finely soil. When the pots hnve lieen so filled, they should be distributed round the plant", about four or five at each plant. The layers can be ponged on top of the soil," when they will root downwards." A stone will serve instead of a pec, but many growers like the latter"best. The soil in the. pots must be keot moist, and -watering will have to be done every evening in hot -weather. Now, as to the kind of runner to utilise. There are scores on each plant, but only a few -which ought to be rooted. For instance, a runner will produce three

and more crowns ■which develop at intervals along the growth, but only the, first one—the one nearest the parent* plant—ought to be made use of for propagating purposes. When such has been placed in position on the pot, all the_rest should he cut away, so tnat tlio entire energy of the plant can be centred on those particular runners. It is well, also, to use onlv the strongest runners, for these make the best plants. Another point to observe is that all runners which are rooted should be taken from plants which have fruited. A further advantage is gained by plunging the pots into the ground. This keeps the roots ccoler, and also saves some trouble in watering. In place of pots, small squares of turf can be used, or the runners can be rooted into the ordinary soil. "When it is seen that the pots nre filled with roots or when well rooted into the turf or soil, cut the runners away from the old plant. I would urge upon readers who want good plants the necessity of making a special effort at this time towards getting ready a supply of young plants for next year's«fruiting. Two-year-olcH plants can be Shved and allowed to fruit again next year, but any plants which have completed their third year fruiting should be pulled out. The ground can then be utilised for other crops. WATERING PROBLEMS. All newly-planted seedlings give more or less anxiety until they have become firmly established and are beginning to grow well. By neglect or stint of watering, scores of carefuHy-nursecH seedlings may be lost in one hot day. The best possible start is given thoso small things in dry weather by soaking the soil the evening before planting; them. Thereafter water them copiously every evening while the drought lasts, and there should be little trouble.

It would bo a good thing, of course, if artificial watering were never necessary. But unfortunately the need of it docs frequently arise'during a fine summer, and it is well that the amateur should eschew the wrong and adopt the right methods when watering is urgently required. Experts will tell you to beware of the indiscriminate use of the hose-pipe, and especially of the practice of sprinkling the surface of the 6oil through a fine-rose spray. This process, they very rightly contend, merely damps the surface, and does not allow the moisture to penetrate to the roots. Some, however, are not satisfied with uttering this warning, and proceed to condemn the use of the hose altogether, and suggest a reliance on the watering-can and water which has been warmer in the sun, and a preference for rain-water. Excellent advice—if it were practicable. Unfortunately it is not. Mos.t amateur gardeners do not possess a water butt; (nor do they employ a staff of undergardencrs ready at their beck and call to and curry large quantities of water. They have not the leisure in which to do the work themselves, and they find the* garden hose indispensable.

But the hose must be usod intelligently. Jt is a mistake to water plants in bloom overhead when the sun is shining fiercely, to depend solely on the finely-rosed spray, to be content with a rriere sprinkling of the surface, and to direct a cold stream directly at the plants. Tho right methods are:— 1. To water late in the evenings. 2. To water thoroughly, so that the moisture shall penetrate Tight down to the thirsty roots.

3. To direct tho water at the soil rather than at the plants and their foliage and flowers. This suggestion applies only to periods of very hot weather. If the atmosphere be dull and cool, there is little danger of chilling the plants and causing injury by directing the spray over and upon the foliage. Indeed, the light stream will act as a cleanser of dust and insect -pests, andthe health of the plants will benefit accordingly

4. Water the garden, if it be a large onp, in sections. Completely saturito one section at a time, and repeat the process on succeeding evenings until the time conies to operate on the first 6ection again. a. Stir the surface of the soil thoroughly at frequent intervals. Hot sunshine speedily calces and hardens the surface of damp ground, and unless this be counteraeteil the plants will suffer more t 1 * if they had never been watered;