THE WEST COAST.

Press, Volume III, Issue 131, 1 April 1863, Page 1

THE WEST COAST.

The following lettor from Mr. Haast to his Honor tho Superintendent contains full details of his Into expedition to the West Coast: — Mnkarora Bush, March 3, 18G3. Sir—T have the honor to communicate to you that I returned last night, safely with my wholo party, from my expedition to the West Const to this our starting point, having reached the sea on the 20th February. As without doubt it will interest you to become acquainted as soon as possible with thc natural features of the country traversed by mo, till at present entirely unknown, I beg to oflbr you tho following preliminary report, before continuing my researches in anothor direction. From Messrs. Wilkin and Thompson's station on the Molyneux, I travelled along tho shore of Lake Wanaka, as far as the station of Messrs. Stuart, Kinross and Co. Here Mr. W. Young, Assistant Surveyor, joined mo as topographical assistant, who, at my request, had been attached to mc for this expedition by tlie Chief Surveyor. Having ascertained that it would bo impossible to continue my journey overland to tho head of tlie Lake with my horses, I availed myself of the kindness of Mr. 11. S. Thomson, partner of thc said firm, who placed a boat at my disposal during my stay in this part of the country.

In order better to understand what I have to sny in the sequel, it will bo necessary to give a general outline of thc features of Lake Wanaka and of tlie river by wliich it is formed. This beautiful lake, about 27 miles long, and on tho average 2-J- miles broad, much indented, and of which the upper portion for a distance of 2_ miles lies in our province, is formed by a fine river, to which the Maori'name of Makarora has been preserved. This fine lake, quite ditforout by its low position and other features from our other Alpine lake 3, has also tho peculiarity that the river at its entrance,, unlike our other lakes, has not formed any extensive swamps, well grassed hind reaching to tlie very margin of tho water, which, had we no other proof, would be alono evidence of its great depth. Thorc is no doubt that it lies equally in the remarkable rent or fissure in which, in the Province of Otago, tho Molyneux ilows, being in fact its continuation to the north.

Thc Makarora, which during its wholo course runs S.S.W T .* is joined three miles above its entrance into the Lake by another main branch, wliich I called the Wilkin, containing about an equal amount of water as the former river above its junction. Tho valley of the Wilkin, coming from thc central chain, for several miles runs nearly in a W. and E. direction; it then divides in several valleys, of wliich tho most southerly seems to come from the northern continuation of Mount Aspiring or its neighborhood, and tho most northerly to keep a S.E. by S. direction.

Having ascertained in former years from the West Coast Maorics that a pass exists at tho head of Lake Wanaka, by which former generations had travelled across the island, but not being able to gather anything positive about this road from them, I wont on my journey up to tho Waitemate bush to consult an old Maori on the subject, with which I was informed he was well acquainted. From him I heard that the track lay by this latter branch of the Wilkin, and that it would brin? mo in two days to the mouth of the Awarua River on the West Coast j but when on tho spot, and examining the physical features of the country, I was led to thc conclusion that there was some error in his description. Observing at tho same time tlint tlie main chain at the head of the Makarora was singularly broken, I thought that tho remarkable rent, in which also tho Makarora was flowing, might possibly continue through 110 central chain, I determined therefore to cross tho Alps at the Makarora, and tho result has shown that my anticipations havo been verified. We tracked our boat to tho Makarora bush, a distance of seven miles from the Lake, and started from there carrying with us four weeks provisions on our backs.

* All the courses of rivers, &c, aro calculated from the true North, if not stated otherwise.

