LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Press, Volume LVI, Issue 10270, 13 February 1899, Page 2

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Written for the Weekly Press. LONDON, December 23, 1898. In the world of fashion one of the foremost topics of the last few weeks has been founded on the subject of Lady Cunson— the beautiful wife of the new Viceroy of India —and her wardrobe—particularly the latter, and tne leading Society papers have devoted much space to the description of some of her gorgeous dresses, the like of which, in so great a number, have never been before seen or heard of. The story goes that upon his appointment to the Viceroyalty. Lord Cureon intimated to his pretty wife that he desired her to be the beet-dressed woman who had ever been out to India. Money being no object—for in her own right Lady Curron is said to be a great heiress—steps were taken without delay to carry out her husband's wish. No fewer than four of the leading costumiers in the world were called into requisition to cmrry out the-lavish and enormous order, and as a result—quite exclusive of lingerie and millinery and heaps of other little etceteras —nearly one hundred gowns were turned out. The best artists in London, Paris, and Vienna were engaged, and upon the dresses alone something between ten and twelve thousand pounds was expended. Most of the evening gowns were magnificent, rich and regal, beside possessing the great- merit of being uncommon. I am told that many of the evening bodices are very conspicuously decollete, and it is said to be a mystery—except to those behind the scenes —bow the wearer will be able to keep them on her figure. Many have no sleeves—according to present fashions, however, that is not anything out of the way —but many have not even shoulder straps, in fact, nothing whatever to connect the front of the bodice with the back. They are described as merely a corsage drapery and lock as if they were faUing off the shoulders. All, however, are not the same; for jewelled bands form the connection between the back and front in some instances. In order not to startle you too much, I will let you down gently by sending a description of the ball gown wheh cost only £200! It is said that on this dress alone*, ten women v *ere working at once. The material wai riqb, heavy white satin, and the front of'th» skirt was eabroidered in pearls, in a 'design o< rose* aad f ohage. This pattern was designed for the purpose of Matching iejM lovely point* d» Vttts* Lμ*

which draped the upper part of the skirt as well as the bodice, on which portions of the gown ten yards of it were used. Round the edge of the skirt there was also a ruffle of it, being here itself pearl-embroidered. There was a full Court train five yards in length, which was embroidered in pearls all the way up the back. The draped bodice was also trimmed with pearls and so were the lace sleeves. A narrow fall of the same exquisite lace edged the neck, while a girdle of it hung down the left side of the skirt. With this costume will be worn the famous pearl necklace, pearl chain—which cost something like £2500—and four pearl pins, the latter to be used on the top of the corsage. Another lovely ball gown was a delicate | shade of pale blue satin, with a Court train I of Liberty velvet, a material which is noted I for its thinness and at the same time ex- ; qui-ite texture. On the skirt were ruffles of 1 light blue chiffon trimed with silver. The ! train "is bordered at almost fabulous cost," i says a Society paper, "and is edged with | silver.'' The bodice is composed of alternate j rows of pale blue satin and real lace, the 1 front being ornamented with turquoises. In I this instance the sleeves "consist of a superb j fall of lace. Underneath this lace are shoul- \ der straps that are bands of silver, embroii dered with turquoise and caught in the ; centre with a turquoise buckle." Lady Curzon's magnificent turquoise pins—one surrounded with diamonds—will form her ornaments in this instance. From £200 I will still more gently lead you a step further and try to bring to your notice another evening costume v. hi :li is estimated to have cost exactly t.nce the former sum, namely, £600! it is lvmurkable for its "rare lace, web-like gauze, handwrought embroideries and trl:.*;. .i*ig grid fringe,'' as well as for its pnje. Lut ir' Princess robe shape, it is ipr.de of iaver.'le'satin and costly point d'agui.le lace ; it is trimmed with raised deep purple \fver flowers and with rich embroideries uf gr Id. mngled with buds and leaves of silk. An item which added much to the pine of this gown was the yards of fine gold fringe which mingle with the embroidery down the front of the dress. The effect over the lace is described as being "like a shower of gold." Next we come to that dress which we are told will constitute her first reception gown. It is made of beautiful white satin and velvet and rare lace woven with threads of pure gold. The skirt fits the figure closely about the 'hips, from whence it becomes very spreading towards the hem. "The front of the skirt is a ruffled petticoat of priceless lace. The sides are of heavy white satin studded with solid gold beads. The lowcut bodice is a shimmei-ng mass of real gold lace. A Court train of regal splendour falls from the shoulders, and is made of white velvet lined with pale water-green satin. The velvet is wrought with magnificent gold embroideries, all the threads of which are pure gold." It would seem that Lady Curzon has a dress of almost every colour known, for next I read of a pink silk gown which has a peculiar shaped overskirt of real Venetian lace. The skirt is a series of flounces of pale pink silk muslin powdered with golden sequins. This is one of the very decollete gowns, and it is remarked: —"There is so little of the bodice that it hardly deserves to be dignified with a name. It is a soft draped affair of mousseline and lace held in place by priceless strings of large pearls which act as bands over the shoulders. The pearls are a fit necklace for a princess. On the arms, some distance below the shoulders, appear three curious little fanlike frills of lace. Thus far, their particular connection with the gown is unknown. No one, not even Lady Curzon herself, has had the courage to refer to these frills as, sleoves." There is one more which I cannot resist mentioning, and that must really be the last if a stop is ever to be made in the description of such a wealth of finery. This is called a "chrysanthemum dinner "gown," and is "another of her vastly expensive dresses." It is a Princess robe, this time of pale bluei satin and finely-plaited cream silk muslin, elaborately ornamented with large feathery yellow chrysanthemums, and in addition the gown is hand-embroidered with rhinestoues and threads of silver. There arc strappings of rich orange velvet across the front of the skirt. The mixture may to some sound outrageous, but in reality it is not so, for only shades which blend perfectly with one another have been used. And, of course, it is almost needless to note it, all the under garments are equally remarkable and beautiful and delicate. There are, for instance, two dozen white muslin petticoats which are * one mass of lace and embroidery and tucks; a dozen pair of French corsets, a number of soft silk boudoir gowns, etc. Paterat leather shoes are among Lady Curzon's little weaknesses, and she has had a supply of boots and shoes and slippers for all occasions made to last for two years. The most beautiful of her evening cloaks is described as being an "exquisite creation of cream silk studded with big jewels. It is also embroidered with gold threads and trimmed with a ruche of real lace." If I have bored any of your readers with nothing but descriptions of dresses, I do not feel called upon to make any apology, for it is not every day that one hears of so lavish an expenditure "on superb frocks, or in fact, upon anything, and I felt that so unique an occasion ought to form a subject of deep interest to my New Zealand feminine readers. Axisa.