IN LONELY. RUSSIA.

Press, Volume LXIII, Issue 12933, 12 October 1907, Page 10

IN LONELY. RUSSIA.

EXPERIENCES OF MISS CONSTANCE BARNKX>AT. A "COMIC" COUNTRY. imm ocb own coßiussroifDErr) LONDON, August 9. Some weeks ago I mentioned that Miss Constance Barnicoat was about to set off from London in the hope of doing some unique mountaineering in the Russian Caucasus. She has been to Russia, and has now come back to London, and I understand that she had a run of bad luck during her rather large undertaking, for she suffered from illness, which prevented her doing much in the way of mountain climbing. However, she says she will make another attempt at a future time. Miss Barnicoat was looking forward with eagerness to add some fresh ascents to her list of mountaineering exploits, but she says that illness— the first illness ot her life—attackeu her provokingly at the Toot of the heights, and prevented her trom doing anything of note. Nevertheless, this New Zealand lady can claim the distinction of having penetrated into-an exceedingly dangerous country, where no Englishwoman had over set foot before. Her companions were two Italian guides. According to her account of her experiences, which has appeared in a London paper, the little party, on crossing the frontier from Vienna, made first for Piatagorsk, a South .Russian watering place, which the traveller could scarcely denounce sufficiently. It is a place ot no drainage, no sanitation, no accommodation, atrocious tood, filthy streets, aud no security of lite or property. Robueries take place nightly, aud murders, are a popular amusement, notwithstanding tiie prevailing martial law. Leaving this wretched den with thanktulness. Miss liaruicoat proceeded by "troika" to the mountains —a three days' journey. It would have been quicker to walk, but the troika was necessary for the luggage. During this part ot the trip she. (on ground wot with the constant rain) in a tent in the open, but at the end of the three days they reached a Tartar village, and were hobpitabl> entertained at the guest-house. This is a primitive building which all Tar tar villagers of any pretensions keep just outside their own boundaries lor the entertainment of passing travellers. It has a hard, but clean, bed, and food is provided by the villuge in generoub quantity, though to the untamiliar palate it is of poor and unwholesome quality. The tea is good, but the black bread and the Circassian cheese make sad eating. Villagers, however, are extremely offended if the guest fails to do justice to the entertainment, and rather than hurt their hospitable feelings Miss Baraicoat tackled the fare with what courage she could muster. The friendly attitude of the Tartars she ascribes to the fact that ehe had no Russians (whom the Tartars hate with deadly hatred) in her party. Nevertheless, the aspect of her hcebs was not a little unnerving, for all the men carried huge knives, besides revolvers and sundry other weapons, which were disposed conspicuously. All this time the weather had been very bad, rain and storm persisting day and night; and after Miss Bamiooat had made only one ascent—of a little-known mountain—she was struck down by a chill, and |imprisoned in her tent for several days. Aβ it would have taken eight days to fetch a doctor, and the only other human beings for miles were two or three Tartax hunters, the sufferer had to manage with tho nursing • of her two Italian guides, of whos* devotion end trustworthiness she speaks highly. They were two brothers, named Peesion, members of a famous guide family. "I consider Italian guides eesentral for the Caucasus," remarked , Mies Bar- , nicoat. "French guid«e aTe., of course, , very good, but where they cannot get wine, and the food is as bad as it is , in the Caucasus, they are not nearly 2 st> tractable as the Italians." Mies , Barnicoat sufficiently recovered to be f able to push on. to Mount. Elbruz, the 1 highest summit, whose double peaks I reach an altitude of over 18,000 ft, bui i her strength was still inadequate to the task of climbing, and she had to be content with letting the guides make the ascent. In the circumstances - she though it unwise to cross the moun- i tains, far the best known of the passes c is infested with murderous brigands; ' and so th& pnrty turned , back to Piota- s gorsk. Of the scenery of the Caucasus J the terrible weather prevented the * traveller from.judging in iany cktail, \ but even in the unfavourable comU- I tions, she reports that tho mountarins are wonderfully (beautiful, once the * wy wearisome approaches thereto are c overcome. * Miss Barnicoat intends to go again, * for she learns that the illness which in- I variably attacks the traveller on the first visit seldom recurs at the second a attempt. She gained much instruc- " tion as to the anaiing state of 3hw- 1 lessness and backwardness prevailing i in Southern Russia. All foreigners I agree that the Russian in that part of I the empire has no more self-governinsr t capacity than a child. On the day « that the constitution was proclaimed f »t, one town, a soldier explained "Wβ »re free nbwt I will go and shoot my f jfficer! which he did. It was his con- ) ception of liberty, and will stand as t a type of the peasant's reasoning in \ ■southern Russia. Competent judges C iay that the country will be unsafe For Europeans' for at least another ■'' fight or ten years. Food, besides being bad, is very dear; and worse, it f ivould seem are the table manners of ■ jven tho "best people." Miss Barni- a :oat vividly described the Russian offi- t ;ers at the restaiirnnts gnawing ehioken i iones like a larger sort of dog. Then n :he quantity of "palm greasing" neces- _, '■-TV in. all walks of life- is a thing to a lespair over. Twice, on the .South t Russian "express" (so-called bocnuse it '1 iU.pt a krg tine at erery a Wiss Barnicoat had to pay 'extras" for b 'the speed of the train!"—and with- o >ut noticeable acceleration of the pace, a •ither. It is much the chenper wa3* t] r-ere to travel without a ticket: noKHly checks you as you enter the train. ° md by bribing the conductor with t! Ecirething less than the price of a **■ •icket, justice is satisfied. Men in !•■ with Russia have been known to hold " 'seasons" for years and years, having 'made it all right' , periodically with a :he inspectors. Altogether it is a P cmic country, which Miss Barnieoat annot recommend to pleasure-seekers rj