The valley of tbe Makarora for about 12 miles is li miles broad on the average j to the foot of tlio mountains the vegetation consists of grass nnd scrub, whilst tho rugged mountains on both sides aro clothed with forest from their base to an altitude of 1500 feet, above wliich the rocky pinnacles rise abruptly. On ascending the river further, the deltas of two opposite tributaries meet, covered with forest, and through which tho river pursues its winding course. For two miles this vegetation prevails, ut wliich distance another important stream joins the main river from the cast; tho valley opens again, nnd n Hat of about four miles long occurs, covered with grass, wliich offered us good travelling ground. Above the termination of this open spot the base of tho mountains on both sides approach nearer and nearer, till at a distance of 1 _ miles they form a gorge, tho river rush in jr between immense blocks of rocks, which lie scattered in its channel, nnd on tho mountain sides. Twenty miles v above the mouth of tho Makarora it enters the fissure coming from tho cast in a deep chasm of vertical cliffs from tho central chain, showing by its semi-opaque bluish colour its glacial origin, but the rent still continues in tho same direction, a tributary wliich I havo called tho Fish Stream flowing through it, joining tho Makarora on the entrance of the latter. After half a milo travelling, wo found it impossible to proceed up tho bed of this Btveam, vertical cliffs rising abruptly from tho odgo of tho water, which falls down over immense rocks. Wo were therefore obliged to nscond to a considerable altitude on its eastern bank, and to continue oiu* journey through denso bush along tho steep sides of tho mountains. After travelling for threo miles, partly over very rugged ground, wo again met the Fi-h Stream coming from tho west, nnd still (lowing in a deep and rocky channel; but observing still tho opening before us, wo again went forward in tho same direction, and arrived in nnother milo on tho bank of a very small watercourse, which wo followed for about a milo. Observing that its banks consisted of debris, about 15 feet high, sloping as it seemed to mc to tho north, I ascended, and found to my great satisfaction that the level of tho swampy forest had really a slight fall in that direction. Soon the small wafer holes botweon the sphagnum (swamp moss) increased, a small watercourse was formed, which ran in a northerly direction, and thus a most remarkable pass was found, which in a chain of such magnitudo as the Southorn Alps of New Zealand, and where no break or oven available saddle oceiu-s during thoir conrso north of thispoint in our province, is probably without parallel in the known world. After threo observations on this pass, calculating tho average stand of the barometer at tho sea level, and tho altitude of Lako Wanaka (97. foot) as given hy McKerrow of Otago, with which tny own observations closely correspond, tho altitude of the pass is IGI2 feet abovo tho level of tho sca< or G3B foot above Lako Wanaka. As before stated there is properly speaking no saddle over wliich a traveller has to go, being only obliged to cross from ono watercourse to another, asconding a bank of about 15 feet of looso shinglo thrown across tho rent, and arriving on a flat of very small slope, covered with open forest, which in half-a-milo brings him to another small watercourse flowing north. I may hero add that at this point the mountains on both sides reach their highest elevation, being covered with perpetual snow and glaciers of largo extent. This singular break in tho central chain accounts in a great measure for tho low position of Lako Wanaka, and its fine and peculiar climate, notwithstanding thero is evidence that in tho glacial period glaciers extended also to this lake, as shewn by tho high sloping terraces in the Makarora, cut m the mountain side, to an altitude of at least 5000 feet, besides many other indications. On the evening of January 24th, wo reached a larger stream, which I unmed tho ' Leading Stream,' coining from tho W., being soon joined by several tributaries from tho E. For three miles we followed this stream, flowing in a N.N.E. direction through a comparatively open valloy, with occasional Small patches of grass on its sides, and arrived at its junction with a larger stream of glacial origin of the size of tho Makarora which came from the eastern control cliain, and to which, after your direction, I gave my name. Next day, accompanied by Mr. Young, I ascended the mountain, which I named Mount Brewster, as a topographical station' and for geological examination, the glaciers of which give rise to tho 'Haast.' Makaroa, aud Hunter, the latter forming tho head waters of Lake Hawea, I may here state that all glaciers, v far as 1 have observed them, on the westorn side of the Alps, belong to tlie second order, the mountain sides being very abrupt, %nd the valleys short and steep. On tho slopes of Mount Brewster, from an -altitude of about 6000 feet, we hod a most magnificent and extensive view over the Alps, from Lake Wanaka in the south, to the Moorhouso range in the north-east, as far os the coast ranges, and it wo» with no little pleasure that I recognised many peaks in the central chains, which I had observed near the sources of the rivers forming Lakes Ohou, and Pukaki, being thus enabled to connect last year's survey with the present. It became evident to mc, looking over the largo extent of country drained, that the river before it reaches the east coast must bo very considerable j and another

