THE CONDITION OF PARIS.

Press, Volume XVIII, Issue 2490, 24 April 1871, Page 3

THE CONDITION OF PARIS.

[prom our own correspondent.] , . Paris, February 22. Prussian passports, like kissing, goes by favor. I was enabled to obtain the coveted, permission, enabling mc to travel through the territory, ; occupied by the enemy, with all the facilities enjoyed by German officers, which may be thus summed up : —absolute freedom from the inquisitorial examination of papers, and no changing of carriages or j places. I left Lille something with the feel- | ings of a school-boy returning home dashed ! with the anticipation of finding many alteration, and everything sad; but there was, notwithstanding, the pleasure of arriving at a journey's end, after five months of ups and downs. Lille is a vast bazaar-house of small pox—fifty-five deaths daily—and to judge from the numbers of soldiers to be met with in the streets, with countenances as pitted as unhealed, the authorities must have concealed the extent of the malady. Worse, in many shops, assistants serve the public with the too recent evidences of the disease. Leaving Lille and arriving at Dunkirk, there were the same proofs of war-like measures being at a stand-stilL and the transport of soldiers which has been going on has been dictated more by the necessities of public health than any military combination. There were several ships in the harbor, their cargoes being chiefly live stock and coal—and the greatest activity at work, to expedite the whole to Paris. Calais was as bleak and as blank as ever. Boulogne exhibited traces of animation, and the quays proved that the provisioning of Paris was the chief matter in hand, and above all, coal and fish the articles attended to. In the districts above named, there was not the slightest idea expressed or even imagined for continuing the war. The people demand rest, and no further interruption to business. Two Prussian soldiers, who having fallen asleep in the train from Amiens, on arriving at Boulogne, found themselves of course prisoners, but were " exchanged " the next day. After showing papers at Boulogne, I was allowed to purchase a ticket for Paris —the train was "limited," but every one with a pass, in German as well as French, certifying to their good conduct, was allowed to take a seat —it being well understood that the journey was undertaken at the travellers' own risks and perils. The mail sex constituted the principal passengers, and no luggage was allowed, save what could be carried in the hand. It was at Abbeville that the spiked helmets first appeared—an examination of papers here took place, and a German official took charge of the train—made up of coal waggons, and trucks laden with fish, in addition to a few carriages. Steaming slowly —feeling the way rather—Amiens was in due time reached; on the outskirts of the city were visible the defensive works thrown up last autumn. Here a delay occurred, owing to an accumulation of food trains from Dieppe, and a very rigid stamping of pass- ' ports by German officials, whose offices were opened by the side of those occupied by the French railway clerks. There was a good deal of what appeared to be rough treatment displayed towards the French by their conquerors—possibly it might be all traced to a confusion of tongues. The Teutons seemed to be in strong force in the capital of Picardy, and the few with whom I conversed and knew, were right glad at the prospect of peace being signed and returning home. Over the Oise, two carriages were shot at a time, the broken arches being united by the most rickety of temporary bridges, certain to bring on an attack of the nerves, if looked at by ladies. The train having been again made up, and the German giving a hasty glance, that his prisoners, rather than travellers, were all right, we railed away to St. Denis, where a rigid and final investigation of papers took place, and ultimately arrived in the terminus, where the Custom-house officers had not much to do in examining hand parcels. At St. Denis station, the evidence of the investment was apparent —the view was one of desolation, and everything in a state of sixes and sevens. Houses were empty, without doors L or windows, and the debris of furniture lying about, the marks of a long encampj ment. The German soldiers smoked, lolled, j and laughed—their huge pipes, with very nicely executed landscapes, or pictures of some hero, or their Gretchen, on them, fastened by a cord to the coat. " The inhabitants were very downcast, had a mourning stupefied look, but the Teutons seemed to not notice them and cared very little for the damage done to humble homes. The first thing that strikes you on reaching the streets is the complete absence of cabs, and the rare intervals at which a ' buss passes by. There are plenty of boys and men ready to carry your~baggage or yourself •wherever you please : and there is a crowd of hand-carts and stretchers to contract for the multifarious uses they may be called upon to perform. Next in prominence is the air of lassitude which pervades the citizens, and the terrible quietness of the streets, as if bustle was suppressed by a proclamation, and the occupants of every house were ill with fever. Then the shops—they have a faded look—nothing sprightly in the windows— and every one in four closed. The cafes looked dowdy—the waiters worn out —just as if short of sleep, or over-fatigued. The streets were uncommonly tidy, but the facades of the houses required a cleaning-up. Not a policeman visible—to take your measure in a glance, as in the days of yore, as if he might "want" you subsequently—no private carriages—no waggoners—none of those immense Haussmann trucks, laden with blocks of white stone, the least a ton in weight, and drawn by a tandem of five horses. The provision shops have still more cans and boxes in their windows than food, but then the costennonger's carts are fairly freighted, and roll into every by-way, where thc poor people purchase gladly. What was peculiarly striking, the same class of people seemed to have purses as well filled as ever — and "tossed and examined fish, flesh, and vegetables to make choice, as if the famine had never been sore in the land.. Butte.

