HOSPITALITY OF THE MAORI.

Press, Volume LI, Issue 8707, 1 February 1894, Page 3

HOSPITALITY OF THE MAORI.

A BREACH OF TAPU.

Br KoKißi.

.. Of the many good qualities in the Maori, I know of none more strictly adherred to or unostentatiously displayed than that of their—at times—almost self-sacrificing hospitality. lv the pioneer day's of New Zealand settlement the traveller bad to face difficulties, which in the nineties would appear of an almost insurmountable nature. The journey from one province to another over mountains and gullies with nothing but a faint tract for guidance was one of much vicissitude and peril. The • lovely and magnificent scenery, of the Southern Alps, the Rimutaka Paesea, the wonderful Tokaanu or Roborua Hot Springs, or the Buapehu and Tongariro volcanoes of the north, now enjoyed with so much zest and astonishment by admiring tourists from all parts of the world, were then only considered obstacles void of alj poetry. Macadamised road« and railway carriages have supplanted the Huarahi (Maori track), and snail-paced bullock teams. Splendid bridges now span the once treacherous fbrding-places where many an early settler, in the attempt; to cross, was swept away and lost.

Thenativea always displayedcomrafendablepromptitude iv ttjing to prevent such casualties, often at great personal risk rescuing tbe wayfarer, and regardless of who or what he might be, took him to their pah, where the "motherly wahine" with the utmost solicitude would tend to his wants until fit to resume the journey.

Many an instance of such generosity could be recounted which would put to shame that of the superior being* in tbeir midst, who in the natural order of things were supposed i.o elevate them from their state of barbarism, and by precept and example lead them on to light. One incident may not be uninteresting as showing the sincerity of their feelings ia respect to the" Marae." In the fifties I had recently started in business aDd was advised by some who had a more intimate knowledge of native peculiarities chan myself, never to give hama (credit) for eatables of any description, as the notions entertained by them with regard to such was in most cases, to aay the least, strange. Where a blanket, a bridle and saddle,' or such like, had been sold to them on credit, little difficulty -wax experienced in eventually getting a settlement, but when edible commodities were in question they seemed to have an indefinite idea that, as there was nothing to show for the nioney requested of them they should not be expected to part with their substantial silver in lieu thereof. Te Mo»na Nui (big ocean), a splendid specimen of hi* race, etanding about six feet high upon legs which might have been envied by a Koman gladiator, with broad square ehoulders, from which gracefully hung the blanket fastened with a shoulder knot of dressed flax, a fine shapely head, a face full of intelligence and dignity, rather improved than otherwise by the lines of tattoo (emblems of aristocracy) which curved with such artistic regularity around the defiant nostrils and aC each side of a lofty forehead, the whole figure surmounted by such a volume of hair that wearing a hat was not to him an absolute necessity. Such is a fainc description of the Chief who came to my place oue morning, with an abrupt Tenakoe Anaru, Homai he Rohi ma taku Tangata, mc nuraa, Apopo ra nei mc utu au (*' how d'ye dp, or literally, there you are, and give mc some food for my men, on credit; tomorrow I'll Not caring to positively refuse him, I thought I might adopt a line of policy, at little cost, wnicb would raise mc iv his estimation ever *»fter, and replied, Kahore Moana Nui, he kore au c numa, mauria mai he meaV mc hoatu no atu ("No Moana Kui, I don't give credit, take what you ask for, a gift from mc to you ">. Instead of accepting my offer with thanke, as I had fondly anticipated, guess my surprise and alarm wheu, bounding from bis squatting position, lie advanced close to myface, and in a thnnderihg voice shouted " What to mc is your gift ? I am Moana Nui; am I a thief? Very little would make mc send your shop, gaoda, and yourself floating down the Tuki Tuki." As the river referred to was swiftly coursing iv dangerous proximity to my oue-room a; ore, and I knew that a single word from the chief would have brought fifty or more of hie followers if it were necessary, whereas less than half that number could have performed the threatened operation with ease, I had no ambition to be launched unoii a cruise of that description and kept a very discreet eilence, while he stalked away like an enraged lion. The following Sunday mornioar I went for a ride with a young Maori—of Te M*ta !wi(the face of the nationV Mcana Nuis Pah —who had lent mc a .horse for the occasion. Returning borne at mid-day my friend asked mc so come and have some dinner. Having a certain amount of misgiving a« to the pp-obable nature of my re- j ceptionif laccepfed his invitation, I informed him of my being in di-jgrace with the chief. His answer was, *• If you wish to keep up his anger, don't come." I went, say, ate, and conquered. The meal not being quite ready, I was regaled by the ever thoughtfully warmhearted women with some delicious water melons, in a whare opposite to where the chief eat in the midst of bis elders of the tribe, apparently ignoring my presence. The diuner, consisting of meat, potatoes, pumpkin, &c, was brought to the various kainga (eating places) in large cut duhee, mkulU, totk and plate-seemingly the J