peculiar feature concerning the Alps was revealed, to which I shall devote n few words. From thc Bouses of the Rakaia to the southern termination of the Moorhouso range, the Alps consist of one mam chain, sending oil* divergent chains which become gradually lower • but here a change occurs; at the southern end of the Moorhouse range, the Alps divide into two almost equal chains, of which the eastern ono extends along the western bank of the Hopkins to Mount "Ward, from whence it turns in a S.W. by W. direction towards Mount Brewster. On thc western side of the fissure, the continuation of Mount Brcw.-ter is to be found in Mount Stuart on the western side of the Makarora. The western chain of the Alps commence also at the end of the Moorhouse range, which latter, near the sources of* the Hopkins, loses considerable in altitude, but afterwards rises again to a great height, being formed by a xnngniiiccnt range which I called tho Gray Range. It runs iv a S.W. direction, till it is broken through by tho main river after tho junction of thcClurk, the broad valley of thc hitter occupying the space or bason between these two Alpine chains. After this second break on the left side of the river, the Alps again rise to a considerable altitude, covered with perpetual snow, and which ns it seemed united again at Mount Stuart, running down in ono longitudinal chain towards Mount Aspiring, tho southern point of our boundary, but it is notwithstanding true that the Alps, south of the Moorhouso range, begin to lose their continuity, being broken in sharp pyrainidieal peaks, seldom attaining un altitude of 10,000 feet, with dcop but generally inaccessible saddles I between them.

When returning on the evening of thc 2Gth January from our mountain ascent, heavy rain set in, which continued almo.-t without intermission till February 13th, and during wliich time, under many difficulties, we were üblo to advance only 11 miles down tho river, watching a favourable opportunity when tho river fell to cross from one side to the other, when necessary. This part of ,our journey occurred unfortunately at the same time when wo crossed the most inaccessible part ,of oiu* route, being in fact thc most rugged piece of'-Now.Zealand ground over which, during my long wanderings, 1 over passed before. Jbrom tbe junction of thc leading stream with tho Hnnst, the valley of the latter is still so broad and tho fall of the water comparatively slight, that rapids tiro formed, allowing us to follow the riverbeds, crossing and ..crossing from side to sidebut then it seems as if the river had cut across the range, both mountain sides presenting exceedingly steep elopes, whilst thc river at tho same time eon- . tinuos to flow in a succession of fa Is and cataracts, wliich continue for übout 6 miles. On both sides of the river tho rocks riso perpendicular, and the email channel through which the water finds its way is still encumbered by enormous rocks, often several tons in. weight, amongst and over which the river falls roaring and foaming. At tho same time the mountain sides, which wo were continually obliged to ascend and descend, for many 'hundred ieet, were partly covered with blocks of rock of equal, magnitude, the largo fissures between them often overgrown with moss and roots, the latter sometimes rotten, bo that a hasty step threw tlie heedless between tho fissures, giving him great trouble te extricato hinuelf. No level place of sufficient size tp pitch our tent was hero to bo found, either on the hill side or in the river bed, except in places liable to bo flooded, as, to our discomfiture, wo found out on this occasion during the night. Amongst other curious places we were camped for eight days under an enormous overhanging rook, with a vertical precipice cf 150 feet near us, and the thundering mid deafening roar of the swollen main river, forming hero a largo fall as its companion. Thogcneral diroctionof the river afterits entrance into the fissure is for 5 miles N.N.W., after which it is joined by another river of considerable size, •wliich I liave named tho " Wills," coining with a W.S.W. course from Mount Ward. As it was impossible to cross this river, even in fine weather, being very deep, we had to watch an opportunity to cross to the left bank of tho main river, above the junction of tho Wills. From this point, we travelled for Gi miles in a N.W. direction, steep mountain sides, . vertical cliffs, waterfalls and cataracts, enlarged by the heavy fresh, being still tho usual features of tho country. But we could already obscrvo that wo came to lower regions, totara, rimu, uwtai (black pine), often of fine size, beenmo mixed with the fagus (black birch) forest, which hitherto, without intermission, clothed the mountain sides. Fern trees soon made their appearance, forming small groves in tho deep moist valleys, aud which, considering we were still in tho heart of tho Alps, gave a strange aspect to the scenery around us.

