PEERS AND PEERESSES.

Press, Volume LIX, Issue 11347, 9 August 1902, Page 12

PEERS AND PEERESSES.

THE CORONATION DRESS OF THE NOBILITY.

For once Dame Fashion is deposed, and the Earl (Marshal , r eigns in- her stead so far as dictating what the lords and ladies of the British aristocracy shall wear at the Coronation. His decrees are even more binding upon his clients than those of the fickle goddess whose place he has taken, and probably for nothing less than a Coronation would British peeresses consent to obey him. For on this occasion nothing is allowed to individual taste. Every high born dame who wishes to avail herself of her privilege of witnessing the Coronation must wear crimson velvet and white, whether that combination suits her to perfection or makes her shudder when she sees herself in the glass. Yet, on the whole, seeing that the peeresses' robes are governed by precedent that has come down through the past three centuries the resulting costume might* be a great deal less handsome than it is. If they could but realise it even those ladies with whose colouring the regulation dress clashes most violently, may be thankful that matters are no worse. The most striking feature of the array of ladies w_l be the striking uniformity in dress. After all, peeresses in general, as one lady writer remarks, may well rest content with their robes, which in many cases are extremely effective. (Made of rich crimson velvet, the pure white of the miniver borders gives a relief that- saves them from all heaviness, whilst the pure white satin petticoat (which is displayed more and more as the kirtle is carried back in a wavy line that gradually retreats from the waist to the feet) is another attractive detail. In one model this petticoat was tucked with the very tiniest tucks from the waist downwards until they reached a soft frou-frou of Brussels lace ; but slight variations mEy be made in the arrangement if tbe main idea is kept in sight. But no colour may be introduced. It must be entirely of pure white. The design for the low-cut corsage is also strictly regulated. In front the white miniver is laid on from o_a shoulder W t_« other, but shaped away

below the bust: until it is about three inches wide. ,' The first of the models shown embodied the Stuart style, with uncompromising severity, and Loud was the outcry among the dressmakers and many of the younger peeresses. Queen Alexandra intervened, however, and made several suggestions, Polishing the curious sleeve of red veJvefc, cut out in soaUops and finished below the eibow with endless ruffles of lace. A small band of jewelled embroidery now passes round the aim, and the train is slung from the shoulder, while there is less fur on the bodice--no sn_.ll consideration on _*summer's day! ' To all these small details the utmost ixfiportance is attached. For the rest, there i 3 the wide train which gracefully sweeps from the shoulders to the length of a yard on the ground for a 'baroness, to two yards for a duchess, the intermediate ranks varying by a quarter of a yard the one from the other. The furred' border also varies in width. It is two mches for a baroness and viscountess, three inches for a countess, four for a marchioness, and five for a duchess. Finally, there is the handsome cape of miniver, with its rows of black powderings, which again vary in number according to the wearer's rank. And whereas a duchess will display four rows a marchioness will onLy be allowed three and a half, and the baroness two, and so on. These capes hang very gracefully from the shoulders, being fastened each side the decolletage with gold cords and tassels, and they reach to just below the waist. To crown all are the silver-gilt coronets, worn on the caps of red velvet turned up with ermine, with a tassel of gold on the top. No jewels will be allowed upon them, but the pearls are represented by silver balls, the number of the balls and their arrangement with or without strawberry leaves being regulated by the rank of the wearer. A tulle veil falls from the coronet on to the shoulders.

In addition to the coronets, which will not be put on until the Queen is crowned, the peeresses are allowed, by her Majesty . permission, to Wear their tiaras. To enable the coronet to rest upon the head, says an expert, the tiara must slope away on both sides, and be put on very forward, quite upon the brow in fact. The hair would then be dressed on the top of the head, and the coronet placed, after the Queen has been crowned, over this. The richest jewels of tihe great families of England will appear in the tiaras, many of which have beey re-made specially for the occasion. There has been much speculation, we are told, as to the dress that ladies who are not peeresses will wear for the service at the Abbey. Of course, many such will be present, as the wives of untitled Privy Councillors, judges, and colonial Premiers; while every married member of the House of Commons receives an invitation for his wife. It is now decided that such ladies will appear in Court dress, but without trains, the plumes and veils being retained in deference to the custom of afways having some form of covering on the head in a church. These ladies will, indeed, enjoy vastly more scope in the choice of rich and tasteful dresses. When the peeresses are feeling crushed and hot in their red velvet and ermine, those of less exalted degree can at least take comfort to themselves in airy chiffon and filmy gauzes. Moreover, the peeresses' robes will be useless after the ceremony, while the dress of the commoners will be availabfe with "slight modifications for evening parties and receptions. Crimso.a velvet also forms the material of the peers' robes, and as with their ladies the costume of the lords must not vary in the least The differences in rank are'denoted by fhe varying number of bars or rows of ermine on the cape of miniver. In consequence of the compulsory obedience to the sumptuary laws of the Earl Marshal, the appearance of the "respectable, ancient, and hereditary garments of their ancestors" will ]be out of the question, as a great number of. the old robes were made not of velvet, but ,of fine crimson cloth. In some instances the old robes would have presented rather an absurd appearance, as size and height are not hereditary, and in some cases the robes of the father would look ridiculous on a stalwart son, while the voluminous draperies of a tall and portly sire would completely extinguish a peer badly treated in the way of inches. Many of the representatives of ancient peerages feel, however, rather sore that they cannot, quite apart, from the question of expense, flaunt their faded hereditary robes before the "mushroom" peers. The peers have one advantage over the peeresses, that they are allowed some latitude as to the dress to be worn under the official robes. These, says the Earl Marshal, are to be worn over full Court dress, uniform, or regimentals, and over a sleeveless surcoat of crimson velvet. (The King has dispensed with the compulsory wearing of these surcoats.) Court dress offers some variety, and regimentals are extremely diverse. The peers' coronets follow the same regulations as to adornments as those of peeresses. THE COLLEGE OF HERALDS. The Kings-at-Arms, Heralds, and Pursuivants, all of whom will perform incidental duties at the Coronation, adding considerable splendour to its effect, have all had completely new outfits made for the event. The Kings-at-Arms will wear tabards or surcoats of velvet and cloth of gold, on which the Royal insignia are emblazoned. They resemble sleeveless gowns in form, but are furnished with wings which fold over the arms. Their collars will be composed of links shaped like the letter S, made of silver-gilt, with badges at the centre containing the shamrock, rose, and thistle enamelled in their proper colours. They will be entitled to wear coronets.# The heralds are to wear tabards of crimson damask, and the pursuivants tabards of satin. The King's chaplains, who are to attend the Coronation, will wear scarlet gowns. THE BARONS OF THE CINQUE PORTS. The Barons of the Cinque Ports, whose privilege it used to be to hold the canopy over the King's head during the procession from Westminster Hall to the Abbey, have | decided upon the dress to be worn by the delegates of the "Ports, Ancient Towns, and their Limbs" at the Coronation, and the King has intimated that the oostume has his approval. It will consist of a rich silk velvet coat, lined throughout with white silk, silk velvet breeches, a white silk velvet waistcoat, embroidered with flowers; all of the early Victorian period. There will be lace ruffles and jabot, and velvet cap. The robe will be made in scarlet cloth, lined with white silk, with blue velvet facings, edged with gold lace. The bars and arms of the Cinque Ports will be embroidered on the right shoulder. The Barons have been requested to carry spears, with a banneret bearing the Cinque Ports arms suspended from the top.