only ones in requisition—nice and clean, were placed on a mat before mc, the flrsc dish being presented for the purpose of helping myself. Upon the accomplishment of this part of the ceremony. Te Moana Nui called oat, " Has the pakeha taken food ?** The fair waitress answered in the affirmative, when the chief again cries " Teoa," or " Go on," which Iβ obeyed with alacrity. I am sorry to say that this ordinary acfc of generosity on the part of the Maori was only too frequently abused. Occasional recipients, the scorn' of society, gave full scope to their brutal proclivities, taking advantage of the good nature of their hosts by acting in a manner not deecribable without transgresHing the laws of decency, thereby creating in the aboriginal mind a very low estimate of European gratitude or morality, and often arousing bitter feelings of animosity against the whites in general. The next time I met H.B.H. Tβ Moana Nui we shook hand*, the status quo was once more as completely established as if nothing had ever transpired to disturb our peaceful relations, and I was happy. Another peculiarity of the aboriginal, and one which often led to curious, and sometimes serious, complications, is their observance of He Tapu (sacred, reverend). The burial places of their great warriors were so strictly tapu that many a venturesome explorer or amateur eketcher bus been withiu an ace of losing his life by incautiously overstepping the aukati boundary) of some such pkce. The head of a chief in the flesh is very much tapu ; in fact that portion of the Maori anatomy is considered too sacred to be even referred to in conversation. To opoko (your Head) would be taken as an insult, but to add to opoko he kai raaku (equivalent to expressing a desire to have it as a side dish) would be sufficient to cause a declaration of war right off. Natives having daily intercourse with the Europeans were not so scrupulous regarding the verbal application of the tapu as the inland tribes. One incident in this connection which occurred to myself was of rather a tragic nature. Tribes had been invited from all parts of New Zealand for the purpose of honouring the remains of ray friend the great Moana Nui. Amongst the many hapu* represented upon this occasion the Uriwera were the most savage and uncivilised, retaining all their ancient customs, cannibalism excepted. After the funeral war dances and the various attendant formulae had been concluded, many of the younger men took a turn round the town of Waipureku for the purpose of iuspecting the wonders of be mahi pakeha (the whlteman's work) previous to returning to their distant mountain homes. Of the various commodities provided for the tanei (mourning, weeping) they had a superabundance of Negro-head tobacco, which some were endeavouriug to barter for provisions necessary on the journey. One morning a vigorous lookiug young Uriwera, attired in the usual kakahu (mat) with a monkey jacket over all—the latter article no douDt worn out of respect to civilisation, adding little, however, to the improvement oi his general appearance. Standing in front of my door with a look of pleased astonishment at my work, excluimed "Tana Mahi" (his work) signifying surprise. Wishing to air my knowledge of the Maori language, I eaid, in as humourous a manner as possible "To opoko " (your head). Instantly his face assumed a fierce expression, "Mote aha to korero kinoki a au?"(why your bud talk co mc?) he ehouted, jumping back a puce or two, his stature seeming to dilate with hU anger. Not wishing to create a disturbance, and with the intention of trying to mollity him-by showing that I was ouly joking, I repeated laughingly, "To opoko he kal maku" (your head for my food). I had practised as a linguist among the semi-civilised in a like manner before, and with a happy result, but this time I had overshot the mark and raised.a st,orm in earnest. The savage danced about in front of the house, picked up an axe which was at hand, and flourishing it over his head requested mc to come out and " Kua patu ai kite toki" (get struck or killed with the axe). Not having my will made out, together witn a few other minor considerations, decided mc not to accept the invitation, but I took the precaution for defensive purposes to arm myself with a piece of firewood of nubstautial size, and call my dog. Now Bosun was of the bull-dog breed, and being the principal actor in this drama, is worthy of a descriptive line or two. He was cream-coloured, brown muzzled, eyes of a golden hue which fairly blazed when anythingha'ppened to rufflehiaequanlmlty. He was-btie -favourite, dog, of Waipareku. His perpetuandisplay of under teeth, when in repose, gave the impression that he was laughing, but when angry had a decidedly formidable appearance. He could do anything in reason—don't condemn the expression yet—retrieve wild duck, catch pigs, goats, bullocks, swim through the roughest surf in the roadstead, or stem the torrentof thefreshet-swollen river to secure anything pointed out to him. So show his sagacity one instance will suffice. During one of the periodical floods in the Tuki Tuki I and another put off in a canoe for the purpose of recovering various objects which were floating past. Our skill in the management of the frail crafc being about on a par with our better part of valour, the only paddle slipped overboard and we went drifting on towards the estuary, where the boiling breakers and swiftly-ruehing rivers met, and to reach which meant certain Bosun was on the Bank eyeing us. I called him; he took the situation in at a glance, aud scampering along the river edge dashed in to our relief, swimmiug downwards so as to intercept our course. He arrived alongside ere we had entered the strongest part of the current; I threw the tow-rope over and said, "Take it back, lad," which he did right valiantly, and we were saved. If that was not reason I anvloat for an expression. But to return to our Uriwera friend, I may say thac Bosun bad been very care, fully trained not to idulge in Maori flesh unless by positive orders; the Maoris were my'best customers, and he seemed to be aware of the fact. At my call Bosun came trotting in past the infuriated native, cocking his ears and icokiug from mc to my besieger until I eaid, " Look out, lad," when he turned towards the Maori with a deep growl. Now, if 1 here was anything which thoroughly scared the aboriginal of that time it was a "bulldog," but especially one such as mine. When the eavage saw the dog makiug for him he dropped the axe; and without even saying good bye, went as faetae he could leyr it, but Bosun was not going to let him off so easily. He had orders to put him off and he did; across the clearing in the direction of the pah literally flew the Uriwera, giving full vent to hie lung power, with Bosun hanging ou to his nether* garments or otherwise—l could not tell—for about a quarter of a mile. I whistled again and again, 'twas of no use, still he held on until he had either lost hie hold—which I knew, from experience, was seldom the case—or the piece had come out. Then he heard mc and reluctantly returned—the Maori by his unearthly yells had drowned the sound of my whistle. As Bosun came back I saw thac he had a mouthful of something which was evidently not to his liking. Upon examination, I found traces of Maori mat and monkey jacket, which for half an hour he was trying, ac much as any quadruped could, to expectorate, every now and then casting an upward glance of disgust at me,.which plainly meant, "A nice treat this!" That Maori never returned for his lout ■" kakahu," and I am pleased to be in a position to add that our acquaintance was never aiterwards renewed.