IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LIV, Issue 16208, 10 May 1918, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN.

(srECIALLT WRITTEN TOR "THE TRESS.")

(Br J. T. Sinclair.)

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT.

TT.K.-—You can shift your calceolarias into G-inch pots, using » compost mode up of three parts of u.co:\ turfv loam and ono part well-decayed stable manuic. If vou u.-o the dried cov.* manure you mention. ft less amount of it must be empJorcil than liable manure, and you would be better to add some sand' to kee» the compost open. Later on you can shift the plant into 8-inch pots. Keep close a few days pfter potting, and b« careful when applying waier. Keep near the glass all wi'iter, but look out for sudden bursts of sunshine; the foliage being tender is apt to. wilt when exposod to sudden heat. WORK FOR THE WEEK.

,s' o \v —Peas and broad beans. Plant —Cabbage and cauliflower

VEGETABLES.

Asparagus. —When quite dead tho old shoots of asparagus may be cut close to the ground and burnt, and the surface of the bod raked over and made tidy. It is a mistake to place large quantities of manure on the beds at this time of the year, especially if tho soil is of a retentive nature. It is better to wait until August- before applying a top-

dressing. Ceiei v. —Tho time has come when wo must earth-up the late celery. Before putting any soil about the plants, look over t-uein" and pull away any leaves wliich show signs of decliy;. also any small basal lea\es and all weeds. Next scatter a httlo soot between tho plants, as this is a good thing to keep away slugs and other pests lrom tho sticks. }llaen head should be tied with worsted or raffia to prevent the soil getting into the heart. The soil should be broken down finely and packed closely round tne planter Care, by-the-bv, must be taken not to so bind or restrict, the tops of tne plants that the central growth is stopped. As tlie' sticks have to bo blanched during a period of cold, damp weather, the earthuig-up of late celery needs more care than early lots. In aii cases, earthing-up should be done on a fine day. If eaxt-hed-up when wet there is a tendency for decay to set in. This decay usually commences at riie heart ot tho plant, and descends to tho base, spreading as it goes.

FRUIT. Propagating Bush Fruit. —There is no more lusciuuting work in the garden than the raising of one s own plants, trees, etc. Whether it be tlie raising of seedling plants, plants front cuttings, roses from uuddmg, or fruit trees from grafting, all iuive a special interest to tlie glower who has brought them through the various stages of growth into perfect specimens. Now is the time to propagate bush fruit. Taking the gooseberry first, wo shall find tho outsiae growtns the best. Cut them off about twelve inches in length—more, even, if the growth is a good strong one. Trim the base as you would do an ordinary cuttingT'ana remove the buds for some ten incnes upwards. This is important, for it ip necessary that each bush should bo a small standard. There is nothing more annoying than growths which spring from the soil around the bush, and this is what happens when a bud or buds are left intact on the cuttings. The tip of each_ should, also bo taken off. Red and white currants are of a similar habit to the gooseberry, ttnd the cuttings are prepared in the same manner. i

With the black currants we have a different clasw altogether, so far as habit of growth is concerned. In this case the best fruit is borne on the younger branches. Consequently it becomes necessary to maintain a stock of jounrr wood. Thus, instead of removing the buds from the lower part' of the cuttings, each bud should be left intact. Uiis is don© so that iibundimce of young growths will ultimately spring from the soil at the base of the bushes, and as those grow np the older branches can l>e removed annually, making room for the young shoots.

iScleet ;i plot of sandy soil in a shel- | torecl psirt of the garden, and insert the cuttings six inches deep, in a small | "nick" or trench taken out with the spade. Fine soil should then be placed about them, and made fairly firm. One foot should be allowed between the rows if more than one row is put in. Tlie cuttings are quite hardy and need no protection through the winter. However, the soil should be frequently loos, ened between them with the lioe, for this keeps them healthy. FLOWERS. t The Rose.—The rose may be planted any time in open weatlier from the middle of May till the middle of August; but the earlier it is done during this period the better. Planting should never be done when frost is in the air, or in the ground even in the slightest degree; nor should, it be attempted when the soil is in a sloppy state from recent heavy rainfall or thaw of snow or frost, if plants are received from the nursery at such a time when such adverse conditions prevail, they should be laid in the most sheltered spot available, and have their roots covered with earth, loosely, but deeply enough to' prevent frosts penetrating to them; thoy wiU thus bo quite safe till favourable conditions for planting come about. The rose is a very accommodating plant as regards the site it may be planted in. but, like other beautiful products of nature, it has a preference for a place in the sun with a clean atmosphere and fairly good shelter from I stormy winds. It cannot be claimed to do well where the atmosphere is smokeladen and sooty, yet very beautiful blooms cf it are obtained in rather murky atmosphere by many of its lovers. The close proximity of 'trees should be avoided, because their roots invade the soil occupied by the rose, and quickly starve it, no matter lxow well it may have been provided for when planted. The rose is so beautiful that it is worthy the best position, that can be given to it in any garden. The operations necessary prior to planting depend on the nature of the soil, and sub-soil in which planting is to be done. The most congenial 6oil for the plant i 3 sound loam of medium texture, neither clayey nor sandy. This, unfortunately, is rarely found in small gardens unless they have been well cultivated. When the soil is good all the preparation needful is trenching and manuring. Break up the bottom or sub-soil, whatever its nature may be, witl« the pick or spade, and leave it in its placc, then turn over the loam upon ii», and mix therewith manure, which should be partially decayed cow or pig dung. Either of these manures is preferable to horse dung, they being more durable than the latter; apply it liberally to the under half of the good soil only, leaving the •upper half without any manure, it being injurious to the roots if brought in contact -with them when fresh.

Other qualities of soil, such as clay, for instance, require to be mixed with gritty matter in proportion to its degree of density. Sandy or light gravelly soils resuire an admixture of clay to increase their density. Wet soils must be drained perfectly; the plant is impatient of stagnant moisture about its roots.

The preparatory operations described above should be completed some time before planting is to be done, in order that the soil may settle to its natural

density; this will require at least two weeks to bring about. Before planting examine the roots of evcrv plant to discover any that may be broken or j lacerated, autl cut them back to sound parts with n sharp knife. Do the same with the branches, cutting any that are , broken back to the first bud below the break, but prune no more of the top than this till spring is well advanced. In planting dwarf and climbers to train on walls or fences, all of which' are generally budded close to the ground, the point at which the union of ptock on seion is situated on the stem, should be placed two inches under the surface of the soil. Mako the bole wide enough to lay the roots out their full length in a natural way, cover them with a few inches finely pulverised soil, then fill in with the spade and tread firmly. The space required for most dwarf roses is not less than two feet. Standard roses should be planted just as deep as they have been in tho nursery. This can be settled by examining the base of the stem, where it will be found that the bark becomes paler in colour. Standards should be secured against disturbance by wind immediately they are planted.