appeared to be stiU at famine price—five francs -per lb. _AtLYersailles it costs less than the half of this sum. The restaurants keep up their old habit of high prices. 1 saw in the streets herrings sold for three sous each, for which I was charged sixteen in a restaurant. An orange may be had for four sous outside a tavern door, but becomes twelve on crossing the threshhold. The butchers were busy cleaning up their estabbshments, after being defiled, as coal and other abnormal depots—the brass weights were shining as of yore, and though not full to the roof with meat, the display of legs of mutton in paper, and half-carcasses of oxen, was cheerful. It would seem that not only every day, but : every hour, changes the aspect of the city for the better. The patient has entered the | convalescent stage, thc moment of perfect cure is at hand. The circle of rigorous measures is disappearing like a prisoner. Paris is permitted to see friends ;. the director of the gaol having first prohibited the detenu , from receiving any but unsealed letters, now permits closed communications to be delivered. In a little there will be a perfect liberty. The footways are literally encumbered with mobiles or lignards buying rations of meat, wine, cognac, or armed with loaves instead of chasscpots and piston-rifles. j The sailors are to rejoin their ships forthwith, I as well as marines, and some Mobiles are to be sent home—what they desire—and forms at thc same time, a sterling argument that peace will be made. At night, Paris is next to plunged in darkness, compared to what she has been ; the j streets become deserted at eleven ; the siege may make Parisians adopt the fashion of going to bed early. Coal and wood are very scarce. The cafes are no longer " honored " or disgraced by the presence of the demimonde, decked out in all the gew-gaws of a Paphian ward-robe. It seems as if the Empire had caused the special immoralities it created, and certainly patronised, to be swallowed up in its own ruin. It is time for France to become serious. Several trains of Prussian wounded pass through the city en route for Germany. As a set-off for these " running powers" the French have been allowed to send their own wounded out of the city to the southern and northern districts of the country. I have been informed that the reason why provisions still command high prices is owing to many persons laying in supplies, believing that in the event of the war being continued, the Prussians will do something in the way of starving the citizens into quietness. Some of the large business houses are actively at work, and indeed everyone labors with a will to secure employment~for the thousands of unemployed. I have met with afew old faces, short as has been the period since my arrival. It is with moist eyes that events are alluded to, or thc eloquence limited to a grasp of the hand. The humiliation of the Parisians is complete, and there is a common accord that if sorties had been undertaken earlier in the siege matters would not be as they are. The abuse of Trochu and all the chiefs, military and civil, is frightful. Favre alone has only a good word. As for future revenge, no one talks of this —the defeat is still living, the sufferers feel sore and angry at the break" down of France—do not yet see their way clear, but want'not to be tormented either about generals, politicians, or form of government. They view a barrenness from Dan to Beersheba. Talk to them on any subject—but never name the Napoleon. The ex-Emperor and his wife crowd the print-shop windows in every conceivable form of caricature —from the indecent to the witty. His recent proclamation has been parodied, in most' cases very cleverly. Even copper coins carry his image and superscription in droll effigy. There does not appear to be visible any Imperial insignia in the city—busts and initials of the Brummagen Cassar have quite been swept away. The only souvenir the French will retain of him is compressed into the one word—Sedan. Many families when a bag of coal can be purchased, arrange to have their cooking done by a furnace in common. Indeed the coal merchants are subjected to every form of bribery and corruption—every applicant approaches them, as if they were monarchs of all they surveyed. I found my ancient charbonnier to be now a man of importance and wealth, and solicited rather than ordered a few bags of fuel. He gave directions to furnish mc with double the quantity, adding that I once did him a service. Not knowing the circumstances of his gratitude, I thanked him all the same. But judge when the coal arrived, and the fire began to blaze, the concierge politely asked permission to place her pot an feu thereon —a request at once granted—on condition she would cook, before my eyes, some chops for dejeuner, | which I buy myself. I whispered to my old | butcher this morning that it was to be hoped he has had all his knives and hatchets well scoured, after then: dealings with the horse joints. As for soup—it must be foresworn, except by the late besieged, for ever in Paris. M. Jourdain was surprised in learning he spoke prose all his life without knowing it — possibly hitherto residents in the capital, have been hippophagists for years unawares. As for politics, go to Bordeaux, where everyone is glad to quarter them. Paris has eschewed such things for the moment. But the Palais Royal, Prince Napoleon will be sorry to hear, is now called the Palais National, and is fitting up for President Thiers, whose election is favorably received, as well as the Ministers he has chosen. The coalition between the moderate Republicans and the Orleanists, with Grevy as President of the National Assembly, and the subordina- j tion of the Executive to the Legislative power, ought to make France happy under such a constitutional republic. She cannot afford many more experiments in forms of Government —she has apparently tried all. The sensible men of all parties have resolved to give a strong pull, a long pull, and a pull altogether. Esto pcrpetua. The ultras are unpopular—even Paris, though selecting a batch of them, would be the first to not adopt their doctrines; they will make a noise, thunder away at principalities and powers, denounce aristocrats, popes, and parsons. Society will not be disturbed—it is all barking, no biting.' - Peace is so regarded as a certainty that it would be waste of time speculating on what is no longer a chance. The forms have to be gone through, and the armistice will be pro- : longed. Thiers and Favre are well aware , I what- Bismarck must get, and since these

eminent patriots have not gone into fits, nor lost themselves in tears, the conditions are believed to be at once moderate for Germany and honorable for France. May all be so.