At last wo loft this region of rocks, precipices nnd cascades behind.us, and a, fine river entered from the W.S.W., wliich I called the "Burke" Wo reacheil tho confluence of it on the evening of February 12; fine weuther sot in at last, and the barometer showed mc that we were only 250 or 300 feet above the sea level. Tho River Burke is broad and deep, and has a slow course at its junction, Uie main river, the fall of which is more rapid, having as at the Wills thrown a bar aero« its entrance, by which tho level of these tributaries has been raised. From tliis spot a most nm-mi-iicentnew oyer tho southern termination of 'the distant Moorhouso and Gray ranges was obtained, the moro beautiful, M tho range* on both sides of ™ I C °; orodilsru4retoforo toanaltitude IS-T **"*» md thc consisted of fine pine trees, which lower down tlie raUey grow on tho bank of tho main river It was oidy on tlio morning of Februlrv Uth that wo were able to continue our joW. /. c passable, and the mam river above its Junction after several trials, we also found still too Sh _ be crossed; wo had just finished mS- f«.l maran of dead trees to cross the Burti i. P.J" sticks being obtainable to make a inoHM «* I safely. After the junction of the Bnrke \ecoiS changes again, the river running for 7 miles kTa

N.E. direction ; thc valley opens more, and the fall of the water is much less, offering good fords, so as to allow us to uf?e the shingle banks to travel on. Now and then small grass patches of a few acres in extent appear. It was towards tbe middle of thc day when we observed that the river before its junction with another large river, namely, thc Clarke, set against its left bank, keeping* dose under vertical cliffs to this junction, and that afterwards the united waters continued to flow in the same way. I determined therefore to cross this important river above the junction, but when we came to its shingle bed, which is here about a mile and a half broad, we found the water of thc first branch much discoloured. The day being hot and the sky cloudless, I mistook this occurrence for thc usual discolouring of a glacial stream near its source, from the effects of a hot day ; we therefore proceeded, and after some difficulty found a ford over this first branch, but branch after branch succeeded, each one larger than the former, mid it was near evening when we were trying to cross the lust branch which proved to be the largest ; several times we failed, but at last succeeded. Although we crossed in the Maori fashion, with a long pole between us, two of my party were washed away when near the opposite bank, and had to swim to shore with their loads on their backs. Had I not taken the precaution to have none but experienced swimmers in my r party, a sad accident might here have happened. As I afterwards discovered, the river at our first, crossing had been still in a state of fresh, and although on returning from the West Coast wo found tlie water low and clear, thc river, according to marks set, having fallen considerably, wo had still to cross it in five branches, sonic of them very deep, broad, and swift. Tho size of this important river, which drains the Southern Alps, from opposite the 1 Midler glacier to the N.W. slopes of Mount Ward, is at least equal to that of tho Rakaia in the plains. Its valley is about two miles broad, which, six miles above *tho junction, is divided into two main branches; on its western bank a fine grass flat occurs, about 1000 acres in extent, where wo camped, and which is a real oasis in this constant wilderness of forest. This is without doubt, thc open grass country of which some old Muori spoke to mc as existing in the interior, judging its value not, byits extent, but by the' great number of weka's (wood-hens) and kakapos (ground parrots), which up to the time of our arrival had here enjoyed an undisturbed existence, and which constitutes this spot, a true Maori Elysium.

After travelling two miles over this open grass flat, we again arrived on the bank of thc river, below the junction, being here divided into two branches. Although the mountains on both sides continued to be very high and covered with snow, from whioh numerous waterfalls descend, the river has now a much slower course, being, when flowing in one stream, 300 to .00 feet broad, and